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EdgyGuyJide

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  1. Greubel Forsey, makers of some of the most exotic high-end watches on the planet, has for many years had a sort of internal research and development department. The Experimental Watch Technology program's most recent introduction is an evolution of technology first presented in 2009: a form of constant force device that takes the remontoire d'égalité as a point of departure. The latest fruit of the Experimental Watch Technology Program is a full-fledged timepiece with a spherical differential constant force system. Why This Watch Matters The Différentiel d’Égalité is an example of a certain tradition of horological experimentation: research into a means by which energy which doesn't vary can be delivered to the escapement. The verge, which was the first known escapement, was very sensitive to power variations and was often paired with early constant force devices such as the fusee or the stackfreed. The more sophisticated but much more complex remontoire is another example and variations on this device are among the most interesting mechanisms in horology. Initial Thoughts The mainspring in a watch is just like the spring that powers a windup toy; as the spring unwinds, it delivers less and less power. In a windup toy car, the car goes slower; in a watch, the balance turns through a smaller and smaller arc. Theoretically, the balance and spring are isochronous – that is, the size of the arc shouldn't make a difference – but since no actual watch achieves the perfect performance of a theoretical system, healthy and stable balance amplitude remains a goal of modern watchmaking. The remontoire addresses this problem by putting a secondary, small mainspring on one of the wheels of the gear train. This secondary spring is much weaker than the mainspring, which rewinds it at regular intervals. The first remontoire in a watch was invented by the famous English chronometer maker John Harrison, who used it in his second experimental sea-clock, H2. The remontoire in his fourth sea-clock, H4 (which is generally acknowledged as the first successful marine chronometer, and which was tested at sea in 1761 with spectacular results) rewinds once every 7.5 seconds. The remontoire is an ingenious, if delicate and demanding, mechanism but it does have one objection to it, which is that it still doesn't deliver perfectly even torque. This is where the Différentiel d’Égalité comes in. The remontoire spring is partially visible just above the running seconds sub-dial, which sits adjacent to the much larger sub-dial for the jumping/deadbeat seconds. The Différentiel d’Égalité contains a mechanism which is, as Stephen Forsey put it when he described it to me, "of the remontoire class" however it does something a conventional remontoire (if there is such a thing) doesn't do: it provides perfectly even energy to the escapement and balance. To do this, Greubel Forsey developed a differential system that receives one energy input from the gear train, but which has two output paths. The remontoire spring rewinds once per second; one output path goes to a jumping seconds hand, whose movement reflects the one second rewind interval (the F. P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain is another example of a watch with a one second remontoire-dependent jumping, or deadbeat, seconds hand). The other output path provides energy to the escapement and balance; on this output path is a smaller, conventional seconds display, which advances one increment for every advance of one escape wheel tooth (in other words it works like the seconds hand in a conventional watch). You can see the remontoir spring and differential partly exposed in the center of the dial. The finish on the Différentiel d’Égalité, both front and back, is every bit as flawless as we've come to expect from Greubel Forsey (well, nothing that exists is flawless but if anything that exists comes within a hairsbreadth it just might be a Greubel Forsey watch, judged from a finish quality perspective). I think this is a deeply cool watch. The remontoire is something few companies trouble with, because in general it doesn't bring much to the table from a practical standpoint – modern lever escapement watches with modern alloy balance springs that are well constructed and regulated are light years more advanced in horological terms than watches in the days when the remontoire was invented. However, Greubel Forsey's horological experiments – the 24 second tourbillon, inclined tourbillons, inclined balances (such as the one found in the Différentiel d’Égalité) are all about exploring the most extreme possible refinements to mechanical horology. (Notably, these experiments take place without recourse to silicon.) There is something about the wringing of extremely incremental improvements in performance out of already very high precision systems that gets right in amongst me, and if you are of a similar turn of mind, the Différentiel d’Égalité is a watch you won't want to miss. Hope to get more specific info on how the differential does its thing at some point in the not-too-distant future.
