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EdgyGuyJide

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  1. EdgyGuyJide

    Hands-On The Yes Equilibrium

    In the world of bespoke quartz watches, the Yes Equilibrium may well be the Henry Graves Supercomplication. While decidedly a wrist watch, its large size and myriad features makes it something of an oddball, even among the Pro Treks, Fenixs, and Elementum Terras of the world. Highly in tune with the rhythms of the Sun and the Moon, the yes Equilibrium is a nerdy watch for a rather specific type of crowd, and from sunset to dawn, and everything thing in between, this incredibly niche product manages to be unique among a growing cavalcade of multi-role digital sport watches. The titanium case and bracelet of the Yes Equilibrium If you want to run a marathon, go with the Garmin Fenix, if you want a tough go-anywhere plastic fantastic, go with the Casio Rangeman. But if you want something truly unique, take a look at the new Equilibrium from Yes watches. The Equilibrium is strange, immensely complex, and unlike anything on offer today. How to read the dial of the Yes Equilibrium. The Equilibrium's button map. The natural space to start with this watch is its feature set, but honestly, it’s an insanely long list. If it has to do with the sun or the moon, the Yes Equilibrium has you covered. This solar-lunar functionality is complemented by a contingent of some 650 cities pre-programmed for latitude and longitude, allowing the Equilibrium to show a dial full of information specifically tuned to your nearest city. While not exclusive, these bits of information include time zone, local DST, lunar midnight and noon, morning twilight, moon phase, true midnight, solar zenith, moonrise, and evening twilight. I've included two Yes-sourced diagrams above, one explaining the dial display (left), the other explaining the button layout and function (right). It's a rather complicated thing, and the Equilibrium manages all of this information using a bespoke Yes V6 24-hour Solunar ana-digital quartz movement that is accurate to +/- 1 second per month. Functioning with a Swiss quartz movement, this custom digital module has been developed by Yes and is recharged via a clip-on USB cable, offering some 2-3 months of use on a full charge (indeed, I have not needed to charge it since it arrived a few weeks ago). The end result employs a titanium case that measures 48mm across, 17mm thick, and some 55mm lug to lug. It’s huge, with tall flanks, a bi-directional bezel, a sapphire crystal, a 24-hour scale of glowing T100 tritium tubes, and a wide digital screen beset with a single central 24-hour hand. The 48mm wide Yes Equilibrium on wrist. A 24-hour bezel for tracking a second time zone via the single 24-hour hand At 17mm thick, the Equilibrium is chunky but its titanium construction keeps it relatively lightweight. Four buttons flank the the titanium case, and the user interface, while certainly complicated, is not too difficult to learn and offers relatively simple access to the ability to change the local city as well as the controls for a variety of alarms, a chronograph, a timer, and a regatta timer, a compass, and a backlight (which looks great). With both a passive option in the tritium tubes (including the tube set at the end of the 24-hour hand) and an active option in the full backlight, the Equilibrium's low/no light visibility could not be better. With 25 T100 tritium tubes and an active backlight, the Equilibrium literally shines in the dark. At a reductive level, the Yes Equilibrium has a very specific set of skills and it is designed to offer its highly local information set anywhere in the world. Yes pre-configures the watch to your home city and then you can define up to nine away cities, allowing you to jump from one to the other at ease (the above image is set to my fourth away city, thus the "A4" is seen left of the time display). Whenever a new city is activated, all of the Equilibrium's many displays are quickly updated to the new location. Furthermore, if you're not near one of the available cities, the Equilibrium can be set manually for longitude, latitude, DST, and timezone. While the UI is complicated, much of the information is shown all at once on the unique dial display, so you're not cycling through menus to determine something like sunrise time or moon phase, it's always there. Furthermore, the simple time is actively shown on a digital display at 12. The Equilibrium is packed with features and settings, including seven possible operating languages, but despite this complexity, it does manage to function as a relatively simple watch. Whether by the 24-hour hand in the pitch black of night or with a glance at the digital display, the Equilibrium doesn't let its array of abilities get in the way of being a watch. Unique and undeniably nerdy, the Equilibrium is unlike any other watch I've encountered. On wrist, it's massive, but not unwearable. If you've ever worn a Casio Rangeman, then the Equilibrium is in the same vein but much more comfortable and similarly lightweight. The 24-hour bezel can track a second time zone against the 24-hour hand, but there are five bezels to chose from when ordering the Equilibrium, including AM/PM, Solunar, and more. The bezel selection is no less complicated than the watch itself, so I stuck to the easily understood 24-hour option. The titanium three-link bracelet is light and comfortable with a simple fold-over clasp, and Yes offers the option of leather, NATO, and silicone straps too. Yes watches has been around for a while and though the Equilibrium is their most ambitious product to date, it's still easily recognizable as a Yes design. The central single hand, digital display, and heavy focus on solar and lunar patterns is a very niche pursuit that Yes has arguably mastered. While I don't know of any job or role that needs all of this information at a glance, I used the Equilibrium several times to judge sunset timing for a handful of photoshoots. I often photograph cars and the soft light offered just before and just after sunrise or sunset is ideal for a variety of photography needs. With the Equilibrium, not only did I have sunrise and sunset at a glance, I also had indication of twilight, allowing me to easily plan the timing of a shoot. Functions, functions, and more functions - the Equilibrium even has a compass. While certainly a niche product that may or may not offer functionality for your day-to-day, the Yes Equilibrium is interesting within the broader scope of horology. The Equilibrium's movement is proprietary and its integration with the digital display, while at first seemingly complex, is not inelegant and it offers considerable data without the overload common to complex solar and lunar time displays or multi-function ana-digi designs. Sure, you might need to save the user's manual to your phone to help get into the flow, but I'd argue Yes has created something unique, both in its execution and its appeal. The full titanium three-link bracelet. The Equilibrium's case back shows its charging connection for the clip-on USB charging cable. Big in every dimension, the Equilibrium sits tall above my 7-inch wrist. Available polished, brushed, or with a black finish, the Yes Equilibrium starts at $695 on your choice of a NATO, silicone, or a leather strap (or $895 as seen here with the bracelet, plus a spare strap of your choosing). I'd argue that if the Equilibrium appeals to your specific type of watch nerdery, that is a remarkable value. Existing somewhere in the delta between the roughly $250 street cost of a good Casio Pro Trek and the $1,700 (and up) asking price for a Seiko Astron, the Equilibrium offers a unique design and array of features that marries old-school astronomy-obsessed horology with a modern and quirky blend of digital and analog watch design.
