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  2. Parmigiani Fleurier is a relatively young brand as Swiss fine watchmaking houses go; the firm was founded in 1996, but quickly established a reputation for making very high quality watches with a distinctive design vocabulary that's rooted in elements of Classical architecture. The first watch produced by Parmigiani Fleurier was the Toric Memory Time (which we saw in June of last year on the wrist of founder Michel Parmigiani) and in recent years, the Toric case shape has been a vehicle for both highly complicated watches, and simpler time-and-date timepieces – the latter are offered with chronometer certification from the COSC (the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, which is responsible for the certification of watches as chronometers in Switzerland). The original Toric Memory Time, 1996. The COSC is probably the best known of the Swiss certification and control programs for wristwatches, either independent or brand-administered; however there are others. One was established in 2004 by watchmaking firms in Fleurier, Switzerland: Chopard, Bovet, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Manufacture Vaucher. This is the Foundation Qualité Fleurier (FQF), whose certification has been used on specific models by the founding brands, and which is also open to any Swiss watchmaker (not just those headquartered in Fleurier). The FQF's control and certification tests include certification by the COSC, but also include a battery of other tests, and Parmigiani Fleurier is now offering its Toric wristwatch with FQF certification. The Toric Qualité Fleurier. Initial Thoughts The Toric family of watches are, of all Parmigiani's collections, perhaps most strongly identified with the brand and the combination of the FQF certification with this design is a logical and attractive integration of the design with a Fleurier-centered external control – given the overall level of watchmaking at Parmigiani Fleurier, the certification is perhaps slightly a formality in certain respects but it's still an affirmation of the horological terroir of the region, as well as symbolically important. FQF certification consists of five requirements: two are stipulations regarding place of manufacture and quality of materials, and the remaining three are actual tests. First, the watch must be "entirely designed, produced, assembled and tested in Switzerland, with each component accompanied by a certificate of origin. This criterion substantially exceeds the requirements of the widely used 'Swiss Made' label, which can be met without meaningful testing provided 60% of the watch head has been produced in Switzerland." Second, only traditional materials may be used (plastics are forbidden). Third, the movement is certified by the COSC as a chronometer. The fourth and fifth tests are the Chronofiable test, and the Fleuritest. The first simulates six month's wear and tear, including manipulation of the crown and pushers (if any) as well as reliability under exposure to magnetism, moisture, and shocks. The Fleuritest is a 24 hour simulated wear test, using a unique machine that simulates the movement of a watch through the day in daily use; to pass, accuracy must be within a tolerance of 0/+5 seconds per day. All this aside, the Toric Qualité Fleurier looks to be a very handsome watch, with a hand-engraved (not stamped) bezel and engine turned dial. It's a watch that, at $23,500, will appeal to anyone looking for a high-grade, chronometer certified Swiss watch that's a bit off the beaten track from the usual suspects, and which is perhaps more obviously a high-craft object than similarly priced watches from some of Parmigiani Fleurier's competitors. If you happen to have an opportunity to see one in person, it's worth making the time to do so – it's been my experience that the Toric watches are much better evaluated in person than in photographs. The Basics Brand: Parmigiani Fleurier Model: Toric Qualité Fleurier Reference Number: PFC422-1200100-HA1441, PFC422-1600100-HA1441 Diameter: 40.8mm Thickness: 9.5mm Case Material: 18k red or white gold Dial Color: Silver; "rice grain" guilloché Indexes: 18k rose gold Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Alligator strap made by Hermès The caliber PF331-QF, as found in the Toric Qualité Fleurier. The Movement Caliber: PF331-QF Functions: Time and date Diameter: 11.5 ‴ (approximately 25.6mm) Thickness: 3.5mm Power Reserve: 55 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph) Jewels: 32 COSC Chronometer Certified and Qualité Fleurier Certified Pricing & Availability Price: $24,500 Availability: Now available
  3. There are certain watches that have become legends of sorts amongst collectors and enthusiasts. One watch that is indisputably in that category is the Breitling Emergency. The watch is powered by an extremely accurate quartz movement and has a combination analog/digital display, but what really sets it apart is the concealed emergency locator beacon that is hidden behind a screw-down cap in the lower right lug. There have been a handful of stories about this unique watch actually being used in the field to save lives, but for most owners this feature remains dormant and unutilized for the duration of the watch's life. The result is that the specifics of exactly how this watch works can be a little confusing. Luckily, we've got Mr. Jason Heaton on our side, and he is a proud Emergency owner himself. The model he wears is the Emergency Orbiter 3, a special edition made in 2000 to commemorate the first non-stop circumnavigation of the Earth in a balloon. Like we said, this is a specific watch for a specific sort of person. In his in-depth report, Jason goes into the history of the watch, how it works technically, and why it's something anyone horologically inclined can and should appreciate. Even if you're not someone who find himself or herself out in the wilderness too much, this ought to get your blood pumping.
  4. EdgyGuyJide

    TUDOR 1926

    ORIGINS OF THE ROSE 1926 was a landmark year in the history of Tudor. The brand pays homage to this important date with a new collection of automatic steel timepieces at a reasonable price. Almost one century ago, in 1926, “The Tudor“ brand was registered in the name of Hans Wildorf (1881-1960), the founder of Rolex. In 1936 Rolex took over the brand and founded the Tudor Watch company in 1946. The brief for this new brand of watches was very clear: to design products of an equally high quality as Rolex models, but at more affordable prices. A promise that has been kept over time, as can be seen in the 1926 collection launched at Baselworld last March. This new family, named after Tudor’s launch year, is aimed at both men and women. It also caters for both slender and very robust wrists with four different steel case sizes (28, 36, 39 and 41mm). Some models adopt the two-colour trend that has been back in fashion for a few years now, dressing the bezel, crown and features such as the leaf-shaped hands and hour markers in rose gold. The dial is available in three fairly traditional colours: black, opaline and silver. At the centre there is an embossed pattern, a kind of counter-relief check, encircled by the smooth ring containing the minute track. The hour markers also vary in shape (Arabic numerals for the even numbers with triangular markers or brilliant-cut diamonds) and in colour (golden, silver or blue). Two self-winding movements drive the time functions (hours, minutes, seconds in the centre) and the calendar (date at 3 o’clock) in the 1926 watches: the calibre 2824 for the 36, 39 and 41mm models and the 2671 for the smallest version, supplying a power reserve of 38 hours. Price from 1,600 CHF to 2,750 CHF
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  6. kendraallen

    Cheap "Raketa"s on ebay?

    check out the list of some best branded watches hope you will like it best mens watches under 200
  7. kendraallen

    Cheap "Raketa"s on ebay?

    nice sharing!!