  2. Back in 2016, Oris released the Carl Brashear Limited Edition as a bronze addition to the brand’s beloved Diver Sixty-Five line. Ever since, the watch has become a go-to recommendation for dive watch enthusiasts looking to add a bronze timepiece to their collection — that is, if you were somehow able to find one. Earlier today, in anticipation of Baselworld, the independent brand out of Holstein, Switzerland unveiled the Carl Brashear 2.0. The big difference? This time around it’s a chronograph. Before we delve into the nitty-gritty details of the watch’s background and technical development, let’s recap just who Carl Brashear was and why the name might sound familiar to you even if you’ve never stepped a foot into the ocean. Carl Brashear was the first African-American to become a certified U.S. Navy Diver back in 1954. In 1970, he became the first African-American to reach the rank of U.S. Navy Master Diver despite losing one of his legs in the aftermath of the 1966 Palomares Incident (Brashear was later awarded the Navy and Marine Corps Medal for his heroic actions). His motto — “It’s not a sin to get knocked down; it’s a sin to stay down” — can be found on the caseback of both the original time-only Carl Brashear and the new chronograph version. His biggest moment in the spotlight, however, just might be when Cuba Gooding Jr. took on the role of Brashear in the 2000 film, Men of Honor. If you look closely, you can see Brashear’s mantra surrounding the period-appropriate dive helmet. Oris originally chose to use bronze in the case, crown, pushers, and bezel as a way to call back to the vintage dive helmets that Brashear and countless other divers would have used at the time. It’s a memorable choice that offers up an opportunity for the development of a natural patina. If you’ve never owned a bronze watch, patina occurs over time as the bronze oxidizes after being in contact with air, water, and the oils in your skin. The bronze gradually develops a greenish-brown layer that many watch enthusiasts absolutely adore. Love it or hate it, bronze timepieces offer something uniquely personal that can’t be replicated by other metals. It’s also worth noting that this is only the second time Oris has ever used bronze in one of its timepieces throughout its 114 year history, the first being in the 2016 time-only version. Inside the watch, we have the Oris Caliber 771, which is a modified Sellita SW 510 movement with a two-counter chronograph and a 48-hour power reserve. This is the first time that Oris has used this specific caliber. The bi-compax layout of the subdials leaves a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a small second at 9 o’clock. Date purists should be happy as the brand omitted the complication this time around in order to keep the dial as clean and symmetrical as possible. The dial is a deep blue that is extremely rich in person and is, of course, meant to recall the depths of the ocean that Brashear entered time-and-time again with zero hesitation. The watch has grown ever-so-slightly from 42 mm to 43 mm and measures in at a hair thicker thanks to the more complicated movement. The 43 mm watch gamely fulfills other dive watch necessities such as a 100 m water resistance, a uni-directional bezel, a screw-down crown, and Super-LumiNova filled indices and hands. The Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition is limited to 2,000 pieces and will be available for $4,950 when it’s officially released in April. The Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition comes in a wooden box with a Carl Brashear Foundation commemorative coin inside.
  3. Ulysse Nardin Black Sea

    The 45.8mm Black Sea is the latest addition to the Marine Diver collection. The stainless-steel case has undergone a complex vulcanization process, leaving it with a matte-black rubber coating, giving it a sporty aesthetic and comfortable feel. The wave motif extends from the dial to the bezel and even the rubber and ceramic strap. Find pricing and wallpaper inside. The exhibition case-back reveals the self-winding movement which features a 42-hour power reserve indicator, oversize small seconds register and a large date display. The hour markers and the hour and minute hands are covered with red luminescent material. The power-reserve indicator is located at 12 o’clock while the small seconds and round date are displayed at 6 o’clock. Small hands are painted in red. The individually-numbered case provides a unidirectional rotating bezel and a screwed crown and is is water-resistant to 200 meters. The strap includes a black ceramic folding clasp. The suggested retail price for the Black Sea is $9500. Complete specifications appear below the images, which may be enlarged with a click. Technical Data – Ulysse Nardin Black Sea Reference: 263-92-3C Stainless steel Movement: Caliber UN-26, 11 ½’’ 28 jewels Power reserve: Approximately 42 h Winding: self-winding Functions: power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. Small seconds and round date window at 6 o’clock. Case: stainless steel treated by vulcanization process with a matte-black rubber coating. Unidirectional rotating bezel, wave-pattern decoration with diving scale Diameter: 45.8 mm Crown: screw down security crown Water resistance: 200 meters Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire crystal Caseback: open case back with sapphire crystal Bracelet: rubber bracelet with two ceramic elements and deployant clasp
  4. This newest Richard Mille creation is designed to go deep and to offer a range of functions along the way. While exploring the depths, you have at your disposal hours, minutes, seconds, 60-minute countdown, 12-hour totalizer and flyback chronograph, annual calendar with oversized date, and a month indicator. Find pricing and wallpaper inside. Available in titanium, 18K white gold or red gold, the 50 mm x 17.80 mm RM 032 is water resistant to 300 meters (30 atmospheres), following ISO 6425 diver’s watch norms. The power reserve is circa 50 hours, 45h with chronograph running. The digits for the date indicator are composed of two discs, with the digits cut out like positive stencils, offering great visual clarity combined with style. The annual calendar allows for the date change to be automatically calculated for months of 30 and 31 days; the only exception being the month of February. Assembled by three layers connected with 22 screws, the bezel and system attaching it to the watchcase, makes it stable as well as impossible to inadvertently dislocate or loosen. The bezel rotates unidirectionaly in line with the norm ISO 6425, to avoid mistakes when calculating diving time. For clearer visibility under murky conditions, at 12 o’clock onwards, the minute markers of the first quarter are highlighted in red. The RM 032 also possesses a running indicator, located at 3 o’clock. Thanks to both its geometry and 2-rpm rotational frequency, it is possible to check the correct functioning of the running movement under stressful conditions. The running indicator disc is composed of successive Superluminova and black sectors; as a result it can be easily read during day or night. The skeletonized automatic movement of the RM 032 utilizes Richard Mille’s patented system of automatic rotor with variable geometry, an innovation that allows the level of automatic winding to be adjusted to the user’s lifestyle via the setting of two 18k white gold rotor ribs. The caliber RMAC2, with 62 jewels and beating at 4Hz, has a free sprung balance with variable inertia. This design provides greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 adjustable small weights located directly on the balance. The RM 032 case is one fo the most difficult to manufacture. After a 1.5 hour turning phase, this tripartite case has to undergo 830 operations planned during an 9-hour milling phase. At the end of an 11-hour machining phase, each RM 032 case has to pass a 1-hour quality control. The pushers, their respective components and crown require a 10-day machining phase. During this period numerous water resistance tests and quality controls are carried out as well as the hand brushing and polishing of the case. During deep sea dives, the water pressure on the pushers and crown is powerful enough to unintentionally operate one of the pushers. In order to avoid any external pressure effect or accidental manipulation, Richard Mille has developed a locking crown for the RM 032 that locks the pushers and as a result ensures water resistance up to 300 meters. The crown and pushers of the RM 032 can be locked by simply rotating its ring (green index if unlocked, red index if locked). The movement is also protected from being damaged from overpressure or shocks on the crown. The water resistance is enhanced thanks to maximum seal pressure. This system is specific to the RM 032 and is patent pending. U.S. retail prices start at $125,000. The image below may be enlarged substantially with a click. Technical Information CALIBER RMAC2: automatic winding movement with hours, minutes, seconds, oversize date, month, flyback chronograph with minutes and seconds counter, hour counter, running indicator and adjustable rotor geometry. Diameter : 50.00 mm x 17.80 mm. MAIN FEATURES POWER RESERVE Circa 50 hours, 45h with chronograph running. Actual power reserve results will depend on the period of time the chronograph is utilized.