  2. You’re in store for a little bit of everything in this week’s roundup. There are a few watches with unique stories, a chronograph with no branding to be found on it whatsoever, and a rare 18k gold chronograph designed by Marc Newson. Like I said, a bit of everything. We also kept our eyes peeled for watches to steer clear of this week, and found a Rolex Explorer that you'd be best to stay away from. Tissot 15TL Chronograph The late 1930s and early 1940s gave birth to some of the most special pieces ever crafted. Brands like Patek Philippe, Omega, Universal Genève, and Heuer produced so many watches of note in that era that it's hard to keep track. If you’re not convinced that we're talking about a golden age, here’s further proof. Few can argue with the appeal of a well-made, multi-scale chronograph, especially one with a black dial in a steel case. This Tissot happens to be quite a stunning one, and in truly clean shape as well. Featuring a movement shared by Omega and Lemania, this 15TL-equipped Tissot is also unique in that its dial has a retailer signature, indicating it was originally sold at Barth Zürich. I could go on and on dissecting all sorts of potent details that make up this stunning chronograph, but the condition of this watch should be your main focus. Few watches its age have held up this well, and without coming in contact with the dreaded polishing wheel. It’s currently being offered by a dealer in Berlin for €13,500. Click here for the full listing. Rolex Ref. 6238 Pre-Daytona FAP As the Daytona market gets continually stronger with the passing of each and every day, many have turned their focus toward the watches that preceded them, the so-called Pre-Daytonas. While they may not have the same presence on the wrist that the more popular ref. 6263 or steel-bezel ref. 6265 may have, their restrained dials and smooth, non-engraved bezels afford them a more subdued, subtle aesthetic. If you were to spot this watch on the street, you might mistake it for a plain old ref. 6238 Pre-Daytona, but what we have here is a sleeper of sorts, given what you’ll find on its caseback. Engraved boldly is “FUERZA AEREA DEL PERÚ,” indicating that this example was given to a high-ranking official or pilot in the Peruvian Air Force. There are "FAP" Daytonas as well, with prices for those pushing six figures these days (and well exceeding that mark for special examples). This "FAP" Pre-Daytona is currently being offered for $60,000 by Alessandro Ciani. Click here to see the full listing. Ikepod Hemipode 18K Rose Gold Ikepod watches have become objects of design fascination due to their link to Marc Newson and the importance of their design and straps to the development of the Apple Watch. Now, some years after the Ikepod line of watches was ended, a group has decided to resurrect the company, however they will be doing so without Newson involved and will be starting out by introducing quartz watches instead of mechanical watches. Whether or not this will have any effect on the pre-owned Ikepod market is anyone's guess for now. This watch is a special example of a rare model made entirely in rose gold that features a chronograph, GMT function, and date register. It was made in only 10 numbered examples and this is number 10 (as you can tell from the caseback engraving). This watch is available from L.A.-based dealer Craft & Tailored for $8,850. Click here to see the full listing. Anonymous Gilt Dial Chronograph It’s often the name on the dial of a watch that determines a good part of its value, but this is not always the case, as indicated by watches like this. You’re looking at what’s commonly referred to as an "anonymous" or "sterile" watch, in that there is no branding to be found throughout the entire piece. This allows its wearer to focus solely on the core, tasteful design elements that make it so special, without unnecessary interruption. This piece is afforded a particularly beautiful presence on the wrist, thanks to its 36.5mm, unpolished clamshell case, and a pitch black gilt dial with big-eye registers, and scales aplenty. Apart from the reliable Venus caliber 175 at its core, the lack of branding leaves little to talk about with this one, other than the fact that it’s a classically stunning watch. As a daily wearer, this one would surely satisfy and then some. A collector is offering this piece via Chronotrader for $5,500. Click here to see the listing. Patek Philippe Ref. 3429 Calatrava Full Set For a moment, let’s stop to consider where the market is at. Basic, vintage sports tool watches with coronets on their dials are commanding in excess of $10,000 for clean examples of the matte dial variety. If you didn’t get in early enough, a nice Submariner or GMT-Master could now easily be out of grasp, but for the same money if not less, you can still get arguably more watch. Vintage Patek isn’t exactly