  8. I recently purchased this Poljot "31659" Sturmanskie Aviator from a seller in Belarus. It was advertised as serviced, and I must confess is keeping very good time. I understand that the hacking versions have stainless cases and a fixed inner bezel with no crown at the 9 o`clock position. All the versions that I have seen online have a circular dot above the 12, and it is only the civilian models 3133, that have the triangle above the 12. This would suggest that this watch has been modified at some stage. If this assumption is correct, does anyone know how easy it is to change over the inner bezel ? Any information would be much appreciated.
  9. Movado Group has entered into an agreement to acquire MVMT, the popular, millennial-focused watch and accessories brand, for $100 million, or approximately "85 million net of tax benefits," Movado said in a press release. This is in addition to two future payments that could add up to an additional $100 million before tax benefits, depending on MVMT's future performance as part of Movado's portfolio. MVMT was founded in 2013 by Jacob Kassan and Kramer LaPlante, two California-based twenty-somethings who had a vision to sell affordable, stylish watches to people their own age. It's hard to argue with the success of that vision. Last year, MVMT achieved revenue of approximately $71 million, largely through a direct-to-consumer business model. Kassan and LaPlante will continue to operate MVMT under the structure of the deal. MVMT watches for men and women. "The acquisition of MVMT will provide us greater access to millennials and advances our Digital Center of Excellence initiative with the addition of a powerful brand managed by a successful team of highly creative, passionate and talented individuals," Movado Chairman and CEO Efraim Grinberg said in a statement. In addition to its namesake Movado brand, the group also owns Ebel and Concord, and holds licensing rights to make watches for several fashion marques, among them Lacoste, Tommy Hilfiger and Hugo Boss.
  10. What you see here is the latest in a line of watch collaborations between the New York-based American menswear designer (and HODINKEE Radio guest) Todd Snyder and Timex, arguably the best-known American-based watchmaker today. The design of this watch has been inspired by Snyder's visits to the extensive Timex archives, to which Snyder, as he said in his aforementioned 'Dink Radio appearance earlier this week, enjoys special access. What we have here is a 40mm quartz timepiece in stainless steel with two vintage (Timex says 1960s) inspired dial executions, one in cream and the other in black. Both have lots of lume on the hour markers as well as on the hour and minute hands, ensuring good legibility when transitioning from light to dark. And because this is Timex, the dial itself lights up thanks to Indiglo, which can be activated by pushing and holding the crown down. The straps feature quick-release pins, enabling easy strap changes too. Initial Thoughts While the innards of the watch in question are straightforward Timex quartz, the design is what makes this watch interesting and fun, particularly when you take into account the fact that it will set you back just $158. On unboxing these watches to write about them, I was impressed with their looks, and even more so when I read far enough down the press release to discover the price. Does the fact that there are tachymeter and telemeter scales on this watch with the absence of a chronograph bother me? A little, I guess. These are scales that belong on chronographs – not simple three handers – but this is a watch that is all about striking a certain look, and makes no claims about functioning as a proper tool watch. Its water resistance is 30 meters, after all. I wore the black version around the office for an hour or two, and it felt very nice on the wrist. I could see putting this guy on a great looking NATO strap and sliding it into my rotation through the end of summer and early fall. It's a fun watch with a cool design that won't cost you much – and sometimes that's plenty. The Basics Brand: Timex Model: Timex X Todd Snyder Beekman Watch Diameter: 40mm Thickness: 12mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Classic cream or brown Indexes: Numerals and hour markers Lume: Indiglo Night Light Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap The Movement Caliber: Quartz movement Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds Pricing & Availability Price: $158 Availability: From today at Todd Snyder's New York City flagship store at at toddsnyder.com
  11. MUSEUM STATE-OF-THE-ARTNESS Omega breathes new life into the first wrist-chronograph ever assembled in the manufacture by proposing its 1913-created model with a cutting-edge twist. Explanations. Riding the wave of everything vintage, the watchmaking industry has invited us to discover a myriad of limited series combining a case embracing the stylistic codes of a historic model, to a greater or lesser extent, and an ultra up-to-the-minute movement. Omega has reversed the trend by presenting a genuine timepiece from its original collection. With its First Omega Wrist-Chronograph Limited Edition, the brand reveals a watch incorporating a real hand-wound mechanical movement from 1913. The eighteen 18”’ CHRO calibres, equipped with a Breguet balance-spring, which make up this limited edition come from timepieces retrieved from the vaults of the brand’s museum. All were meticulously hand-restored pursuant to the rules of the craft and integrated into a 47.5 mm-diameter case which hosts cutting-edge components. To complement the white gold, SednaTM gold has been used on the crown and on the push-piece set at 6 o’clock. This alloy, comprising 75% gold, copper and palladium, stands out with its reddish colouring and enhanced durability. The case has been crafted with another exclusivity – a hinged back which, when opened, majestically reveals the calibre’s workings through the sapphire-crystal caseback. The white enamel dial is crafted with details inspired by yesteryear’s pilot watches. Large hollowed-out Arabic numerals are brushed over by blued Empire-style hands. A 15-minute chronograph counter housed at 2 o’clock offers highly-legible, easily-measured short-cycle time data. The 18 pieces of this limited series are delivered in a magnificent leather case along with two additional leather straps and useful tools for screwing and unscrewing the rivets which attach the straps to the lugs. Price: CHF130,000 omegawatches.com
  12. As a sort of 185th birthday present to itself and 50 of the brand's closest friends, Jaeger-LeCoultre has announced the Reverso Tribute Tourbillon Duoface, an ornate and limited edition expression of the brand's quintessential design. Not unlike the recent Reverso Tribute Gyotourbillon, this new model combines JLC's iconic Reverso design with a hit of their finest haute horology abilities. Initial Thoughts Unlike the Tribute Gyrotourbillon, the Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon uses a smaller Reverso case size, coming in at 27.4mm wide, 45.5 lug to lug, and just 9.15mm thick, despite sporting a flying tourbillon and the Duoface layout. For reference, that is smaller in every dimension compared to a standard Reverso Classic Large Duoface. Employing the new JLC caliber 847, the Reverso Tribute Tourbillon Duoface has a sixty-second flying tourbillon, which functions as a seconds display, alongside the Duoface functionality that allows the single movement to show a different time zone on each face. While certainly not new, I've always found this to be a clever use of the Reverso format and by the design's very nature it means you get two different watches in one. Much like with past top-tier Reverso models, JLC has opted for one more classic and elegant dial, and on the inverse, one that is much more ornate. While available photos are very limited (I included all that are available here), both dials look great. Furthermore, while I don't generally care for tourbillons, this one does rather suit the vibe of such an ornate Reverso. Limited to just 50 pieces, the Reverso Tribute Tourbillon Duoface carries a list price of $123,000. With so few being made and at such a considerable cost, it's doubtful this will be anyone's first JLC and only the most hardcore of Reverso fans need apply. The Basics Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre Model: Reverso Tribute Tourbillon Duoface Reference Number: Q3926480 Diameter: 27.4mm (45.5mm lug to lug) Thickness: 9.15mm Case Material: Platinum Dial Color: Blue Silver Water Resistance: 30m Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap The Movement Caliber: Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 847 Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon (with seconds), second time zone, day/night indication. Winding: Manually-wound Pricing & Availability Price: $123,000 Limited Edition: 50 pieces