  5. Roger Dubuis announced two big motorsports partnerships in 2017, both with iconic Italian brands — one with Pirelli, renowned manufacturer of racecar tires; the other with racing team Lamborghini Squadra Corse. This week at SIHH 2018, the Geneva-based brand revealed the latest new timepieces springing from these automotive alliances: the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Automatic Pirelli and two new executions of the Excalibur Aventador S. The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Automatic Pirelli eschews the hallmark Pirelli colors in favor of a stark, black-and-white look. The newest edition of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli Automatic Skeleton — following up the red, blue, and yellow-highlighted models introduced earlier this year — is designed to evoke the look of racetrack tarmac with its black DLC titanium case and white highlights (another model is available with blue highlights), including the numerals on the bezel and the contrast stitching on the strap. The 48-mm case features the fluted bezel emblematic of the Excalibur collection and the overmolded black DLC crown with white rubber coating, along with the triple openworked lugs that anchor the watch to its bi-material strap — here, as on preceding Pirelli models, boasting an exterior surface constructed of rubber from actual Pirelli tire rubber from race-winning cars over an interior layer made of a softer rubber enhanced with a Pirelli tire tread pattern. The Roger Dubuis Caliber RD820SQ is powered by a micro-rotor visible from the front and back of the movement. The skeletonized movement, Caliber RD820SQ, is designed from scratch (as opposed to being an existing movement skeletonized after the fact) and incorporates the now-familiar “star” motif seen in all the Spider models, with the tips of the five-pointed star also serving as hour pointers. It’s powered by a micro-rotor that delivers winding power (and a 60-hour power reserve) equivalent to that of a larger central winding rotor despite its reduced weight and openworked structure. Composed of 166 meticulously hand-finished components, including NAC-coated plates and bridges, the movement has been awarded the prestigious Geneva quality hallmark, the Poinçon de Genève — a distinction shared by all Roger Dubuis movements. The watch will be a limited edition of 88 pieces. The star-shaped bridges in the movement serve as hour indicators. Named after Lamborghini’s flagship high-performance roadster, the Excalibur Aventador S Pink Gold is offered in a new case measuring 45 mm in diameter and combining a multilayer carbon and titanium middle and back with a notched Excalibur bezel made of rose gold. Like its predecessors in the brand’s recently launched Lamborghini series, it is outfitted with a highly skeletonized movement, Caliber RD103SQ, which takes design cues from an Aventador S engine. Rose gold is also used for the hour indices, while the hands are made of black-coated gold with luminous SLN-filled tips. The rose-gold crown is overmolded in black rubber. The movement in the Excalibur Aventador S is inspired by a Lamborghini engine. The hand-wound movement, on display through sapphire crystals in the front and back of the watch, is made up of 312 components, including 48 jewels, and features a double sprung balance and power reserve of 40 hours. The movement is distinguished by engine strut bars inspired by Roger Dubuis’s Astral Skeleton motif, and evoking the look of an engine under an open hood. Echoing the performance-enhancing longitudinal placement of Lamborghini engines, the double balance wheel is inclined at a similar angle, supported and highlighted by holders shaped like triangular wheel suspension assemblies. It is, of course, also certified with the Poinçon de Geneve. This watch is also mounted on a bi-material strap with a quick-release system for easy changeability; here the materials are a black rubber base and an inlay made of Alcantara, the same material used in the cockpit seats of Lamborghi cars. The strap closes with a black DLC-coated titanium folding buckle. The Aventador S Pink Gold is limited to 28 pieces. The other new Aventador model, the Aventador S Blue, shares all the technical and design attributes of the Pink Gold edition, but is even more closely connected to Lamborghini DNA, with a case constructed from the same C-SMC carbon used on actual Lamborghini cars. Its bimaterial strap has a black-and-Neptune-blue color scheme, blue rubber over-moulding on the case and crown, and blue markings on the fluted carbon bezel. Roger Dubuis also announced at its SIHH press conference that it will take over as a sponsor of the Super Trofeo Championship 2018, a Lamborghini-only series of races, replacing the previous watch-brand sponsor, Blancpain.