the first place most think to look when in search of a relative deal, though some references still fly under the radar of most. References like the 3429, which are powered by beautifully finished, automatic calibers like the cal. 27-460. This caliber evolved from the brand’s first automatic caliber, the 12-600AT, which is what powered references like the famed, twice-baked enamel dial fitted ref. 2526. In comparison to the cal. 12-600AT, the cal. 24-460 has a few noteworthy upgrades, like a Gyromax balance wheel, a ball bearing, and a few extra jewels. Ultimately, we’re talking about a 35mm yellow gold Calatrava with an incredibly high grade movement, and all the original boxes and paperwork – all for less than a dive watch. I love a great vintage Submariner as much the next guy, but this classic time-only Patek certainly makes you scratch your head. This full set example of the ref. 3429 is being offered by an individual in Barcelona for $10,964. Click here to see the full listing. 1956 Omega With Chicago Tribune Dial & Engraving Market trends would suggest that a watch with a story is always a plus, and for obvious reasons. What we’ve got here isn’t exactly a grand complication from Patek that’s the former property of a royal family, but it is a watch with an interesting tale to tell in its own right. After 30 years of service at the Chicago Tribune, Michael Wren was given an automatic Omega by the paper in 1956, and the watch in question had the famous Tribune Tower featured proudly on its dial, along with an inscription on the back. After a little research, I’ve learned Mr. Wren was a foreman in the Tribune's mailroom, where he worked through the Great Depression, up until the early 1970s. Given that this was the watch he received in honor of three decades at the paper, you've gotta wonder what the retirement watch was. Admittedly, I don’t normally get too excited over gold-filled Omega watches with automatic bumper movements, but the direct connections it holds to one of the earliest news publications in the United States, the history of newspaper publishing, and early Gothic Revival architecture in Chicago make it just a cool piece. It’s currently being offered for $850 on eBay from a seller in Indiana, proving that a nice watch with an interesting story doesn’t have to break the bank. Click here to see the full listing. Buyer Beware: Rolex Ref. 6098 Explorer Rolex sports models fitted with gilt dials are a thing of beauty, but without fully knowing your stuff, it’s all too easy to get dealt a bad hand. While browsing through eBay, as one does, I came across a piece said to have its original dial, though it has anything but. With this Explorer, you’d be forgiven for mistaking it as the real deal if you didn’t know what’s what. It’s a ref. 6098, which is one of the early, bubbleback-style Explorer references, but its dial raises a great deal of red flags. While the photos aren’t the best, you can see that it has definitely been re-lumed. The spacing and typeface weight of the gilt lettering also seem a tad off, leading me to believe this is an entirely fake dial. This is a good lesson to look closely, and that if something looks too good to be true, it likely is.
  3. FAITHFUL COMPANION To mark the upcoming Chinese zodiac cycle for 2018, Chopard has unveiled a limited edition celebrating the Year of the Dog. Enough to start the year under the most favourable auspices! The Chinese New Year is a chance for watchmaking brands and craftsmen to express their skills on dials designed to celebrate the festivities. For the Year of the Dog, beginning on 16 February 2018, Chopard has chosen to highlight the delicate work of the master craftsman Minori Koizumi, who works for the Japanese imperial family. His work celebrates the age-old art of Urushi-e lacquer work, using resin taken from the tree of the same name. Here, the hand-made creation depicts an Akita Inu dog, a breed from the Land of the Rising Sun. The technique used adds relief to the scene. In a snow-filled decor, flowers and a dragonfly bring touches of bright colour. Numerous layers of lacquer of outstanding finesse are combined with the encasement of tiny iridescent particles to produce a finely nuanced picture. The L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dog dial has neither indices nor numerals, but dauphine-type hands made of pink gold. A self-winding movement beats at the heart of the 39.5mm-wide and 6.80mm-thick extra-flat case, which is also made of pink gold. The calibre L.U.C 96.17-L provides 65 hours of power reserve, in particular thanks to two barrels driven by a micro-rotor. You can see the traditional finishes, with guilloché and Geneva Waves patterns, through the crystal case back. 88 collectors will have the chance to wear this masterpiece on their wrists with a hand-sewn black alligator strap and a pink gold tang buckle.
