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  1. Hi to all, I was wondering if anyone has ever experienced problems with a hairline crack in their oyster case? I have a 16014 DJ which has a very fine hairline crack on the back lip/rim of the case where the case back joins the seal. I cannot photograph it properly, but I noticed that it has been there ever since the watch was new which I thought was only a minor scratch. I had it serviced by the RSC about 15 months ago and had raised it to their attention at the time of service but they were more concerned about offering me the option of replacing the immaculate yellow dial and hands which are still on there now. What boggles my mind is that they had said that it passed the pressure test for 100 meters, when this model was actually designed for 50 meters according to the manual that came with the watch. Sounds too good to be true but I wont question this. However, this year before going to my swimming centre , I took the precaution of having it pressure tested by a local watchmaker and surprise surprise, he said to me that he saw some very small bubbles come from that very same section I have been worried about. I am annoyed about this because as a peace of mind I was willing to pay the RSC extra to replace the inner case for me but didn't. I was thinking of buying a new inner case as a spare in the event mine gets worse or even becomes unavailable from stock supplies in future when getting it replaced, but from where to find one is the real problem???. I found one second hand one but it is worse than mine with crevice corrision. This might be a long shot but I may never know my luck in asking if anyone knows where I could buy a new inner case from as I know Rolex will not sell anything but a full service?
  2. I recall someone mentioning that whenever you remove the back gasket from the watch case, one should also use a gasket lube named Fomblin to grease the case groove and gasket? Has anyone ever had any experiences with this and what is the recommended procedure?
  3. Does anyone know the size of the back gasket of a 1803 DayDate? I know that Rolex do not sell any spares of any kind so my only option where I live is to order a generic one from some watch supply house on the web that only deals with figures in mm etc. as they do not have a DayDate on site to measure. Any information would be greatly appreciated, with many thanks in advance
  4. from a watch case to apply a new coat of say silicone grease? I know that fomblin is meant to be better, but I have a full container of silicone watch grease and for a one off, I cannot justify purchasing a tub of fomblin.
  5. Some time ago, I hastily read in an old 1955 manual - "DeKarl??? " if my memory serves me correctly of the name, that you can always tell if a case back has been correctly placed (not cross threaded) onto the back by looking around where the back buts on the case and that the space should be even right around or lightly passing a fine toothpick around and you will feel an even flow right around. Has anyone ever read this or can further explain if this rings a bell with anyone?
  6. I was wondering if anyone has any experiences in telling if the case threads on the 18K gold Oyster models are in good condition such as the older 1803 or 1807 etc? As Gold is a lot softer than stainless steel, I suspect that the threads are more vulnerable to becoming worn every time the case is opened, especially when it may require a little more effort to open between service intervals when they get stuck? I am aware that threads are greased at each service but am also aware that some of the older greases deteriorated more or when in contact with other bodily fluids that caused them to get stuck at times. I am more concerned about the vintage models such as the 1803/ 1807 models that have regularly serviced and therefore having had the cases opened more often with more wear by threads moving over each other or even just opened more frequently for inspection. I was wondering what to look for to make sure that the case threads are satisfactory and not limiting by a future service causing them not to close properly or not at all. Case threads especially on gold models are so very much overlooked that once they are damaged or worn then it becomes scrap gold. I recall someone mentioning that when a case tightens and untightens easily is usually a good sign, however any additional feedback is much appreciated with many thanks in advance
  7. stainless steel cases as it has commonly been brought up when discussing gold cases? Quote:
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