  6. Roger Dubuis introduced its Excalibur Skeleton Flying Tourbillon — the technical chef d’oeuvre of its “Year of the Skeleton” — at SIHH 2015. This summer, the Swiss brand introduces a limited edition of the watch, available exclusively at its recently opened New York City boutique. Roger Dubuis is well-regarded as a pioneer in skeletonized watch movements, opting to design them in an openworked style from the ground up, rather than employing the typical method, used by most brands, of skeletonizing an existing movement. It is also noted for the fact that all of its watch movements are stamped with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève (Hallmark of Geneva), a quality seal awarded by an independent bureau in Geneva that judges movements on 12 criteria. The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon takes the openwork motif a few steps further than most watches in the collection, using skeletonization techniques not only on the movement — manual-wind Caliber RD505SQ — but also for the case, flange, and hands. The “Spider” reference is to the movement’s complex, sculptural, spiderweb-like architecture, which also incorporates the off-centered “star” motif that characterizes all Roger Dubuis skeleton calibers. Another design motif of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur line is also present, namely the tourbillon carriage in the shape of a Celtic cross. The movement, made up of 179 parts and holding a power reserve of 60 hours, earns its Geneva Hallmark with an array of high-end finishes, including a circular-grained plate and côtes de Genève decoration. The flying tourbillon, placed near the 7 o’clock position, makes one rotation per minute. The titanium case is 45 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 50 meters. The black flange features a transfer minute scale and Roger Dubuis logo; the gold hands are treated with black DLC. The Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon Americas edition, which is limited to just 20 pieces, comes on a white rubber strap with titanium folding clasp (the original model was on a black rubber strap), and also distinguishes itself from its predecessor with red and yellow accents on the dial and flange. The watch, available solely at the Roger Dubuis boutique on 545 Madison Avenue in New York, retails for $167,500.
  7. Flashing back to one of the past year’s biggest milestones in the watch-collecting world, Patek Philippe‘s “Art of Watches” Grand Exhibition in New York, WatchTime offers a look at some of the most notable wristwatches from the company’s 178-year history. Read on to discover WatchTime.com’s top five. For the complete list of 24 milestone Patek Philippe watches, you can download the full article from the WatchTime Shop. 1. First Patek Philippe Wristwatch (1868) In 1868, Patek Philippe began production of its first wristwatch: an ornate affair with a baguette-shaped, key-wound movement called Caliber 27368. It had a cylinder escapement and eight jewels. The watch’s case and bracelet were made of yellow gold. The dial was protected by a hinged cover adorned with large diamonds; more diamonds flanked both sides of the dial. In 1873, Patek Phillipe delivered the watch to the Countess Koscewicz of Hungary. The watch is now in the company’s museum. 2. First Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch (1925) That this, the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch, ever came to be is due chiefly to chance. Patek Philippe originally made the movement, which bears the number 97975, for a women’s pendant watch. Completed in 1898, the watch found no takers despite one interesting feature: its calendar hands jumped instantaneously to the next day at the stroke of midnight, rather than creeping forward slowly, as on conventional calendar watches. The watch stayed on the shelf until 1925, when the growing popularity of wristwatches inspired Patek Philippe to put the movement into a wristwatch case. The watch was finally sold on Oct. 13, 1927. 3. Reference 2441 “Eiffel Tower” (1948) This watch, Reference 2441, earned the nickname Eiffel Tower from its lugs, whose flared shape and squared-off ends bring to mind the tower’s bottom section. The watch, launched in 1948, was powered by Caliber 9-90, a tonneau-shaped movement that Patek Philippe launched in 1934. Reference 2441 is a favorite with collectors, thanks in part to its distinctive and flamboyant case. In 1997, Patek Philippe paid homage to that case. To mark the inauguration of its new factory and headquarters in Geneva that year, the company brought out a limited-edition watch with a rectangular case with flared lugs like those on the Eiffel Tower. The new watch also had a name inspired by architecture: the Pagoda. 4. Reference 3700 Nautilus (1976) In the 1970s, when quartz technology was gaining steam, mechanical-watch makers were eager to retain, or regain, consumers’ attention. For Patek Philippe, the Nautilus, introduced in 1976, and designed by the famous Gérald Genta, was a way to do so. At 42 mm in diameter, it was huge by the standards of the day, and had an unusually shaped, water-resistant (to 120 meters) steel case with two odd, ear-like projections on either side. But the most notable feature of Reference 3700, as the first Nautilus was designated, was its price: $2,350. At the time, steel luxury watches were still a rarity. For Patek Philippe, until then known exclusively for its precious-metal dress watches, a chunky, steel sports watch with an eye-popping price tag was news indeed. The watch was not an immediate hit, but later became one, earning the nickname “Jumbo” among collectors. 5. Sky Moon Tourbillon, Reference 5002 (2001) The Sky Moon Tourbillon, Reference 5002, was the most complicated wristwatch Patek Philippe had ever made. It was also the company’s first two-faced wristwatch. One side shows the time and a perpetual calendar, including a retrograde date indicator, day and month subdials, a moon-phase display and leap-year indicator. The watch’s other side shows sidereal time, a star map of the night sky and the angular motion of the moon. The tourbillon is not visible, but its presence is heralded by the word “tourbillon” inside the month subdial. The watch also has a minute repeater. The movement, which is manually wound, has 686 parts. When it was introduced, in 2001, the Patek Philippe Sky-Moon Tourbillon was priced at SF950,000 for the yellow-gold version shown here. To read the entire list of 24 milestone Patek Philippe watches, including the stories behind iconic watches such as the first automatic-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch, the world’s thinnest split-seconds chronograph, and modern-day classics like the new Nautilus and Gondolo.