  4. FAITHFUL COMPANION To mark the upcoming Chinese zodiac cycle for 2018, Chopard has unveiled a limited edition celebrating the Year of the Dog. Enough to start the year under the most favourable auspices! The Chinese New Year is a chance for watchmaking brands and craftsmen to express their skills on dials designed to celebrate the festivities. For the Year of the Dog, beginning on 16 February 2018, Chopard has chosen to highlight the delicate work of the master craftsman Minori Koizumi, who works for the Japanese imperial family. His work celebrates the age-old art of Urushi-e lacquer work, using resin taken from the tree of the same name. Here, the hand-made creation depicts an Akita Inu dog, a breed from the Land of the Rising Sun. The technique used adds relief to the scene. In a snow-filled decor, flowers and a dragonfly bring touches of bright colour. Numerous layers of lacquer of outstanding finesse are combined with the encasement of tiny iridescent particles to produce a finely nuanced picture. The L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dog dial has neither indices nor numerals, but dauphine-type hands made of pink gold. A self-winding movement beats at the heart of the 39.5mm-wide and 6.80mm-thick extra-flat case, which is also made of pink gold. The calibre L.U.C 96.17-L provides 65 hours of power reserve, in particular thanks to two barrels driven by a micro-rotor. You can see the traditional finishes, with guilloché and Geneva Waves patterns, through the crystal case back. 88 collectors will have the chance to wear this masterpiece on their wrists with a hand-sewn black alligator strap and a pink gold tang buckle.
  5. Parmigiani Fleurier is a relatively young brand as Swiss fine watchmaking houses go; the firm was founded in 1996, but quickly established a reputation for making very high quality watches with a distinctive design vocabulary that's rooted in elements of Classical architecture. The first watch produced by Parmigiani Fleurier was the Toric Memory Time (which we saw in June of last year on the wrist of founder Michel Parmigiani) and in recent years, the Toric case shape has been a vehicle for both highly complicated watches, and simpler time-and-date timepieces – the latter are offered with chronometer certification from the COSC (the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, which is responsible for the certification of watches as chronometers in Switzerland). The original Toric Memory Time, 1996. The COSC is probably the best known of the Swiss certification and control programs for wristwatches, either independent or brand-administered; however there are others. One was established in 2004 by watchmaking firms in Fleurier, Switzerland: Chopard, Bovet, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Manufacture Vaucher. This is the Foundation Qualité Fleurier (FQF), whose certification has been used on specific models by the founding brands, and which is also open to any Swiss watchmaker (not just those headquartered in Fleurier). The FQF's control and certification tests include certification by the COSC, but also include a battery of other tests, and Parmigiani Fleurier is now offering its Toric wristwatch with FQF certification. The Toric Qualité Fleurier. Initial Thoughts The Toric family of watches are, of all Parmigiani's collections, perhaps most strongly identified with the brand and the combination of the FQF certification with this design is a logical and attractive integration of the design with a Fleurier-centered external control – given the overall level of watchmaking at Parmigiani Fleurier, the certification is perhaps slightly a formality in certain respects but it's still an affirmation of the horological terroir of the region, as well as symbolically important. FQF certification consists of five requirements: two are stipulations regarding place of manufacture and quality of materials, and the remaining three are actual tests. First, the watch must be "entirely designed, produced, assembled and tested in Switzerland, with each component accompanied by a certificate of origin. This criterion substantially exceeds the requirements of the widely used 'Swiss Made' label, which can be met without meaningful testing provided 60% of the watch head has been produced in Switzerland." Second, only traditional materials may be used (plastics are forbidden). Third, the movement is certified by the COSC as a chronometer. The fourth and fifth tests are the Chronofiable test, and the Fleuritest. The first simulates six month's wear and tear, including manipulation of the crown and pushers (if any) as well as reliability under exposure to magnetism, moisture, and shocks. The Fleuritest is a 24 hour simulated wear test, using a unique machine that simulates the movement of a watch through the day in daily use; to pass, accuracy must be within a tolerance of 0/+5 seconds per day. All this aside, the Toric Qualité Fleurier looks to be a very handsome watch, with a hand-engraved (not stamped) bezel and engine turned dial. It's a watch that, at $23,500, will appeal to anyone looking for a high-grade, chronometer certified Swiss watch that's a bit off the beaten track from the usual suspects, and which is perhaps more obviously a high-craft object than similarly priced watches from some of Parmigiani Fleurier's competitors. If you happen to have an opportunity to see one in person, it's worth making the time to do so – it's been my experience that the Toric watches are much better evaluated in person than in photographs. The Basics Brand: Parmigiani Fleurier Model: Toric Qualité Fleurier Reference Number: PFC422-1200100-HA1441, PFC422-1600100-HA1441 Diameter: 40.8mm Thickness: 9.5mm Case Material: 18k red or white gold Dial Color: Silver; "rice grain" guilloché Indexes: 18k rose gold Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Alligator strap made by Hermès The caliber PF331-QF, as found in the Toric Qualité Fleurier. The Movement Caliber: PF331-QF Functions: Time and date Diameter: 11.5 ‴ (approximately 25.6mm) Thickness: 3.5mm Power Reserve: 55 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph) Jewels: 32 COSC Chronometer Certified and Qualité Fleurier Certified Pricing & Availability Price: $24,500 Availability: Now available
  6. There are certain watches that have become legends of sorts amongst collectors and enthusiasts. One watch that is indisputably in that category is the Breitling Emergency. The watch is powered by an extremely accurate quartz movement and has a combination analog/digital display, but what really sets it apart is the concealed emergency locator beacon that is hidden behind a screw-down cap in the lower right lug. There have been a handful of stories about this unique watch actually being used in the field to save lives, but for most owners this feature remains dormant and unutilized for the duration of the watch's life. The result is that the specifics of exactly how this watch works can be a little confusing. Luckily, we've got Mr. Jason Heaton on our side, and he is a proud Emergency owner himself. The model he wears is the Emergency Orbiter 3, a special edition made in 2000 to commemorate the first non-stop circumnavigation of the Earth in a balloon. Like we said, this is a specific watch for a specific sort of person. In his in-depth report, Jason goes into the history of the watch, how it works technically, and why it's something anyone horologically inclined can and should appreciate. Even if you're not someone who find himself or herself out in the wilderness too much, this ought to get your blood pumping.
