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Everything posted by BuLlEt

  1. Hey Everyone, As some of you may or may not know, I am a huge fan of strap options for my watches and rubber is one of my favorites. I've seen several threads and comments lately on WUS and other forums about "Everest vs Rubber B" and I thought that I would try to shed some light on the topic since I own straps from both companies. Here is a comparative review to help anyone looking for a bit of variety for their Rolex watches. Packaging/Whats in the box? Each strap comes in its own brand specific envelope. The packaging for each brand is good quality and suits each strap well. I have to give the nod to Everest for going the extra mile to make their packaging hunter green and gold to match the Rolex packaging. It's a nice touch. Price: The Everest strap retails at $225 and the Rubber B is priced at $240. First Impressions: The first thing I noticed between the straps was a difference in feel and flexibility. Both straps are made of high-end Swiss rubber, but the Everest strap is a lot softer and more supple to the touch. The Everest strap is also more flexible and doesn't seem to need a "break-in" period. The second difference between the two is size. The Everest strap is curvier and a bit more robust while the Rubber B is thinner with sharper angles. Everest on the left/Rubber B on the right: Everest profile: Rubber B profile: Each strap also comes with a channel on the underside of the strap for increased breathability. However, the Everest channel is much deeper and runs along the entire strap. The channel is designed to help speed up the drying process when sweat and water get caught between your wrist and the watch. Everest channel: Rubber B channel: Install: I do not have any pics from the installation process, but the install is pretty straightforward on both straps. While neither strap is difficult to install, the design of the Everest strap makes it easier to lock the spring bar into the case. I found myself having to fiddle with the alignment of the Rubber B strap in order to get it to lock into place. On the wrist: Everest- The Everest strap is made of a super soft rubber and the angle at which it connects to the case allows the strap to follow the natural contours of the wrist. I've owned other straps in the past that shot straight down from the case rather than taking a more circular path. This always resulted in the watch case "floating" slightly above the wrist rather than sitting flush against it. The Everest strap left the Sub sitting firmly atop my wrist without any lift whatsoever. This design made for a very comfortable fit. Adjusting between the strap holes and removing the watch is VERY easy. The soft rubber makes it very pliable and enables the strap to glide between the buckle when adjusting or removing the watch. Aesthetically, the Everest strap is the more robust of the two. Its masculine and overbuilt characteristics make it well-suited for any Rolex sport watch. This image shows the wider angle of the Everest strap where it comes off the case. This enables it to wrap around the wrist naturally. Rubber B- While the Rubber B strap was comfortable, it was not quite as comfortable as the Everest. Although the Rubber B is a thinner design, the strap is not as soft or flexible. It also does not wrap naturally around the wrist like the Everest strap did right out of the box. I feel as though the Rubber B may get to that point after a break-in period. One issue I had with the Rubber B strap is that it felt a bit small on the wrist. I have a 7.5 inch wrist and found that the strap was a bit too short for me. I like my straps with a bit of tail which is something I have grown accustomed to from all my Panerai straps. Adjusting the strap was a bit more difficult because the rubber isn't as soft. I have to tug a bit to get the pin to dislodge from the hole. Not a big deal, but it was something I noticed. One thing I did like about the Rubber B strap was its look. It is a good looking strap just like its competitor. Its thinner profile and sharper lines give it a different type of appeal than the larger and more robust Everest. This image shows how the Rubber B strap comes almost straight down from the case. Final Thoughts: Deciding between these two straps can be difficult, especially for those who haven't handled them in person. Most people base their decision solely on aesthetics. Personally, I like to base my decision on style, ease of use, and comfort. While both companies offer a great looking strap, one of them is superior in all other aspects. For my money, I choose Everest.
  2. Best advice - increase the budget
  3. Excellent review, beautiful, elegant looking watch.
  4. Hi. I was recently looking for a watch that wasn't a dress watch in the strictest sense (thin, white dial, bar or Roman numerals, no complications, etc) but is formal. My search narrowed down to Datejust, Aqua Terra, maybe the Portofino, a few Longines, etc. I passed by a local Rolex dealer to see a Datejust in person, and I did not like how it looked. The 36mm was not so thin that it felt like a small watch, and the indices and the writing looked cramped inside the small dial The 41mm was a good size but the bezel looked too humongous. The 39mm are just not my thing. I don't like how they added the coloured squares above the hour markers--seemed like a flashy thing and very un-Rolex-like. If anything I might go for the 41mm, but I'm not 100% sure about it. This isn't exactly when I picked up a Tissot that I didn't like at first and grew to like. Did anyone have a similar experience with their Datejust? Thank you
  5. M.U.S.T H.A.V.E M.O.R.E P.I.C.T.U.R.E.S.
  6. YEAH, THEY TOOK DOWN THE "KINGPIN"! Detroit is a safe place to live again!
  7. BuLlEt

    Gst 3715 question

    Yes opening case from back is required. I had the dial of my 3536-1 replaced during service at IWC. They returned the original so I'd assume they also have these dials.
  8. BuLlEt