  8. It was in 1904, when pocketwatches were still in style for gentlemen, that pioneering aviator and bon vivant Alberto Santos-Dumont approached his friend, Louis Cartier, about fashioning for him a timepiece that he could wear, and check the time, while keeping both hands on the controls of his aircraft. The watch that Cartier made for Santos-Dumont, with its distinctive square bezel, is not only regarded by most historians as the first men’s wristwatch; it was also the progenitor of today’s Cartier Santos, one of the watch-and-jewelry giant’s most enduring and influential timepiece collections. This year, at SIHH 2018, Cartier unveiled a revamped Cartier Santos collection for the modern era. The new Cartier Santos de Cartier collection features more streamlined cases. At first glance, the new Santos de Cartier models look very much like their predecessors: the square-shaped bezel, inspired by Parisian architectural design of the era, remains intact, along with the bezel’s eight visible screws and the dial’s elegant Roman numerals. But a closer look reveals a sleeker, more ergonomic case and bezel shape, and one that flows more seamlessly from the lugs to the straps and bracelets. Cartier Santos de Cartier in steel on bracelet The watches’ more ergonomic case curves are designed for improved wearing comfort. About those straps and bracelets: they represent another decidedly modernized feature of the new Santos watches, and one that has become a growing trend among luxury watchmakers. They are engineered with Cartier’s new patent-pending QuickSwitch system, which enables the wearer to simply press a hidden button to quickly remove and replace each bracelet or strap. Other brands, like Vacheron Constantin and Hublot, have introduced similar self-strap-changing technology, but Carter goes them one better with another patent-pending mechanism, called SmartLink, which it uses on its metal bracelets. This allows a Santos wearer to re-size his watch easily without using a tool (or paying a watch repairman to do it for him). At the touch of a button located on each link, its attachment bar is unlatched and the link can be added or removed. Cartier Santos de Cartier in two-tone steel and gold on brown leather strap Cartier’s QuickSwitch system enables easy changing of bracelets and straps without the need for a tool. The m0vement inside the case (two sizes are available, 35.1 x 45.9 and 39.8 x 47.5) is also decidedly contemporary: Cartier ‘s self-winding Caliber 1847 MC (the numeral represents the year of Cartier’s founding), which features anti-magnetic nickel phosphorus components in the escapement and movement mechanisms, along with a shield made from a paramagnetic alloy. Together, they render the movement effectively resistant to the powerful magnetic fields a watch encounters during daily wear. Cartier Santos de Cartier in rose gold on bracelet In addition to the models outfitted with the automatic 1847 MC caliber, Cartier is offering skeletonized versions of the new Santos, powered by another in-house-manufactured movement, the manual-winding Caliber 9619 MC, which is notable for the large Roman numerals (specifically the “III,” “VI,” “IX” and “XII”) formed by its bridges. The Cartier Santos de Cartier Skeleton is available in both steel (above) and rose-gold (below). The new Cartier Santos de Cartier is offered in steel, rose gold, and two-tone models with steel cases and rose-gold bezels. All are water-resistant to 100 meters and feature sapphire crystals in the casebacks to view the mechanical movements. Prices range from $6,250 (for the medium-sized model in steel on a strap) to $43,200 (for the large rose-gold model on a rose-gold bracelet). The skeleton versions, both in 39.8 mm x 47.5-mm cases, are $25,300 in steel and $60,000 in gold.
  9. Rado’s new releases for 2016 have embraced the concept of lightness and streamlined, minimalist design. Perhaps best embodying this “less is more” aesthetic are this trio of new timepieces from the brand’s True Thinline collection, with three monochromatic color schemes. Rado describes the designs of the new True Thinline models as “stripped to their barest essentials,” with the dials adorned with nothing but an hour and minute hand and a Rado logo — no indices, subdials, seconds hand, or design flourishes. Available in three colors — black, white, and a gunmetal gray color the brand refers to as “plasma” — the watches all have cases made of high-tech ceramic (Rado has long been recognized as a pioneer in using this light-but-sturdy, scratch-resistant material in watchmaking), measuring 39 mm x 43.3 mm in diameter and a wafer-like 4.9 mm thick. The watch weights just 82 grams. The monobloc ceramic cases — made of solid ceramic in a special process that eliminates the need for a stainless steel core, as in other ceramic watch cases — are all polished, while the dials and flanges have a sunray finish. The sapphire crystals are curved; the winding crowns and three-link bracelets on each watch are made of the same polished ceramic as the case. Continuing the lightweight theme, the bracelets fasten with three-fold buckles made of titanium. The Rado True Thinline is outfitted with the incredibly thin quartz caliber 9 ETA 210.001, which is just 1 mm thick and ticks behind a solid, sandblasted titanium caseback. The retail price for the black (Ref. 140.0741.3.018) and white (Ref. 140.0957.3.001) versions is $2,100; the plasma model is $2,200.