  7. EdgyGuyJide

    TUDOR 1926

    ORIGINS OF THE ROSE 1926 was a landmark year in the history of Tudor. The brand pays homage to this important date with a new collection of automatic steel timepieces at a reasonable price. Almost one century ago, in 1926, “The Tudor“ brand was registered in the name of Hans Wildorf (1881-1960), the founder of Rolex. In 1936 Rolex took over the brand and founded the Tudor Watch company in 1946. The brief for this new brand of watches was very clear: to design products of an equally high quality as Rolex models, but at more affordable prices. A promise that has been kept over time, as can be seen in the 1926 collection launched at Baselworld last March. This new family, named after Tudor’s launch year, is aimed at both men and women. It also caters for both slender and very robust wrists with four different steel case sizes (28, 36, 39 and 41mm). Some models adopt the two-colour trend that has been back in fashion for a few years now, dressing the bezel, crown and features such as the leaf-shaped hands and hour markers in rose gold. The dial is available in three fairly traditional colours: black, opaline and silver. At the centre there is an embossed pattern, a kind of counter-relief check, encircled by the smooth ring containing the minute track. The hour markers also vary in shape (Arabic numerals for the even numbers with triangular markers or brilliant-cut diamonds) and in colour (golden, silver or blue). Two self-winding movements drive the time functions (hours, minutes, seconds in the centre) and the calendar (date at 3 o’clock) in the 1926 watches: the calibre 2824 for the 36, 39 and 41mm models and the 2671 for the smallest version, supplying a power reserve of 38 hours. Price from 1,600 CHF to 2,750 CHF
  8. Movado Group has entered into an agreement to acquire MVMT, the popular, millennial-focused watch and accessories brand, for $100 million, or approximately "85 million net of tax benefits," Movado said in a press release. This is in addition to two future payments that could add up to an additional $100 million before tax benefits, depending on MVMT's future performance as part of Movado's portfolio. MVMT was founded in 2013 by Jacob Kassan and Kramer LaPlante, two California-based twenty-somethings who had a vision to sell affordable, stylish watches to people their own age. It's hard to argue with the success of that vision. Last year, MVMT achieved revenue of approximately $71 million, largely through a direct-to-consumer business model. Kassan and LaPlante will continue to operate MVMT under the structure of the deal. MVMT watches for men and women. "The acquisition of MVMT will provide us greater access to millennials and advances our Digital Center of Excellence initiative with the addition of a powerful brand managed by a successful team of highly creative, passionate and talented individuals," Movado Chairman and CEO Efraim Grinberg said in a statement. In addition to its namesake Movado brand, the group also owns Ebel and Concord, and holds licensing rights to make watches for several fashion marques, among them Lacoste, Tommy Hilfiger and Hugo Boss.