  13. Ming, a Malaysia-based micro brand that manufactures watches in Switzerland, has been around for only a single year, but in that time it's made a name for itself among the horological cognoscenti through great word-of-mouth and by producing watches of unimpeachable value proposition, such as the $900 17.01 manual-wind, time-only watch. Ming was formed by six passionate watch collectors and is spearheaded by its namesake, Ming Thein. A physicist by training, Thein wears, and has worn, several hats besides running his year-old watch venture. He's a commercial photographer, the chief of strategy at Hasselblad, and a former M&A and private equity guy. And, of course, he's a watch collector. In its young life, Ming Watches has already released three core references: the time-only 17.01, the 19.01 with an upgraded 100-hour mechanical movement via Schwarz-Etienne, and the 17.03 GMT. In celebration of reaching the one-year mark in business, Ming is introducing two limited edition versions of its Sellita-based GMT. Technically speaking, these watches are very similar to the 17.03 that Jack first wrote about in February. The more interesting of the new limited editions is 17.03 Ultra Blue, which comes with a stunning grade 2 titanium case blued by hand by Ming Thein himself. Because each of these 25 pieces is blued by hand, no two are exactly the same, and will evince varying shades of purple, cyan, and dark blue. The crowns are hand engraved, and the luminous blue sector dial is fitted with Super-LumiNova-filled hands. Each watch comes with one Jean Rousseau Alcantara strap with a matching heat-blued titanium buckle. Ming includes two additional nubuck straps (anthracite and dark chocolate) as well as a travel pouch supplied by ThirtyFour Bespoke of Kuala Lumpur. Unfortunately, according to Ming, there's already a waiting list to get one of these watches. The Ming 17.03 Ultra Blue case is heat blued by hand by Ming Thein himself. The second limited edition, of which 125 will be made, is the Ming 17.03 Blue. With its standard grade 2 titanium case, it's decidedly less "Ultra" than the other new limited edition, but there is an option for a titanium quick-release bracelet. It also comes with two nubuck straps and a pouch by ThirtyFour Bespoke. Orders for these 125 pieces can be placed directly through Ming online starting today. Initial Thoughts The Ming 17.03 Blue has a more conventional grade 2 titanium case. From the moment I first saw a Ming watch about a year ago, when it was on Jack's desk for a review, the design caught my eye. If you look carefully at these watches, something you are bound to do if you end up buying one and wearing it, then you start to see the levels of detail that are built upon each other. I was impressed with – and I mean this as no slight to either brand – a look that struck me as something Laurent Ferrier might make if he were interested in crafting an affordable, ETA-based watch. The Ultra Blue is such an interesting watch because it is so unusual as to be unique in its price segment. Who else has made a blue metal case that looks anything like the Ultra Blue? DeBethune, perhaps? Alas, the Ultra Blue, with its CHF 2,500 price tag and limitation to 25 pieces, has already filled up its waiting list, so chances are you won't be getting one if you are reading this post. The 17.03 Blue, however, is available, and orders will be taken starting today. The Basics Brand: Ming Model: 17.03 GMT Ultra Blue and Blue Diameter: 38mm Thickness: 9.8mm Case Material: Fire blued grade 2 titanium or plain grade 2 titanium Dial Color: Blue Indexes: Luminous sector dial Lume: Hand and sector dial track Water Resistance: 100-meter water resistance Strap/Bracelet: 17.03 Ultra Blue: Jean Rousseau alcantara strap, nubuck strap with matching heat-blued buckle, two nubuck straps; 17.03 Blue: two nubuck straps and optional grade 2 titanium bracelet The sector dial is formed by luminous hour numerals connected to the track. The Movement Caliber: Sellita SW 330-1 GMT, top grade Functions: Hours, minutes, GMT Diameter: 25.6mm Power Reserve: 42 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph) Jewels: 25 Additional Details: While not chronometer certified, these movements are adjusted in five positions and subjected to a 250-hour internal testing program Pricing & Availability Price: CHF 2,500 (17.03 Ultra Blue:), CHF 1,525 (17.03 Blue with two straps), CHF 1,825 (17.03 Blue with two straps and matching bracelet) Availability: Available today (though the 17.03 Ultra Blue already has a waitlist) Limited Edition: 25 pieces (17.03 Ultra Blue), 125 pieces (17.03 Blue)
  14. PROTECTING THE DEEP SEA The brand is continuing its promise to support oceanic research with a limited series. The project’s third outing has just launched. The idea is simple. 1000 EUR of every watch sold is donated to support science expeditions. Just like the first edition that launched 4 years ago in 2016, Blancpain brings us 250 Fifty Fathoms watches for its Ocean Commitment project. The first two limited series were flyback chronographs but this time the manufacture wanted the new piece to be more in keeping with the original model from 1953. That means the reappearance of a 40mm steel case that’s water-resistant to depths of 300m. The time information is very clear. The chunky luminescent hands glide over a deep blue dial and track luminescent markers. The genuine diving tool features a unidirectional bezel so divers can see their dive time. A date display at 4.40 and the project logo at 6 completes the underwater picture. This year’s Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment III is powered by the 1151 calibre. This self-winding mechanical movement provides a comfortable 4-day power reserve. Anyone who buys one of these models joins the Blancpain Ocean Commitment Circle so you can take part in exclusive events and conferences about the science expeditions funded by the brand. It’s worth mentioning that this model comes with two straps: a sail canvas one and a NATO one. Price: 16,000 CHF blancpain.com
  15. This isn't exactly breaking news, but chronographs have become more and more popular with each passing year. Depending on which retailer you ask, you might even hear that they're outselling simpler time-only or time-and-date watches in some cases. The catch here is that finding an excellent chronograph on a more restrained budget can be challenging, as in-house chronograph movements are rare and often even ébauche-based chronographs are experiencing price creep. But, fear not, there are plenty of good options out there, and our editors have rounded up five that they think offer great value for money, compelling styling, and something to set them apart from the competition. Cara Barrett – Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph One chronograph that slipped through the cracks this year was the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph. The 1858 Automatic chronograph has a 42mm stainless steel case with round pushers and a dramatic black dial. The Arabic numerals are reminiscent of decades past and really add to the vintage flavor of this watch. The movement is the Sellita SW500, which is a reliable movement that is a good choice at this price point. It's attractive, well-made, and reliable, which is all you can really ask for in a chronograph. If you are feeling really fancy, you can splurge on the bronze version with a champagne dial for a few hundred dollars more. From $4,300; montblanc.com Jon Bues – Omega Speedmaster CK 2998 Pulsometer Any list such as this one that doesn't take a good hard look at current year Omega Speedmasters is, in my opinion, incomplete. Sure, this watch isn't totally brand new – it's the 2018 version of a popular series of vintage inspired limited-edition Speedies, this time with a pulsometer – but it does manage to channel and champion the purity and instrumentality that have long made the Omega Speedmaster a favorite of watch lovers. Not only could the CK 2998 Pulsometer be your only chronograph, it could also be your only watch, and you'd be doing just fine. It's a beautiful object tied to a wonderful and important chronograph lineage, and it's well under our $10,000 limit. $6,500; omegawatches.com