  10. Parmigiani Fleurier is “shaping up” its emblematic Kalpa watch collection at this year’s SIHH, launching three new models and outfitting each of them, for the first time since the Kalpa’s 2001 debut, exclusively with in-house movements that are shaped to perfectly fit the dimensions of the watches’ tonneau cases. Here’s what you should know about the new Kalpa Chronor, Kalpagraphe Chronometre, and Kalpa Hebdomaire. The Kalpa Chronor has a rose-gold case and a bi-level black dial. Michel Parmigiani, founder of the eponymous brand, created the first tonneau-shaped movement, Caliber PF110, in 1998, encasing it in the first Parmigiani Kalpa wristwatch. The movement was notable, especially in that era, not just for its unconventional shape but also its eight-day power reserve and excellent rate regularity, while the watch turned heads, as it does today, with its tonneau case, teardrop-shaped lugs, smoothly integrated straps and bracelets, and Delta-shaped hands. All these stylistic hallmarks can still be found on the new Kalpa, which has since expanded to become a flagship collection of the Parmigiani brand, but now some models from that collection that had heretofore been fitted with traditional round movements have been upgraded with all-new shaped movements that snugly hug the interior curves of the ergonomic tonneau cases. The Kalpa Chronor, one of two chronograph-equipped watches in the collection, features the watch world’s first self-winding, integrated chronograph movement made almost entirely from solid gold, the COSC-certified Caliber PF365. Six years in its development, the movement beats at a speedy 36,000 vph (5 hz) inside the watch’s 48.2-mm x 40.4 mm hand-polished rose-gold case. It holds a power reserve of 65 hours and its integrated chronograph mechanism — which, due to the balance’s high frequency, can measure elapsed times to 1/10 second —uses a column wheel and a vertical clutch. Its variable inertia balance, held in place by a cross-through bridge, improves overall stability and shock-resistance. Gold, of course, is a far more malleable metal than those usually found in watch movements, so the skeletonization and decoration of the plates and bridges presented an enormous challenge for the watchmakers in Fleurier. Parmigiani’s all-new Caliber PF365 is the first automatic chronograph movement made of gold. Visible behind a wide, tonneau-shaped sapphire window in the caseback, Caliber PF365 shows off all of its gilded charms, including the 22k gold rotor, adorned with the barleycorn guilloche motif that has, like the teardrop lugs and Delta hands, become a Parmigiani hallmark. On the front side of the watch, a black bipartite dial, also made of gold, features an opaline center surrounded by a tachymeter scale and a hand-worked braid-effect guilloché motif on its outskirts. The chronograph subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock have a snailed finish and a gold coloring, while a golden outline surrounds the date window at 12 o’clock. The Delta-shaped hands are luminous-coated and the rose-gold indices are faceted. The black alligator strap, culminating in a rose-gold folding clasp, is from Hermès. The other new model with an integrated chronograph movement, the Kalpagraphe Chronomètre, is fronted by another multilevel dial in Parmigiani’s striking “Abyss” blue color and houses inside its 18k rose-gold case the new, shaped Caliber PF362. The case is hand-polished and sports the same measurements (48.2 mm x 40.4 mm) as the Chronor, while the movement has most all of the same attributes of the PF365 — COSC chronometer certification, 65-hour power reserve, 36,000-vph frequency, column-wheel chronograph, automatic winding — minus the solid gold components, the exception of course being the 22k gold, barleycorn-guillochéd rotor. The opaline center on this one’s dial is surrounded by a radial-guilloché pattern on the flange… The Kalpagraphe Chronométre (above) is powered by the tonneau-shaped Caliber PF362 (below). The Kalpa Hebdomaire is the only one of the new trio outfitted with a manual-winding caliber, more specifically an updated version of the original Caliber PF110, the granddaddy of all of these new barrel-shaped movements. The original’s eight-day power reserve, stored in two series-mounted barrels, remains intact, while several next-generation haute horlogerie flourishes have been added, including côtes de Genève’ finishing, bevelled bridges, and circular-graining – all of which, of course, can be observed through the sapphire caseback as the balance beats at 21,600 vph (3 Hz). Here we find another hand-polished 18k rose-gold case, a multilevel black dial with an opaline-finished center, small seconds counter, and weekly power reserve scale, and a braid-effect guilloché flange. Luminescent Delta-shaped hands tell the time on hand-applied, faceted indices — also luminous — and along the railway-track minute scale. The date display at 12 o’clock includes Parmigiani Fleurier’s signature bright red “1” numeral. The 42.3 mm x 32.1 mm case is water-resistant to 30 meters and is mounted on a black Hermès black alligator strap with a rose gold folding buckle. The Kalpa Hebdomadaire (above) contains a new version of Michel Parmigiani’s Caliber PF110 (below) Prices are $85,000 for the Kalpa Chronor, $35,000 for the Kalpagraphe Chronometre, and $32,500 for the Kalpa Hebdomaire.