  9. What you see here is the latest in a line of watch collaborations between the New York-based American menswear designer (and HODINKEE Radio guest) Todd Snyder and Timex, arguably the best-known American-based watchmaker today. The design of this watch has been inspired by Snyder's visits to the extensive Timex archives, to which Snyder, as he said in his aforementioned 'Dink Radio appearance earlier this week, enjoys special access. What we have here is a 40mm quartz timepiece in stainless steel with two vintage (Timex says 1960s) inspired dial executions, one in cream and the other in black. Both have lots of lume on the hour markers as well as on the hour and minute hands, ensuring good legibility when transitioning from light to dark. And because this is Timex, the dial itself lights up thanks to Indiglo, which can be activated by pushing and holding the crown down. The straps feature quick-release pins, enabling easy strap changes too. Initial Thoughts While the innards of the watch in question are straightforward Timex quartz, the design is what makes this watch interesting and fun, particularly when you take into account the fact that it will set you back just $158. On unboxing these watches to write about them, I was impressed with their looks, and even more so when I read far enough down the press release to discover the price. Does the fact that there are tachymeter and telemeter scales on this watch with the absence of a chronograph bother me? A little, I guess. These are scales that belong on chronographs – not simple three handers – but this is a watch that is all about striking a certain look, and makes no claims about functioning as a proper tool watch. Its water resistance is 30 meters, after all. I wore the black version around the office for an hour or two, and it felt very nice on the wrist. I could see putting this guy on a great looking NATO strap and sliding it into my rotation through the end of summer and early fall. It's a fun watch with a cool design that won't cost you much – and sometimes that's plenty. The Basics Brand: Timex Model: Timex X Todd Snyder Beekman Watch Diameter: 40mm Thickness: 12mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Classic cream or brown Indexes: Numerals and hour markers Lume: Indiglo Night Light Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap The Movement Caliber: Quartz movement Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds Pricing & Availability Price: $158 Availability: From today at Todd Snyder's New York City flagship store at at toddsnyder.com
  10. MUSEUM STATE-OF-THE-ARTNESS Omega breathes new life into the first wrist-chronograph ever assembled in the manufacture by proposing its 1913-created model with a cutting-edge twist. Explanations. Riding the wave of everything vintage, the watchmaking industry has invited us to discover a myriad of limited series combining a case embracing the stylistic codes of a historic model, to a greater or lesser extent, and an ultra up-to-the-minute movement. Omega has reversed the trend by presenting a genuine timepiece from its original collection. With its First Omega Wrist-Chronograph Limited Edition, the brand reveals a watch incorporating a real hand-wound mechanical movement from 1913. The eighteen 18”’ CHRO calibres, equipped with a Breguet balance-spring, which make up this limited edition come from timepieces retrieved from the vaults of the brand’s museum. All were meticulously hand-restored pursuant to the rules of the craft and integrated into a 47.5 mm-diameter case which hosts cutting-edge components. To complement the white gold, SednaTM gold has been used on the crown and on the push-piece set at 6 o’clock. This alloy, comprising 75% gold, copper and palladium, stands out with its reddish colouring and enhanced durability. The case has been crafted with another exclusivity – a hinged back which, when opened, majestically reveals the calibre’s workings through the sapphire-crystal caseback. The white enamel dial is crafted with details inspired by yesteryear’s pilot watches. Large hollowed-out Arabic numerals are brushed over by blued Empire-style hands. A 15-minute chronograph counter housed at 2 o’clock offers highly-legible, easily-measured short-cycle time data. The 18 pieces of this limited series are delivered in a magnificent leather case along with two additional leather straps and useful tools for screwing and unscrewing the rivets which attach the straps to the lugs. Price: CHF130,000 omegawatches.com
  11. As a sort of 185th birthday present to itself and 50 of the brand's closest friends, Jaeger-LeCoultre has announced the Reverso Tribute Tourbillon Duoface, an ornate and limited edition expression of the brand's quintessential design. Not unlike the recent Reverso Tribute Gyotourbillon, this new model combines JLC's iconic Reverso design with a hit of their finest haute horology abilities. Initial Thoughts Unlike the Tribute Gyrotourbillon, the Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon uses a smaller Reverso case size, coming in at 27.4mm wide, 45.5 lug to lug, and just 9.15mm thick, despite sporting a flying tourbillon and the Duoface layout. For reference, that is smaller in every dimension compared to a standard Reverso Classic Large Duoface. Employing the new JLC caliber 847, the Reverso Tribute Tourbillon Duoface has a sixty-second flying tourbillon, which functions as a seconds display, alongside the Duoface functionality that allows the single movement to show a different time zone on each face. While certainly not new, I've always found this to be a clever use of the Reverso format and by the design's very nature it means you get two different watches in one. Much like with past top-tier Reverso models, JLC has opted for one more classic and elegant dial, and on the inverse, one that is much more ornate. While available photos are very limited (I included all that are available here), both dials look great. Furthermore, while I don't generally care for tourbillons, this one does rather suit the vibe of such an ornate Reverso. Limited to just 50 pieces, the Reverso Tribute Tourbillon Duoface carries a list price of $123,000. With so few being made and at such a considerable cost, it's doubtful this will be anyone's first JLC and only the most hardcore of Reverso fans need apply. The Basics Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre Model: Reverso Tribute Tourbillon Duoface Reference Number: Q3926480 Diameter: 27.4mm (45.5mm lug to lug) Thickness: 9.15mm Case Material: Platinum Dial Color: Blue Silver Water Resistance: 30m Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap The Movement Caliber: Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 847 Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon (with seconds), second time zone, day/night indication. Winding: Manually-wound Pricing & Availability Price: $123,000 Limited Edition: 50 pieces