Jack Forster – Habring² Doppel-Felix Split-Seconds Chronograph It's hard to argue with the Omega Speedmaster Professional as a perennial favorite for best chrono under $10,000 although it is – and this is a good thing – a field that currently has quite a few exciting possibilities, including the new Tudor Black Bay Chronograph, a number of pieces from Sinn, and many others. However, one of my personal favorites right now is the Habring2 Doppel-Felix Split-Seconds, which has an in-house rattrapante movement (based on the 7750 in broad outline, but drastically unlike anything you can get stock from ETA) and a really wonderful design that represents, I think, a lovely new direction for Habring. The great cosmetics aside, the movement is a real star here – beautifully designed and executed, and at this price, with no real competition. €7,750 (no date) and €8,250 (with date); habring2.com James Stacey – Sinn 103 SA BE LE While I'm really not a chronograph guy, in considering recently released options I really liked Sinn's Limited Edition 103 Sa B E. With a bright sunburst blue dial, lightly tanned lume, and a rich blue aluminum bezel, this 41mm chronograph looks great, especially on a creamy leather strap. The watch is limited to 500 units, and the 7750 ticking within is certainly not fancy, but the 103 Sa BE is a Sinn, so that conventional movement is put to work in a handsome and tough-as-nails watch that is entirely ready for everyday wear. $2,600; sinn.de Stephen Pulvirent – Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 Breitling is a brand that tends to elicit strong reactions from collectors. I have to admit, I haven't been the biggest fan of much of the brand's catalog over the last few years, but the Navitimer 8 B01 is a beacon of hope that we might be seeing something a little different under new leadership. The watch starts with Breitling's most famous chronograph as its foundation, but what we end up with in the end is a totally modern sports watch with an in-house movement and an appropriate dose of vintage style. The Navitimer 8 B01 doesn't go overboard with the heritage, instead keeping things simple and relying on the bold-yet-easy-going looks to catch your attention. This is a no-BS chrono with some real pedigree. From $7,600; breitling.com
  16. THE MOON CLOSE AT HAND Nearly two years after the launch of the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène, Parmigiani innovates by providing this poetic timepiece with a bouquet of stars. In 2016, Parmigiani, the watchmakers based in Fleurier, in the Swiss municipality of Val-de-Travers, introduced the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène. Its visually striking blue dial, decorated with a floral, mother-of-pearl motif, displayed an elegant moon phase in its upper part. Today, the brand has released a much more feminine and lyrical version of the timepiece: the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène Galaxy. While aesthetically the layout of the counters on the screen and the details that are the hallmarks of Parmigiani have stayed the same, the watch itself looks very different to its older sibling. The deep blue aventurine dial is inset with golden sequins, evoking a night sky scattered with stars. Two open-work Delta-shaped hands move around an hour rim featuring triangular, golden appliques to discreetly display the hours and minutes. A running seconds sub-dial with a crescent-moon-shaped counterweight follows a pearled circular scale. The lower part of the sub-dial opens onto a large date counter. Opposite, at 12 o’clock, a majestic moon phase holds sway. The copper-coloured queen of the night, partially hidden behind a navy-blue cloud, has a smooth surface where its famous craters are set. The various functions are driven by the calibre PF318, a mechanical movement running at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vibrations an hour) and with a double barrel (50 hours of autonomy). The mechanism is housed in a 33mm steel case topped with 72 diamonds that light up this watchmaking galaxy with their bright fires. Price: 16,200 CHF
  17. EdgyGuyJide


    WATER AWAKENING The brand celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Memovox with the launch of the new Polaris collection. All the original attractions are preserved, including the alarm function. 1968. Young people came together, determined to change the world. The same year, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled its revolutionary watch. The Memovox was the first diving watch with an alarm function to alert divers during underwater excursions. Fifty years later, the manufacture has given a new life to this iconic watch with a series limited to 1,000 pieces that will be joining the brand-new Polaris collection to be launched at the SIHH (Salon de la Haute Horlogerie) in Geneva in January. Like the original model, this version features three crowns on a 42-mm-wide steel case. The upper crown is used to set the alarm. The middle one adjusts the revolving inner bezel. And the lower crown moves the hour and minute hands to set the time. On the dial, the original spirit is preserved with a wealth of vintage details, such as the trapezium-shaped indices or vanilla-tinted Super-LumiNova® on all the dial’s elements. The triangle showing the alarm is still on a rotating central disc. It can be set very easily to the time you wish using the crown. A sub-dial at 3 o’clock displays the date. The Polaris Memovox is driven by an automatic mechanical movement, the calibre 956, providing 44 hours of power reserve. This diver’s watch is watertight down to 200m. It is worn with a rubber strap featuring an original folding clasp for greater comfort on land and in the sea. Price: 12,800 EUR www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
  18. VISUAL EMOTION Prepare to be blown away when expertise, daring and creativity set the scene for a limitless watchmaking playground! There’s usually just one step separating architecture and art but the success of a project depends on its ability to enhance a design. Jaeger-LeCoultre has certainly pulled it off with the Hybris Artistica Mystérieuse. The first thing that blows you away when you see the timepiece is the dial’s glittering aventurine disc delicately covered by an openwork mother-of-pearl rosette. A majestic flying tourbillon appears to be the only thing alive on this incredible composition. Where have the hands gone? The Sentier manufacture’s watchmakers have really showcased their ingenuity here! The dial is actually made up of two rotating discs and the one in the centre houses the tourbillon with the position of the complication providing the hours. The second disc on the chapter ring has an understated gilded triangle tracking the minutes. This impressive layout is fuelled by a self-winding movement containing 441 parts. The in-house 941 calibre provides a 50-hour power reserve from inside the 42mm case. Just like the dial, delicate rose gold embroidery wraps around the semi-precious stone on its sides and lugs. The sapphire back unveils a rotor that has been openworked by hand following countless painstaking operations. The Hybris Artistica Mystérieuse is ultra-limited edition with just 5 available. It comes with a black leather strap and rose gold deployment clasp. Price: €384,000 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