    Yeah looks like the real deal
  9. Hello - I used to be a member here but had lost my UN, so registered under a new name. I have a BP watch that I sought back in 2005 and it is now broken. I started making noise as if the rotor was loose (I had heard from a friend of mine who also has a BP watch that it is a common issue with the BP watch), so I took it to a local watch repair shop that was endorsed by the friend (the rotor got loose on his BP watch and the shop fixed it some time ago). The master repair man removed the back cover and told me that the rotor axle is broken and the watch needs to be sent to the manufacturer. AND he warned that the cost of repair would be massive... something like $1K ~ $2K I am wondering if any member (s) had the same issue and, if you do not mind, what the repair cost might be. I love this watch to death and want to wear it everyday but if the repair costed me that much, I would have to wait until I get bonus next year.. Thanks in advance.
  10. Looks to be the bracelet that fits the Mark XVI family. Would fit the 3255, 3717, and 3251
  11. That is indeed the difference. I'm not sure what grade the 7750 is for the 3777 but the 3714 has a chronometer grade 7750 which is further modified moving the seconds hand to 6 oclock whereas the 3777 is an unmodified stock eta movement.
  12. a Flat wrist Helps to pull of LARGER Watches. i have a Flat 7.1/4 Inche Wrist. the Lugs don't extend beyond my Wrist. so i'm afraid that the BP may not fit on a Smaller Wrist.! BUT doesn't hurt to Try it on.! again. a pilot Watch is suppose to be BIG .. but i also wear LARGER Diameter. like this 48mm Steinhart .!! the Steinhart Nav-B fits my Wrist Perfectly. maybe because both Watches have the Same Exact Lug Length.!! so what i wanted to say is that: so long as the Lugs don't hang over your Wrist ? you should be Fine.!!. but then, that's my Opinion. i may very well be WRONG. cause i believe that if the Wearer is Happy with it who cares what others think.?!! Cheers Tony
  13. I like the look. I'm too new to the obsession to have hard rules about mixing styles however, so you should probably defer to the more experienced members. But still. I like it. A lot.
  14. Well there you go. I'm sincerely glad I was mistaken.
  15. The watch in those photos is real. As for condition, it looks pretty good to me. I can't really see any terrible scratches. A lot of times, when you have zoomed in photos like that, everything looks 10x worse than in person - every little scratch is being magnified and focused on. Can't help you in terms of whether the seller is trustworthy. You'll have to make the call.
  16. Hei thanks for the advice .. i jus realised a while ago that my 20 rotations may not have been full rotations at all. highly likely it was half rotations. The watch stopped a while ago.So this time i wound it more than 30 times till i started hearing a slight click sound..I was afraid it was not something good to hear this clicking. I guess it means the watch is fully wound and the clutch mechanism is causing the clicking sound..Hope i didnt damage my watch. But it makes sense that 20 half rotations would only give me half the power.. So lets see if this time it can last up to at least 40-42 hrs with my supposed full winding . I will keep you guys updated. Thanks alot guys. Do continue to give me any advise if you feel there is any.. (:
  17. I probably would not trade the Mark for the Portofino. However, I will say that I get a lot of compliments when I wear my Portofino. WIS tend not to like it so much I think because of its relatively humdrum movement. But it is a very elegant and attractive watch that I find people really appreciate. Sorry to say, the Mark doesn't do much for me. It looks like a Timex to me. I agree with others in the thread that you should consider one of the Portugieser line and in your shoes that is probably the direction I'd be going if I were looking for a dress watch. That is, if they were not so unnecessarily BIG.
  18. It's a watch calculator. This watch is shown at the Army's museum in Moscow
  19. Thank you! Yes, it's a 2416b movement. The hands are Seiko 5 pilot hands. They are 150/90 hands. I only wish they were a straight fit. It would make things a whole lot easier. I made a sizing jig at work to modify Seiko/ETA hands to fit Vostok movements, but even after running them through the sizing jig, they still need to be tweaked to fit correctly. I split a piece of round bar stock in half, ran it through a surface grinder, then drilled a .85mm hole and a 1.40mm hole in the center of the split for the hand flanges. Put the hands in, tighten the hose clamp and they are sized, in theory. This is the 3rd watch I've used this on, and it's still not perfect. The hour hand is usually a great fit after sizing, but the minute hand always needs to be tweaked. For the next hand conversion, I'm going to follow Lokifish's example and get some 120/70 hands and broach them. I know the banknote is Bulgarian. I've got an envelope stuffed with Soviet bloc currency that my great-grandmother gave me from when she came to the USA.
  20. I concur with what others have written here. Let Julian know, and he will replace it. The "1" in "1000" is crooked too. I guess this is a potential problem with printing anything unique on the dial of a watch. Whatever printing mechanism is used must have replaceable digits, and if one is installed crooked, the result is crooked.
  21. Whilst poking around I found this apparently Swiss based online retailer (that is mentioned in russianwatchguide.com, but clearly as authorised or not) but my searches of this forum turned up nothing... The main shop is called www.aviator-watch.com. At least they market some pieces that have been debated here as being legit poljots as maktime. Prices seem ok, so just keen to hear if anybody has bought, or has heard about a buying experience from this place. Thanks
  22. I have one the same wizee. My thread:interesting case back
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