  12. Ming, a Malaysia-based micro brand that manufactures watches in Switzerland, has been around for only a single year, but in that time it's made a name for itself among the horological cognoscenti through great word-of-mouth and by producing watches of unimpeachable value proposition, such as the $900 17.01 manual-wind, time-only watch. Ming was formed by six passionate watch collectors and is spearheaded by its namesake, Ming Thein. A physicist by training, Thein wears, and has worn, several hats besides running his year-old watch venture. He's a commercial photographer, the chief of strategy at Hasselblad, and a former M&A and private equity guy. And, of course, he's a watch collector. In its young life, Ming Watches has already released three core references: the time-only 17.01, the 19.01 with an upgraded 100-hour mechanical movement via Schwarz-Etienne, and the 17.03 GMT. In celebration of reaching the one-year mark in business, Ming is introducing two limited edition versions of its Sellita-based GMT. Technically speaking, these watches are very similar to the 17.03 that Jack first wrote about in February. The more interesting of the new limited editions is 17.03 Ultra Blue, which comes with a stunning grade 2 titanium case blued by hand by Ming Thein himself. Because each of these 25 pieces is blued by hand, no two are exactly the same, and will evince varying shades of purple, cyan, and dark blue. The crowns are hand engraved, and the luminous blue sector dial is fitted with Super-LumiNova-filled hands. Each watch comes with one Jean Rousseau Alcantara strap with a matching heat-blued titanium buckle. Ming includes two additional nubuck straps (anthracite and dark chocolate) as well as a travel pouch supplied by ThirtyFour Bespoke of Kuala Lumpur. Unfortunately, according to Ming, there's already a waiting list to get one of these watches. The Ming 17.03 Ultra Blue case is heat blued by hand by Ming Thein himself. The second limited edition, of which 125 will be made, is the Ming 17.03 Blue. With its standard grade 2 titanium case, it's decidedly less "Ultra" than the other new limited edition, but there is an option for a titanium quick-release bracelet. It also comes with two nubuck straps and a pouch by ThirtyFour Bespoke. Orders for these 125 pieces can be placed directly through Ming online starting today. Initial Thoughts The Ming 17.03 Blue has a more conventional grade 2 titanium case. From the moment I first saw a Ming watch about a year ago, when it was on Jack's desk for a review, the design caught my eye. If you look carefully at these watches, something you are bound to do if you end up buying one and wearing it, then you start to see the levels of detail that are built upon each other. I was impressed with – and I mean this as no slight to either brand – a look that struck me as something Laurent Ferrier might make if he were interested in crafting an affordable, ETA-based watch. The Ultra Blue is such an interesting watch because it is so unusual as to be unique in its price segment. Who else has made a blue metal case that looks anything like the Ultra Blue? DeBethune, perhaps? Alas, the Ultra Blue, with its CHF 2,500 price tag and limitation to 25 pieces, has already filled up its waiting list, so chances are you won't be getting one if you are reading this post. The 17.03 Blue, however, is available, and orders will be taken starting today. The Basics Brand: Ming Model: 17.03 GMT Ultra Blue and Blue Diameter: 38mm Thickness: 9.8mm Case Material: Fire blued grade 2 titanium or plain grade 2 titanium Dial Color: Blue Indexes: Luminous sector dial Lume: Hand and sector dial track Water Resistance: 100-meter water resistance Strap/Bracelet: 17.03 Ultra Blue: Jean Rousseau alcantara strap, nubuck strap with matching heat-blued buckle, two nubuck straps; 17.03 Blue: two nubuck straps and optional grade 2 titanium bracelet The sector dial is formed by luminous hour numerals connected to the track. The Movement Caliber: Sellita SW 330-1 GMT, top grade Functions: Hours, minutes, GMT Diameter: 25.6mm Power Reserve: 42 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph) Jewels: 25 Additional Details: While not chronometer certified, these movements are adjusted in five positions and subjected to a 250-hour internal testing program Pricing & Availability Price: CHF 2,500 (17.03 Ultra Blue:), CHF 1,525 (17.03 Blue with two straps), CHF 1,825 (17.03 Blue with two straps and matching bracelet) Availability: Available today (though the 17.03 Ultra Blue already has a waitlist) Limited Edition: 25 pieces (17.03 Ultra Blue), 125 pieces (17.03 Blue)
  13. PROTECTING THE DEEP SEA The brand is continuing its promise to support oceanic research with a limited series. The project’s third outing has just launched. The idea is simple. 1000 EUR of every watch sold is donated to support science expeditions. Just like the first edition that launched 4 years ago in 2016, Blancpain brings us 250 Fifty Fathoms watches for its Ocean Commitment project. The first two limited series were flyback chronographs but this time the manufacture wanted the new piece to be more in keeping with the original model from 1953. That means the reappearance of a 40mm steel case that’s water-resistant to depths of 300m. The time information is very clear. The chunky luminescent hands glide over a deep blue dial and track luminescent markers. The genuine diving tool features a unidirectional bezel so divers can see their dive time. A date display at 4.40 and the project logo at 6 completes the underwater picture. This year’s Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment III is powered by the 1151 calibre. This self-winding mechanical movement provides a comfortable 4-day power reserve. Anyone who buys one of these models joins the Blancpain Ocean Commitment Circle so you can take part in exclusive events and conferences about the science expeditions funded by the brand. It’s worth mentioning that this model comes with two straps: a sail canvas one and a NATO one. Price: 16,000 CHF blancpain.com