  19. The Ryder Cup, a biennial tournament that pits Europe's greatest golfers against those from America, is one of the biggest events in the sport of golf. In a sport that is as thoroughly individual as they come, it stands out for its ability to make teammates of rivals. Through a partnership with the PGA Tour of America, Omega is the official timekeeper of the Ryder Cup when it is played in the States, in addition to being the official watch chosen by the U.S. team. In the lead up to the next Ryder Cup, which starts September 28 in France, Omega has released its official Ryder Cup watch in the form of specially branded 41mm Seamaster Aqua Terra. This is the Seamaster Aqua Terra that readers are likely already familiar with: It comes with a stainless steel case and a highly antimagnetic movement that has been certified as a Master Chronometer. But there are also some notable differences. The dial, strap, and caseback have gold accents. The end links of the strap, the Omega applied logo, and the central seconds hand are made from 18k gold, while the case back has a 24k gold rendering of the Ryder Cup logo applied to its surface. The watch comes in the presentation box pictured here, along with a Ryder Cup travel pouch and a stainless steel bracelet. Initial Thoughts The Aqua Terra, like most of Omega's entry level range that has been upgraded to include its Master Chronometer movements, is a fantastic watchmaking value. These Co-Axial calibers are among some of the most technologically advanced examples of mechanical watchmaking at scale that you are going to find anywhere. In its most basic form, this Aqua Terra model is $5,400 on a strap and $5,500 on a steel bracelet. When you consider that this watch, at $5,950, comes with both the strap (with end links upgraded from steel to 18k gold) and the bracelet, in addition to other accents that tie it to the Ryder Cup, this watch feels more like an honest olive branch to watch lovers who also love golf and less like your run-of-the-mill limited edition cash grab. The original Aqua Terra is a cool watch, and so is this guy. The Basics Brand: Omega Model: Seamaster Aqua Terra Ryder Cup Reference Number: Diameter: 41mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Silvery opaline Indexes: Applied blue indexes Lume: Yes, hands and indexes Water Resistance: 150 meters Strap/Bracelet: Structured rubber strap with 18k gold links to attach to the case, stainless steel bracelet The Movement Caliber: Omega Caliber 8900 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date Diameter: 29mm Power Reserve: 60 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph) Jewels: 39 METAS Master Chronometer Certified Pricing & Availability Price: $5,950 Availability: Now
  20. This week, the name of the game is rarity. A wide range of pieces that you just don’t see everyday popped up on the market this week, including a Universal Geneve Film Compax, an Abercrombie & Fitch Heuer in stunning shape, and an early, gilt dial Submariner with a twist of sorts. To keep things interesting, there’s also a desk clock of note. We’ve got a little something for everyone today, at price points both accessible and...otherwise. Universal Genève Film Compax After the Universal Geneve market first took off, everyone and their brother went digging through old watches in search of anything signed UG, which resulted in an influx of watches coming up for sale. A large majority of collectors chose to focus their attention primarily on the sport-cased Nina Rindt chronographs and “Clapton” dial Tri-Compaxes, as prices continued to climb at an unprecedented rate. But some were inspired to set their sights a little higher, and dug deeper into the back catalogs of the brand. Doing so would have resulted in the discovery of the Film Compax – a purpose-built chronograph of note, designed to track the amount of 35mm and 16mm film being run through a camera during an elapsed period. Given how niche a task these additional chronograph scales aided with, the watch was produced in extremely small numbers, with only a handful of examples known to the market. You can now add one to that handful, as while scrolling through eBay I encountered an unpolished example of the oversized cinematic chronograph. With one of the scales now faded away, the dial does indeed show its age, though given just how rare a watch we’re talking about, don’t be surprised to see some fierce bidding go down on this example. The last time one came up for sale it was at Phillips, and sold for nearly $70,000. If you’re looking for something almost no one else has, this one fits the bill. This ultra-rare UG is available on eBay from a Miami-based seller, and the bidding is up to $5,238 as we publish this (with a little more than three days left to go). Click here for the full listing. Cartier Santos Despite the watch industry's focus on men, wristwatches effectively began as a women’s accessory and were originally seen by many as feminine. With that said, there were some in the early days that disregarded this notion, in search of functionality. The Braizilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont was one of those individuals, who began wearing a wrist-mounted timepiece from his friend Louis Cartier in 1904, allowing him to track the time while in the air, all without giving up control of his aircraft. Fast forward roughly six decades, and examples of the Santos like this had become a mainstay of the Cartier collection. This manually wound example dates back to the 1970s and has held up quite well, with most of its case lines remaining decently sharp. Historians might technically classify this as a men’s watch, though given its size, I’d say it would make a terrific ladies’ piece. What’s so special about this piece, and much of the Cartier lineup in general, is the resemblance it bears to the original Santos from the early 1910s. Its a design so pure and iconic that even after the passing of five decades, and now a century, the overall aesthetic remains largely unchanged. That’s the power of great design. Just down the coast in Los Angeles, Wanna Buy A Watch is offering this example of the Santos for $4,500. Click here to see the full listing. Rolex Ref. 5512 'Eagle Beak' Submariner With Chapter Ring Dial The strength of the Daytona market has firmly established the model as the ultimate vintage sports Rolex to have, though over the past few months, the Submariner market has flexed a few milestones of its own. Back in June, we saw the first Submariner to cross the million dollar mark at Christie’s, with the sale of a beyond honest Explorer dial Ref. 6538, but unlike the Daytona market, this benchmark sale wasn’t followed by a bevy of other examples hitting the market. This can be attributed to the fact that great Subs are arguably much rarer. While browsing through the inventories of the usual gamut of reputable dealers, I came across a pretty special 5512. This is an early example of the reference, complete with a chapter ring gilt dial and an unconventionally shaped case. It’s what’s referred to by collectors as an "Eagle Beak" cased Submariner, as it’s pointed crown guards resemble the maxillary and mandibular rostrum of an eagle’s beak. I bet you didn’t expect a lesson in bird anatomy in this week’s article, but I'm here to serve. Though there is a bit of hand drag towards the center of the dial, it’s an otherwise clean piece that’s in honest shape. For those in search of a not-so-oridinary Submariner, you might want to check this one out. San Francisco’s H.Q. Milton is currently offering this Submariner for just under $68,550. Click here for the full listing. Bulova Snorkel Diver A great watch doesn’t have to cost a fortune. This shouldn’t come as any surprise to you, but in a world of recording breaking auction prices, and hen’s teeth rarities, it’s certainly easy to get perspectives skewed. At the end of the day it’s all about finding something unique that speaks to you, all while performing its chief task reliably and accurately. Back in the day, Bulova made some attractive divers and chronographs, that can still be acquired without entirely breaking the bank. This includes the Snorkel, a 666-foot rated diver housed in a decently sized 35 mm case, with an ample amount of luminous material on its dial for those deep plunges. I came across this example on the site of a dealer based out of Milwaukee, and it’s a rather uncommon one, in that the rotating bezel came painted from the facotry, and the word “Snorkel” appears on the silver dial. This places this example quite early on in the production of this specific model, and in unpolished condition you can’t deny its charm. Justin Vrakas of Watch Steez has this Bulova listed at $890. Click here to see the full listing. Spanish Rolex Desk Clock While the watches of yesteryear are ultimately the main attraction in this game, I’ve always been particularly interested in the marketing materials and dealer installations used to help promote and sell. When it comes to branding, few are capable of rivaling what Rolex has achieved in their 113 year history, as clearly evidenced by all the different advertisements of note, whimsical window displays, and dealer clocks they produced over the years. All of this contributed to the way the brand is now perceived, which is why such pieces of history are now so sought after. What we’ve got here is a desk clock, that likely would have been displayed inside a Spanish speaking authorized dealer’s showroom back in the 1950s. Although the Rolex green brass case – with gilt lettering reading “LA HORA AL SEGUNDO,” or "the time to the second" – does show some patina, the dial and hands of the clock have been preserved effectively and remain in pristine condition. The Rolex branded wooden case is a nice addition, as well, and ought