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daytonaking

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Everything posted by daytonaking

  1. Oh man! What a horrible situation! I suggest you scour the Internet for a spare seconds hand....If your very lucky you might find one which suits the watch well....
  2. Alright all you experts... A friend wants to buy and I want to help him figure out what its worth... Is there anything special about this particular watch for valuation purposes or should I just look for similar period GMT's? Wil post additional photos when I get them from him... Thanks
  3. Ti is much lighter than steel, but just keep aware that they are much more scratch prone. Contrary to popular belief, Ti is actually softer than steel. I believe they are around 36 or so HRC in hardness where as 316/904 is in the 50s.
  4. Excellent review. Thank you! Really appreciated the photos and specifications of the Ranger and Explorer compared to the NF. I was really surprised that the North Face is thicker and weighs a bit more than the Milgauss with its internal shielding. It's the new movement which appeals to me--and I like power reserve complications. The yellow and integrated bracelet, not so much.
  5. A Rolex is not about lume like a TORCH. It seems as if your expectations might be off. A Rolex is about the whole package. I'm sorry about your disappointment, but maybe Rolex isn't for you.......because their lume is not their strong point.
  6. I was out for coffee this morning before work and saw two guys in line ahead of me wearing Subs, both of which were the newer ceramic date model. I own the SubC ND and haven't seen another one, but I do see my fair share of Subs and Rolexes in DC. That being said I think DC is a bit different than most areas. I've everything here, from Pateks and AP's, to a Sub Smurf a year ago. I agree that in the broader perspective no, Rolexes and Subs are not common, just the most recognized.
  7. he's talking about ceramic bezels, not aluminum bezels.... read my post.
  8. I have seen a few guys who have taken their bracelets to a AD and had them brushed, it looks so much better. Hopefully someone will come along with some pics soon.
  9. Hi everyone. I just purchased my first Rolex (the 39mm Explorer1) pre-owned from an certified service center (13 months of warranty remaining). It was supposedly sized and not really worn prior to my purchase. It's been running around 5 seconds a day fast which I think seems a bit much? Would you write it off to a break in period or would you take in to get regulated? Any thoughts/insight is appreciated!
  10. Hi guys, can anyone give me some feed back on the pilot ceramic 44mm. I am looking at getting one of these. Are the straps comfortable. Are they really light to wear. thanks Andy
  11. Hey all, This is the current collection Want to add a IWC Portuguese very soon. Love the automatic 7day and the Chrono. Any advice on which is better? I'm leaning towards the Chrono as I have 6.5 wrists and have always admired that dial. Also town between the Silver dial with blue hands and numbers vs the rose gold. Thanks for any tips.
  12. daytonaking

    New IWC Failure

    Yes, I agree. I'm not in love with the movement in general. Pushers are really hard and stiff and accuracy isn't special. IWC's dial designs are excellent, but their casework and movements are hit and miss sometimes.
  13. I would also hope that when launching some of the new models that feature its new movements, IWC will provide early versions with COSC certification. Having a chronometer grading would demonstrate that their new calibers are accurate time keepers, something that cannot be claimed in their current crop of in-house movements (I speak from my experience with the 5001). Some argue that COSC is irrelevant, that the top manufactures exceed their criteria. I would say that this is true of IWC's 2892 and Valjoux based models, but that most of their in-house calibers would benefit from an extra level of post production scrutiny. In any event, I would personally hold off buying any model with their proposed 42000 calibre until it establishes a good track record. The same goes for the performance of the chrono functions on the 69000. The 52000 is probably similar enough to the 5000 series that no serious new kinks will arise.
  14. Yes, I believe that's a common fake dial that has been sold many times. I'd ask for my money back if you paid very much.
  15. Because Kojavictor sells on Ebay watches that other sellers propose on Molotok or Aukro. He ask for twice the price for watches he doesn't have. The same for his French friend Lyod Celsius on Ebay. => this is the reason why you buy a watch from these guys and then they find hazy reason to explain they cannot deliver it. It's been sold before and they did not know. In other words, this guy is a thief, a crook. Maybe he proposed your watch at a very good price on Ebay, thinking he could convince you to sell? You should notify this to Ebay => to close his account there was many issues with this guy
  16. Think this is the correct case that Arizone refers too but wrong crown? Now to find the hands and stem/crown .
  17. it was keeping correct time but I woke up this morning to it being 2 hours off, but I also don't think I wound it up all the way. when I went to adjust it, the hands don't line up to exact time (like 9:00 looks like 8.5:00 if that makes any sense). may have bumped the hands when I had it out. or magnetized.
  18. It's certainly a very nice watch. I have one not unlike it myself. I notice that the day wheel looks a slightly different colour to the date. Is this common? I have a watch like that and wondered if one had been replaced?
  19. We all know the stock Amphibia bezels and the custom made units would be better if they could incorporate a Unidirectional system with click-stop. It's been discussed a few times with the conclusion that it is too much trouble to do given the case design and cost limitations. But surely to God we can at least try modifying a couple of old bezels and cases ! I have a few that I could experiment with. I invite all those interested to give ideas. Looking at photos of other bezel systems it is clear that they machine a coarsely serrated edge on the bezel bottom or a separate, serrated steel insert ring in the bottom of the bezel. This rides on either a metal prong or a spring loaded ball bearing. Obviously, sufficient space is needed between the bottom face of the bezel and the case to provide clearance for the serrated ring. Also, the bottom lip of the bezel must be thick enough to allow it to be machined. Amphibian bezels have a very thin bottom lip. This is the main problem. _____________________________ Click mechanism: A small hole could be drilled into the case, under the bezel bottom face. A small ball bearing could then be inserted with a small spring underneath to provide the pressure needed to push the ball into the teeth of the bezel's serrations. Amphibian cases may have the thickness required under the bezel to drill such a hole. _____________________________ The size and depth of the 'teeth' on the bezel's serrated face would be dictated mainly by the size and shape of the prong or ball bearing that it rides against. The smaller the prong or ball, the shallower the teeth can be. Too small however, and the teeth would not hold the bezel from turning under normal pressure. ______________________________ I enjoy a good mechanical challenge, but now that I really think about this maybe I am just 'flogging a dead horse'. Matt B
  20. Thanks amine!! I would like that very much. Cheers.
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