  11. While it is best known for the many variations on its classic Luminor and Radiomir collections, Panerai has dabbled, pretty impressively in some cases, with highly complicated, highly limited timepieces, as witness the brand’s Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater GMT from 2016, for example. However, the one complication that the Florentine brand had never produced, amazingly enough, is a moon-phase. That changes this year, with the introduction of the L’Astronomo, unveiled this week during SIHH 2018. And, in distinct Panerai fashion, a moon-phase isn’t all it offers. Not by a long shot. The Panerai L’Astronomo is the first Panerai timepiece with a moon-phase. The watch, whose full moniker is L’Astonomo – Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT – 50 mm — is not only the first Panerai watch equipped with a moon-phase indication but also features the brand’s patented tourbillon regulator, a GMT function, and an inventive new date display that uses polarized crystals. It follows up the first timepiece called L’Astronomo, introduced in 2010, which combined a tourbillon, a calendar, an equation-of-time indication and a sunrise/sunset display and, like this new model, was intended as a tribute to Galileo Galilei. All the features included in the original L’Astronomo are present in the new one, plus the GMT, moon-phase, and new date system, all driven by the skeletonized movement, Panerai’s P.2005/GLS (the initials stand for Galileo Luna Scheletrato). Like its predecessor, this L’Astronomo is made-to-order only, which means each watch is built to ensure that the moon-phase indication always relates to the sky over the owner’s geographic location. The moon-phase indicator is placed on the back of the movement, Caliber P.2005.GLS. To start with the newness, i.e., that moon-phase, it is truly different from any we’ve seen previously — located on the back of the movement, incorporating a day-night indicator, and composed of two superimposed disks that rotate in concert with each other. The upper disk, which is read by a small external index fixed onto the movement – displays the day’s 24 hours, showing the sun during daylight hours and a starry night sky for the nighttime. night. At the center of the star field is a round aperture through which the lower disk, with its photo-realistic moon, can be seen, changing its phase ever so slightly by about 6.1° per day, matching the exact duration of one lunar cycle, or an average of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds. In layman’s terms, all this adds up to a moon-phase display that needs no adjustments for 122 years. The L’Astronomo ‘s moon-phase display is coordinated with the motion of the lunar cycle. As mentioned above, each watch’s movement is customized for the owner’s home coordinates and even takes into account the difference between the earth’s northern and southern hemispheres. The sunrise and sunset time indications are connected to this home time zone and will continue to show them accurately when the owner travels out of his home time zone, which is indicated by a GMT hand. Panerai’s linear equation-of-time indicator at 6 o’clock displays the difference between actual time (solar time) and conventional time on each day, which can range between plus- and minus-15 minutes, according to the time of year. All of these lunar and astronomical functions, of course, hearken back to the pioneering genius of Galileo-like Panerai, a product of Florence, Italy. The linear equation of time indicator measures the difference between solar time and conventional time. Caliber P.2005/GLS features Panerai’s patented tourbillon regulator system — visible from the front and back of the watch thanks to the skeletonization of the movement — in which the rotation of the tourbillon differs from that of the traditional type. In a classical tourbillon, the balance cage rotates continuously on itself, canceling out any variations caused by gravity and possible shocks. In Panerai’s mechanism, the cage rotates on an axis that is perpendicular, not parallel, to that of the balance. Additionally, the cage in Panerai’s system rotates every 30 seconds, rather than once per minute as in most other tourbillon movements. This rapid rotation is visible in the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock. According to Panerai, the greater speed and particular arrangement of the mechanism enable the regulator to compensate for rate changes more effectively, thus ensuring ideal timekeeping accuracy. As the watch has no traditional dial, all the elements which would be found on the dial appear on the movement or the flange, and the two spring barrels, which hold the watch’s four-day power reserve, are visible through the caseback, which enables the wearer to read the power-reserve indicator mounted on the movement. The patented tourbillon’s 30-second rotation is visible on the 9 o’clock subdial. Finally, about that date display: a traditional date disk would have had to obscure or cover too many parts of the skeletonized movement, so the horological brain trust at Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee at its manufacture in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, came up with a new, patent-pending system in which the date disk is made of borosilicate glass and the numbers of the days have laser-modified optical properties. The resulting visual effect renders the date numerals virtually invisible until they are aligned with the date window, where another polarized crystal, situated above the date disk, brings the number into sharp, readable focus. The date numerals are on borosilicate glass disk and made legible under a polarized window. All these Galilean goodies are packed into a 50 mm brushed titanium case with Panerai’s hallmark crown protecting bridge device; each owner can modify the case’s finish, the color of the hands and the Super-LumiNova applied to them and the indices, and the color of the alligator strap. Prices, as one would assume, are upon request.