  14. This isn't exactly breaking news, but chronographs have become more and more popular with each passing year. Depending on which retailer you ask, you might even hear that they're outselling simpler time-only or time-and-date watches in some cases. The catch here is that finding an excellent chronograph on a more restrained budget can be challenging, as in-house chronograph movements are rare and often even ébauche-based chronographs are experiencing price creep. But, fear not, there are plenty of good options out there, and our editors have rounded up five that they think offer great value for money, compelling styling, and something to set them apart from the competition. Cara Barrett – Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph One chronograph that slipped through the cracks this year was the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph. The 1858 Automatic chronograph has a 42mm stainless steel case with round pushers and a dramatic black dial. The Arabic numerals are reminiscent of decades past and really add to the vintage flavor of this watch. The movement is the Sellita SW500, which is a reliable movement that is a good choice at this price point. It's attractive, well-made, and reliable, which is all you can really ask for in a chronograph. If you are feeling really fancy, you can splurge on the bronze version with a champagne dial for a few hundred dollars more. From $4,300; montblanc.com Jon Bues – Omega Speedmaster CK 2998 Pulsometer Any list such as this one that doesn't take a good hard look at current year Omega Speedmasters is, in my opinion, incomplete. Sure, this watch isn't totally brand new – it's the 2018 version of a popular series of vintage inspired limited-edition Speedies, this time with a pulsometer – but it does manage to channel and champion the purity and instrumentality that have long made the Omega Speedmaster a favorite of watch lovers. Not only could the CK 2998 Pulsometer be your only chronograph, it could also be your only watch, and you'd be doing just fine. It's a beautiful object tied to a wonderful and important chronograph lineage, and it's well under our $10,000 limit. $6,500; omegawatches.com Jack Forster – Habring² Doppel-Felix Split-Seconds Chronograph It's hard to argue with the Omega Speedmaster Professional as a perennial favorite for best chrono under $10,000 although it is – and this is a good thing – a field that currently has quite a few exciting possibilities, including the new Tudor Black Bay Chronograph, a number of pieces from Sinn, and many others. However, one of my personal favorites right now is the Habring2 Doppel-Felix Split-Seconds, which has an in-house rattrapante movement (based on the 7750 in broad outline, but drastically unlike anything you can get stock from ETA) and a really wonderful design that represents, I think, a lovely new direction for Habring. The great cosmetics aside, the movement is a real star here – beautifully designed and executed, and at this price, with no real competition. €7,750 (no date) and €8,250 (with date); habring2.com James Stacey – Sinn 103 SA BE LE While I'm really not a chronograph guy, in considering recently released options I really liked Sinn's Limited Edition 103 Sa B E. With a bright sunburst blue dial, lightly tanned lume, and a rich blue aluminum bezel, this 41mm chronograph looks great, especially on a creamy leather strap. The watch is limited to 500 units, and the 7750 ticking within is certainly not fancy, but the 103 Sa BE is a Sinn, so that conventional movement is put to work in a handsome and tough-as-nails watch that is entirely ready for everyday wear. $2,600; sinn.de Stephen Pulvirent – Breitling Navitimer 8 B01 Breitling is a brand that tends to elicit strong reactions from collectors. I have to admit, I haven't been the biggest fan of much of the brand's catalog over the last few years, but the Navitimer 8 B01 is a beacon of hope that we might be seeing something a little different under new leadership. The watch starts with Breitling's most famous chronograph as its foundation, but what we end up with in the end is a totally modern sports watch with an in-house movement and an appropriate dose of vintage style. The Navitimer 8 B01 doesn't go overboard with the heritage, instead keeping things simple and relying on the bold-yet-easy-going looks to catch your attention. This is a no-BS chrono with some real pedigree. From $7,600; breitling.com
  15. THE MOON CLOSE AT HAND Nearly two years after the launch of the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène, Parmigiani innovates by providing this poetic timepiece with a bouquet of stars. In 2016, Parmigiani, the watchmakers based in Fleurier, in the Swiss municipality of Val-de-Travers, introduced the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène. Its visually striking blue dial, decorated with a floral, mother-of-pearl motif, displayed an elegant moon phase in its upper part. Today, the brand has released a much more feminine and lyrical version of the timepiece: the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène Galaxy. While aesthetically the layout of the counters on the screen and the details that are the hallmarks of Parmigiani have stayed the same, the watch itself looks very different to its older sibling. The deep blue aventurine dial is inset with golden sequins, evoking a night sky scattered with stars. Two open-work Delta-shaped hands move around an hour rim featuring triangular, golden appliques to discreetly display the hours and minutes. A running seconds sub-dial with a crescent-moon-shaped counterweight follows a pearled circular scale. The lower part of the sub-dial opens onto a large date counter. Opposite, at 12 o’clock, a majestic moon phase holds sway. The copper-coloured queen of the night, partially hidden behind a navy-blue cloud, has a smooth surface where its famous craters are set. The various functions are driven by the calibre PF318, a mechanical movement running at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vibrations an hour) and with a double barrel (50 hours of autonomy). The mechanism is housed in a 33mm steel case topped with 72 diamonds that light up this watchmaking galaxy with their bright fires. Price: 16,200 CHF
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