to impress any completist scholar of all things Rolex. This clock is available on eBay for just under $20,000. Click here to see the full listing. Abercrombie & Fitch Heuer Seafarer If you’ve dipped your toes into the waters of vintage Heuer, chances are you’re aware of the watches they produced for Abercrombie & Fitch. Among the most coveted is the Ref. 2444 Seafarer, which featured a subdial that would indicate high and low tides, when used in conjunction with the chronograph. As the original advertisements would indicate, this was a watch “developed by, and especially for yachtsmen." An old Abercrombie & Fitch catalog, featuring a selection of Heuer-made watches. (Image: courtesy of OnTheDash) Seafarer’s surface from time to time, but this particular example stands out from the rest that have popped up over the past little while thanks to the present condition, which is clean as can be. You see all too many of these A&F Seafarer’s with heavily aged and often water-damaged dials, and they do indeed command less, but as is the case with any vintage watch purchase, it’s always advisable to hold out for the best example possible. This one surely does not suck. This Seafarer is available on eBay from a Michigan-based seller, and is being offered with a Buy It Now price of $18,000. You can also always make an offer, too.
  21. Earlier
  22. Wandering the halls of Baselworld or SIHH, it's easy to be overwhelmed by the sheer number of watches in front of you, forgetting the details of each. By the end, you end up with a head full of "watch" instead of a mental catalog of what you've actually encountered. However, each year there are a handful of pieces that cut through the noise and leave us eagerly awaiting the day they find their way to our office for a proper review. Coming out of Baselworld 2017, Stephen's most-anticipated piece was the deceptively simple Master Control from Jaeger-LeCoultre, updated with a 40s-inspired sector dial. Luckily, he got to see one of the first samples to arrive in the U.S. and decided to put the watch through its paces. This was a proper review, after all – first impressions are one thing, but a watch like this needs to stand up to actual wear too. After a full week on the wrist, the Master Control continued to impress, maybe even more than it did fresh out of the box. Sometimes a watch reveals its flaws the closer you look, and sometimes a watch only gets better with more scrutiny. This was definitely the latter. A little strap change added a dash of extra personality, and it's safe to say that sending this one back to JLC wasn't easy.
  23. Here is something I know many of you have been waiting for: the new Halios Seaforth GMT. After the first series of the original Seaforth sold out and then the subsequent offerings proved to be so popular that Halios's site was unable to survive the ordering process, the three-handers are in production and ordering for the Seaforth GMT starts today. Many of the specifics are identical to the original Seaforth (which I bought, and also reviewed here) and it is essentially the same Seaforth you know and love but rocking an ETA 2893-2 automatic with a "caller GMT" independent 24-hour display. As I highlighted in my recent Tudor Black Bay GMT review, GMT watches typically come in one of two formats. Those with local jumping hour functionality ("flyer GMTs" like the Black Bay GMT), or those with an independent 24-hour hand (a "caller GMT", like the Halios Seaforth or any other watch using ETAs 2893-2 movement). Local jumping GMTs are generally the most flexible for actual travel as you can jump set the hour of the local time zone without stopping the watch. In contrast, independent 24-hour GMTs are great for tracking another time zone or two from afar. This is very handy for those of us that have to call or judge response times on messages sent to distant places. The Seaforth GMT's independent 24-hour hand is updated via the first position on the crown and jumps forward without affecting the date display. The case is steel and measures 40mm (41mm for versions with a rotating bezel), 48mm lug to lug, and 12mm thick at the top of the crystal. The crystal is sapphire (domed and anti-reflective), the crown screws down, and water resistance is 200m. I have been wearing my pastel blue Seaforth with a 12-hour GMT bezel for a year now and it's a watch that I absolutely love. As I covered in my original review, I've found the Seaforth to be a perfectly sized, easy to wear, distinctively styled (pastel, baby), and attractively priced watch. With this new GMT version, interested parties can choose from two dial colors and four possible bezel options, allowing you the ability to tune the Seaforth for your needs from a GMT watch. The 40mm Seaforth GMT with the Abyss Blue dial. Initial Thoughts The pre-production example seen in these photos has the Abyss Blue dial and the fixed bezel option. The alternate dial color is Nimbus Grey, which is a lighter matte coloring that has black surrounds for the markers hand hands (much like on previous pastel-colored Seaforths. Either dial can be optioned with the shown fixed bezel, a black sapphire dive bezel (with a luminous scale), a steel dive bezel, or a steel 24-hour bezel (both steel bezels have lumed triangles at the home position). Thanks to an internal 24-hour scale, all four models manage to show two time zones regardless of the bezel option. With the 24-hour bezel you add the flexibility of tracking either three time zones (home, a reference on the GMT hand, and then a third on the bezel via the offset from the reference), or the ability to leave the GMT hand on GMT/UTC time and quickly update to any new time zone by simply rotating the bezel. All three of the rotating bezel options are unidirectional and use the same design as the three-hand Seaforth, which is clicky, accurate, and easy to use. The Seaforth GMT works really well on a simple NATO. The orange tip of the independent 24-hour hand pointing to the subtle but crucial 24-hour scale on the dial edge. 48mm lug to lug, the Seaforth GMT's case is thin and sized for maximum wearability. Like any of the dozen or so Seaforths I've tried on since they were released last year, the GMT feels great, offers strong legibility, and works on a variety of straps. Speaking of straps, this sample from Halios was delivered without the included rubber strap so I tried it on both a leather and a NATO and I think you'll agree both options suit the watch well. The Abyss Blue dial is glassy and slightly iridescent, appearing black in low light and then shining blue in highlight. The stubby GMT hand and its bright orange tip looks great and instantly stands out on the dial. Given the ETA caliber within, there is simple but nicely balanced date display at six on the dial that uses a blueish dark grey wheel with white text. Likewise, the Nimbus Grey dial has a matched grey date wheel with black text. The Seaforth GMT (left) and an original Series I Seaforth with a 12-hour bezel (right). As a definite fan (and owner) of the original Seaforth and an on-the-record nerd for GMT watches, the Seaforth GMT is right up my alley. The size, look, color options, and functionality is all evidence of a thoughtful design process and, given the additional complication and the Swiss movement, the value statement remains very strong. The Seaforth GMT is being sold via the brand's website in two batches starting today (ending tomorrow) and pricing starts at $900 for a fixed bezel option, or $925 if you opt for one of the rotating bezels. In either three-hand or GMT, I still feel that the Seaforth represents one of the best products at this price point and I wish you luck and Godspeed in making a final decision on dial and bezel options. The Basics Brand: Halios Model: Seaforth GMT Diameter: 40mm (41mm for models with rotating bezel) Thickness: 12mm Case Material: Steel Dial Color: Blue or Grey Indexes: Applied batons Lume: Yes, SuperLuminova C3 on hands and indexes Water Resistance: 200 meters Strap/Bracelet: Rubber strap with signed buckle Strong lume application on the Seaforth GTM, love that glowing GMT hand. The Movement Caliber: ETA 2893-2 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, 24-hour independent hand Diameter: 25.6mm Power Reserve: 38 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph) Jewels: 21 Pricing & Availability Price: $900 - $925 depending on bezel selection Availability: Goes on sale today (August 10, 2018) at 1:00 PM PT, with a second batch releasing 11 hours later (to help those on the other side of the world). Shipping begins August 2018.