  12. To most historians, the year 1968 was defined mostly by tragedies and setbacks — the assassinations of Robert Kennedy and Martin Luther King, the escalation of the war in Vietnam, unrest and protests on college campuses — but to students of horological history, the year offered some bright spots. One of these was undoubtedly Jaeger-LeCoultre’s introduction of the now-famous Memovox Polaris, a diving watch with a mechanical alarm. That iconic timepiece is the inspiration for the Swiss brand’s headliner release at SIHH 2018: the new Polaris collection, comprising five new models. Here’s what we found out about them. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic on steel bracelet Available in the new range are a three-hand automatic; a chronograph; a chronograph with world-time function; and two models that most closely channel the look and feel of the original 1968 model, the Polaris Date and the Polaris Memovox. The collection is unified — despite the inclusion of two complications that were never associated with the original Polaris Memovox — by several elements that call back to that ’68 vibrating diver. Each dial consists of three concentric circles with contrasting finishes: sunray in the center, graining on the outer circle with its vintage-inspired Arabic numerals, and opaline for the rotating inner rotating bezel flange. That rotating flange, and the second crown that operates it, is the other major feature from the historical model that unites the new family, which is in a sense an extension of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s limited-edition “Tribute to Polaris” model from a few years ago. The hands are large and luminous-coated, and the indices have a trapezoidal shape that echoes those on the original Polaris. The Polaris Automatic is the simplest of the new models, with just a three-hand time display and no date, offered in a stainless steel case with alternating brushed and polished finishes and measuring a contemporary 41 mm in diameter. Its inner rotating bezel has a diving-inspired scale (though it’s bi-directional rather than unidirectional, so best not to actually use it for diving). Inside is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s automatic 896/1, with a 40-hour power reserve. The dials are in black or “ocean” blue, and the watch is available on either a leather strap or a newly designed three-link steel bracelet with a new folding buckle. Prices on the Automatic range from $6,600 to $7,600. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic with ocean blue dial and brown leather strap In a slightly larger case size (42mm), the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph is the sportiest of the collection, as well as the only model offered in a precious metal case. Its inner rotating bezel features a racing-inspired tachymeter scale, and the chronograph pushers have been engineered to ensure an ideal grip. The classic bi-compax dial features a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock. The timekeeping and the stopwatch are driven by another self-winding movement (like all JLC movements, made in-house), Caliber 751, which is visible through a sapphire caseback and holds a 65-hour power reserve. The steel models are available with black or blue dials, while the sole rose-gold model, on a brown leather strap, is fronted by an anthracite dial. The rose-gold Polaris Chronograph is also distinguished by its movement’s solid gold rotor. Prices range from $10,000 to $10,900 in steel and $24,500 in rose gold. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph is available in steel (above) or rose gold (below). Another case material, titanium, makes an appearance in the range’s largest and most complicated model, the Polaris Chronograph WT, a traveler-friendly watch whose second crown (at 10 o’clock on this model) controls an inner rotating city disk with 24 world cities representing the world’s 24 major time zones. (This is, of course, in addition to the two chronograph pushers to operate the built-in stopwatch.) The wearer simply rotates the disk to see at a glance what time it is anywhere in the world. The movement powering all of this functionality is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s manufacture Caliber 752, with automatic winding and a 65-hour power reserve. Ocean blue and black dials are available on this one, also. The prices are $14,500 on calf leather, $14,600 on alligator leather. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT (above) and its self-winding movement, Caliber 752 (below) The final two members of the new family are designed to pay the closest homage to the original. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date, while not encasing a mechanical alarm like its famous predecessor, is about as faithful a replica as you’ll find in terms of aesthetics. This model’s trapezoidal indices are treated with a vanilla-colored Super-LumiNova meant to evoke the aged look that the tritium-treated indices of those early Polaris watches now sport. The case is stainless steel, 42 mm in diameter, and has a box-shaped crystal over the dial like the historical model; also like the vintage piece, its caseback is solid and features an engraved Scuba diver’s helmet, and its dial has a date window at 3 o’clock (a feature left off of the new Polaris Automatic). Behind that engraved caseback beats Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Caliber 899/1, with a 38-hour power reserve. As the 1968 Memovox Polaris was designed as a serious diver’s watch, this tribute model boasts a 200-meter water resistance (as opposed to 100 meters in the previously discussed models). It is available on a new rubber strap with a clous de Paris pattern, which is perhaps better for diving than the original’s leather strap. It is priced at $7,750 on a strap and $8,700 on a steel bracelet. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date on the new rubber strap Finally, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox, which is a limited edition of 1,000 pieces, channels most directly the spirit of the original timepiece, containing a crown operated mechanical alarm function driven by the modern Caliber 956, a direct descendant of the very first self-winding alarm movement, created by Jaeger-LeCoultre, in the 1950s. This movement, which packs a 44-hour power reserve, ticks inside a 42-mm steel case that is water-resistant to 200 meters. Like the Polaris Date, it sports the vanilla-colored, “aged patina” luminous indices, the solid caseback with divers’ helmet engraving, and is available on either the patterned rubber strap or a steel bracelet; both versions are priced at $12,600. The Polaris Memovox is equipped with the mechanical alarm function made famous by its ancestor.
  13. Orient USA Free NATO Strap Promotion

    I prefer the steel strap
  14. Versus watch brand introduction

    can you offer some pictures