  24. EdgyGuyJide


    STRIKING A CHORD A pure hour-strike chiming each passing hour. This ever-so impressive, rare complication nestles inside Louis Moinet’s latest creation, unveiled as a limited edition. A major move for Louis Moinet with the launch of Ultravox, a striking timepiece. This Latin strong voice strikes a magical chord through an incomparable movement designed by the master watchmaker Eric Coudray. This highly-unusual complication, whose role is to chime each passing hour on the hour, is spectacularly centre-staged dial-side. “Moinet Blue” movement components, such as the hammer set at 12 o’clock which strikes a gong positioned around the movement, enhance the unparalleled arabesque-style of the timepiece. The calibre’s 316 components invite to be admired in their entirety. By turning over the case, we discover a host of other essential mechanisms such as the two micro-rotors assembled side-by-side and featuring a black finish. One drives the hour and minute hands and provides them with a power reserve of 38 hours, the other is dedicated to the striking mechanism which can be repeated for 90 hours. In addition to its role as time-setter, the crown also invites to wind the rotors manually, individually using the 3 positions. This breathtaking engineering composition sits majestically in an elegant 46.5 mm-diameter rose gold case. Two push-pieces attached to the caseband at 8 and 10 o’clock allow the wearer to respectively choose silent mode or to strike the hours on demand. This first 28-piece limited-series Ultravox is paired with a black alligator leather strap. Other variations should be available in the near future. Price: CHF130,000 www.louismoinet.com
  25. There has been no bigger trend in watches these last few years than that of the "homage watch." What we're talking about here are modern watches explicitly designed to recall a particular model or family from a brand's past. As vintage watches have gained popularity, contemporary watchmakers are looking to capture lightning a second time, building new collections on their former all-stars. When done right, the results can be incredible – though with everybody trying their hand at this strategy, there are a lot of homage watches to sort through. Here are five new examples of the trend that have our editors excited right now. Cara Barrett – Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition One watch that slipped through the cracks at Baselworld this year was the Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition. This year marks the 70th anniversary of the Seamaster, and Omega created two vintage-inspired examples to celebrate. Each has a 38mm steel case, a domed crystal, and a METAS-certified movement. In the metal, these watches are incredibly elegant and do a great job of being modern interpretations of a vintage classic. Generally speaking, Omega produces far more sporty watches under the Seamaster collection so it is refreshing to see such a beautiful, vintage-inspired timepiece. $6,700 (small seconds), $6,150 (center seconds); omegawatches.com Jon Bues – Mido Multifort Datometer This limited edition of 1,918 pieces, designed to mark Mido's centenary this year, isn't just one of the best-looking vintage homages of this year, but also one of the most attractively priced, at just $1,350. Aesthetically, this 40mm automatic timepiece with pointer date definitely gets the early-20th-century look right, even with its larger case size. The case itself is also fairly slim at 11.85mm, which means that it really does wear like a dress watch. Oh, and the movement inside is one of very best affordable calibers currently being offered by the Swatch Group, a modified ETA automatic with a full 80 hours of power reserve. If I have one cavil, it's that the Multifort Datometer watch features a gold PVD case. It would have loved to have seen a simple steel version of this watch for the same price or a hair less. $1,350; midowatches.com Jack Forster – Seiko 1968 Automatic Diver's Re-Creation Limited Edition Ref. SLA025 One of the great things about vintage watch re-editions, is that they give watch brands an opportunity to look at much-loved classics and to go one better by offering similar aesthetics, but with updated materials and mechanics. Vintage watches can be absolutely wonderful, but generally speaking, suffer a bit in comparison with modern watches when it comes to durability and reliability. One of my favorite updates this year came from Seiko, which did a re-issue of the 6159-7001: the SLA025. The 6159-7001 is a relatively rare watch (it was manufacture for only two years, 1968-69) and the new model has all the idiosyncratic, form-follows-function appeal of the original, but with an updated movement, and many small tweaks to the basic design. A burly tool watch that radiates readiness to stand up to anything you and the deep blue sea can throw at it. $5,400; seikowatches.com James Stacey – Longines Military Watch If you're going all in on the new vintage look, few brands did it better than Longines at Baselworld this past year (or really, over the past several years). Their new Longines Military Watch has a lovely and old school 38.5mm steel case that wraps around a beautiful faux-aged dial replete with fake age spots and its classic blued steel hands are powered by a Longines automatic L888 movement (based on the ETA A31). It's a new watch that definitely looks old, it's beautiful, and at CHF 2000, I wouldn't call it cheap but it definitely offers a strong value and the Military Watch manages to out-charm much of the competition. CHF 2,000; longines.com Stephen Pulvirent – Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Heritage watches have been a big part of Tudor's offering for years, so another great one should come as no surprise. However, I've got to admit that the Black Bay Fifty-Eight kind of came out of nowhere for me. The watch pays tribute to the original Tudor Big Crown Submariner (from 1958, hence the name) and takes on a slimmer, smaller profile than any of the existing Black Bay divers. It's just 39mm across and a hair under 12mm thick, meaning it wears almost exactly like an old, crown-guard-free Sub from the 60s. At the very least, it's the closest thing you're going to find in a modern watch. The bevels on the lugs and the gilt finishing really make this watch for me (though I know that last bit is a little controversial), and the BB58 has both warmth and charm for days. $3,575; tudorwatch.com
  26. TOUR DE FORCE With this new creation added to its exclusive collection, the brand combines multiple watchmaking complications enhanced by the art of engraving. With Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication “Ornementale“, Vacheron Constantin has provided the best of its skills all concentrated in a grey-gold 47mm-wide case. The watch features 16 complications on two purple-toned gold dials. Among them are the calendar functions, with a perpetual date combined with an equation of time. The timepiece also displays the sunrise and sunset time. Several features are turned towards the sky, including a sky chart completed by the moon age and moon phases, as well as the sidereal hours and minutes. The seasons with the signs of the zodiac have not been left out. Other complications, including the tourbillon and the power-reserve indicator highlight the excellent accuracy of this unique piece. As an ultimate homage to fine watchmaking, a minute repeater and an indicator of striking-mechanism torque are also part of the watch’s enchantment. The myriad features are driven by a hand-wound movement. No less than 839 components went into making it. And despite the big energy needed to keep it working perfectly, the calibre provides a generous power reserve of 58 hours. But while the mechanism comes close to perfection, what can we say about the design! The bezel, body, lugs and even the tang buckle are decorated with an ornamental pattern inspired by 19th century Victorian architecture. This work of art and miniature sculpture took over 150 hours to make by hand using chisels and specialised tools. Price on request vacheron-constantin.com
  27. Buckle up, buttercup, as this may well be peak Richard Mille. Nothing short of a wrist-full, the newly announced Richard Mille RM 25-01 Tourbillon Adventure is a high-tech chronograph that also happens to feature a tourbillon, a mountable compass, a level, and a hermetically sealed cache of water purification tablets. Oh, and it was born of a friendship between Richard Mille (the man) and Sylvester Stallone, as a sort of study into the kind of watch that John Rambo might have worn. You can't make this stuff up, and the RM 25-01 is a fittingly complicated, stupendously expensive, and very limited design from the brand with a penchant for all things buck wild. Initial Thoughts I'm on record as rather liking Richard Mille simply because they make crazy over-the-top things that blend fine watchmaking with cutting-edge design and materials. The RM 25-01 is no exception to this, and in fact, it may well be the prime example moving forward. The RM 25-01 is 50.85mm wide with a case made of Carbon TPT and titanium. Inside that case is a tourbillon-equipped titanium competition chronograph movement with a 24 hour time display for helping to assess AM vs PM. The compass, along with its Carbon TPT cover and titanium mount, is part of a separate and removable bezel element that connects via a bayonet mount to place an active compass above the dial of the RM 25-01. The compass functionality includes a mirror in the cover for taking readings, and the RM 25-01 even offers a spirit level mounted to the side of the case for greater accuracy when reading the compass heading. Coated for anti-reflection and anti-magnetism to prevent shared interference with the movement, when not affixed to the RM 25-01, the compass element can be mounted to an included orienteering-style map plate and a second 24 hour navigation bezel can be mounted in its place on the watch. Above the level we find a torque-limiting crown that protects the movement while also linking with a small display to show the user what function is currently active. Finally, above the crown, there is a small chamber that holds five emergency water purification tablets. Capable of purifying a total of five liters of water, should you find yourself lost and alone with your nearly seven-figure RM, hydration will not be your first concern. I can only imagine where the comments are going to go on this $983,000 luxury adventure-themed watch that is at least partly the product of the mind that brought John Rambo to life on the big screen. Is the RM 25-01 goofy? Oh yeah. But, with only 20 being produced (and at least one claimed by Sly himself), I'm inclined to offer up a shrug and suggest that the price and the gimmicks matter about as much as the RM 25-01 merits as an actual survival tool. It's (nearly) a million dollars of fun that is meant to invoke the spirit of a wild-card Vietnam-era badass who is the central character in a film called First Blood. Within that bizarre framework, I'd argue that Richard Mille has managed to create something unique, fun, and entirely on brand for Stallone's wrist. The real question is, do you think they'd let me take one camping? The Basics Brand: Richard Mille Model: RM 25-01 Tourbillon Adventure Diameter: 50.85mm Case Material: Titanium and Carbon TPT Dial Color: Black Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 100m Strap/Bracelet: Camo patterned natural rubber strap The RM 25-01 Tourbillon Adventure with the compass tool mounted to its bezel. The Movement Caliber: RM 25-01 Functions: Tourbillon, chronograph, power reserve, hours, minutes, seconds Diameter: 38.95mm Thickness: 8.73mm Power Reserve: 70 hours Winding: Manually wound Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph) Jewels: 35 Additional Details: Detachable compass bezel tool, torque indicator, function indicator, and titanium base plates and bridges Pricing & Availability Price: $983,000 Availability: Sold through Richard Mille boutiques worldwide Limited Edition: 20 pieces
  28. EdgyGuyJide


    TIME: A NEW FOSSIL ENERGY A new edition made by Louis Moinet and limited to 28 pieces includes a tourbillon movement driving a kinetic visual effect and a unique second display. In 2013, Louis Moinet unveiled the surprising Derrick Tourbillon watch. What was original about it? It was a device representing a derrick used to extract crude oil, and which moved for as long as the watch worked. You just needed to recharge it with non-polluting mechanical energy for it to start up again. With the Black Gold Derrick, the mechanism has kept the same spirit linked to the world of oil-drilling, while pushing creativity a little bit further. The dial again features a long articulated arm with its “head” at the left-hand end, creating the visual identity of the oil-extracting tool. The mechanic architecture is rounded off by a titanium barrel located at 9 o’clock. Louis Moinet has given the permanently rotating barrel the task of marking the seconds. They can be read at the bottom of the barrel, on a red engraved seconds track. “Black gold” flows symbolically across the dial. The bridges have been coated with black PVD. They are open-worked, unveiling the mechanism and the barrel spring with its traditional finishes, characteristic of fine watchmaking. The numerous acute angles are all hand-finished. Also to be seen is a pearled decor on the plate and slender lines on the bridges. The calibre and tourbillon provide the Black Gold Derrick with a healthy power reserve of 3 days. The watch is housed in a white gold case, christened Neo by Louis Moinet, and features the 6-screw bezel that has become the firm’s trade mark. The open-work lugs are fitted to an elegant leather strap. Price: 260,000 CHF www.louismoinet.com
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