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About ffanny

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  1. Yes. The best example for me would be a P or K serial watch as it'll be one with the lug holes and solid end links. If you want the newer movement, 3186, get the later production of the M serials. Also consider the change from tritium to luminova.
  2. ffanny

    First Rolex

    I give daily thanks to whatever gods of horology there may be that I bought my pre-owned 1501 Date and 5513 Sub when they were about $3K -- combined.
  3. Please disregard this thread, I found one. Hi, Just wondering if anyone has found an aftermarket stainless steel bracelet to fit the Black Bay case. Thanks, Ard
  4. Thanks again David! I'll pass that one on as well.
  5. Another vote for the BLNR. It's simple, yet so charming.
  6. That's what appeals to me about the Explorer. It should work in any setting with any clothing choice. I have a dress style Omega DeVille and I have an Oris Aquis diver for the chunky tool watch look. I am being allowed 1600 for the Navitimer World as well as the 675 service fee and being asked for 3k. The Explorer is mint without a scratch to be seen anywhere. Don't think I could stretch to a new one as this is way outside my watch buying plan. I have had a few "rushes of blood to the head" in the last year eg Omega DeVille and Aqua Terra 150m, both new. And the Oris from eBay last month. This watch love is a serous disease that must be brought under control.
  7. There has been a lot of talk about the North Flag, so I figured now that I have a little time on my hands with it I'd give a sort of first impressions review. I wanted to provide a few comparisons also. The similarity to the Ranger / Explorer is definitely there, despite being a watch with a date and power reserve. It is very straightforward and clean cut. First things first, I'm big on how a watch feels, and the North Flag is no slacker. The watch is incredibly solid, and is actually heavier and thicker than any of the other watches I compared here. It is thicker than the ranger or the Explorer, and while not dramatically more than the Milgauss I have on it seems to wear a little thicker due to the straight lines. The North Flag also feels ever so slightly more weighted towards the head of the watch, where the Explorer and Milgauss feel more evenly distributed between case and bracelet. Maybe it's my imagination, but it has just a little denser feeling. That being said, it wears very comfortably. It's 40mm, but it feels a little smaller than even the 39mm Explorer I on the wrist. Rolex Explorer I: 138g, 11.3mm thick Rolex Milgauss GV: 158g 13.1mm thick Tudor Ranger: 159g, 12.2mm thick Tudor North Flag: 161g, 13.4mm thick This is a side by side shot of the North Flag and the Explorer 1. Under the sleeve of a normal dress shirt, here is the North Flag, Ranger, and Explorer 1. Unapologetically utilitarian, the bracelet on the North Flag is actually quite handsome in person. There's a little more space between the links than I expected, and they are not beveled or chamfered whatsoever on the edges. This all adds up to a geometric, simple look that flashes evenly in the light. If I had designed it myself I'd have rounded out the edges some, but it's hard to argue that this flat approach adds to the "tool watch" feel. Along these same lines is the finish of the watch: Every surface is brush finished. Where many watches in the Rolex and Tudor lines have brushed links with polished sides, alternating finishes on the backs, etc. the North Flag is basically uninterrupted flat right down to the matte ceramic bezel. Personally, I felt like this particular element seemed like an odd choice at first, but after examination I see that it's almost necessary to add that splash of contrast. A fluted bezel would not have fit the watch's character, and while I'd have loved a riveted or screwed in Ingenieur style bezel personally, it would be hard to encourage ripping off IWC or AP. A Sub-esque ceramic bezel could have been a nice touch, but again I have to respect Tudor for going with something a little different from what they have done in the past. My only real criticism of the bezel is that it does seem to stand very tall as I mentioned earlier. You're probably not going to wear the North Flag with French cuffs anyway, but personally I'd have preferred a lower profile. Thick watches can be great, this one just feels a little unneeded. The winding crown is oddly elongated, and I'm still not sure why. All I can say here is that while it's probably twice as long as anything else, it isn't that bad overall. Downright big hands and stark applied indices compliment a matte dial for excellent legibility. Even the Ranger-esque arrow hour hand has been straightened out and dialed back a notch from its vintage themed sibling, and makes for a marked improvement over it in my opinion. The super flat crystal is recessed flush with the bezel rather than being set slightly above or domed. It loses a little in depth, but does make you feel like it's slightly more rugged and protected. Honestly I don't know if it makes any quantifiable difference at all for everyday wear. Would I personally wear it? Where the Ranger has a very definite vintage charm, and the Heritage Chrono is just a darned cool watch the North Flag's niche is as a true tool watch, and I could definitely recommend it for someone wanting one. That being said, I'm still a little on the fence about it overall. There's a lot here to love, there's a few places I feel like small changes could have stepped it up from good to great. That being said, when you factor in the in house movement w/ 70h power reserve and the relatively unique design, it's a tremendous value proposition in its price-point. It would be easy to say that I'd rather wear an Explorer 1, but for half the money I'd say the North Flag's greatest competition as far as a quality watch for your money would be probably a different Tudor. Whether it grows on me to become a truly viable option or not, it is undeniably a very cool, very nice watch. As a final note, I like that in spite of mass appeal, it kinda gives a subtle nod to the watch nerd community. "Here's an affordable tool watch with an in house movement that is inspired by an obscure vintage watch" it seems to say "what's not to love?"
  8. Congratulations! Hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of your new piece.
  9. Compare it to pics of the watch it's trying to be: the Portuguese. The differences are fairly obvious.
  10. Congrats on the new piece! It sure is beautiful. I sure wouldn't take me long to start looking at some custom straps though!
  11. ffanny

    next Watch Advice

    Having owned a Speedmaster Pro, and having sold it in favor of the new 9300 model, I would advise you not to buy a Speedy simply because it's iconic. Only buy it if you love it. I did like mine very much, but minor irritants like the absence of a date function led me to eventually flip both a PO Chrono and my Speedy in favor of the new 9300 Speedy, which I absolutely love. If size is your primary concern with the Speedmaster, it's not a "small" watch by any means. Its lugs are fairly long and its case fairly chunky, so it wears like a larger watch and doesn't look "old" because of its size, should that be your concern. You may want to try one on in person before making a decision. As to the 9300 version being out of your price range, I would suspect that you should be able to source one gently used on the pre-owned market for a price that ought to be very comparable to what you might pay for an IWC chrono. If you do, I can assure you it's a stellar watch. I love mine. It's everything there is to love about a Speedmaster, with a more modern size, more care-free sapphire front, a date function and a fantastic (and beautiful!) movement for a mass-produced watch. Not sure which IWC chrono you are considering. There are many solid choices, and the affordable ones are almost invariably Valjoux 7750-derived, which is a good thing from a reliability and ruggedness standpoint. As to the Breitling, I would not recommend you go that route, unless you can score one for a pittance on the used market (which should be doable, as their resale value is even more terrible than most high-end consumer brands, for some reason). The Superocean line of chronos is not very attractive, in my view, compared to the Navitimers and the Chronomats. They are somewhat crude, design-wise. As to wearing with a suit, I feel that this particular design would be the least versatile of the three watches you are considering. If you like the Speedmaster design, I'd save up for a 9300 if I were you. Or if you can find a nice 7750 IWC chrono in your price range, their designs are tried and tested, and it's hard to go wrong with that.
  12. Thanks for the input. Im considering in passing this one since i think if i were to spend 2900 even for a flip piece that i could potentially earn or breakeven from, id want it to be a watch i love. At this price perhaps ill wait for a speedy :)
  13. The "which one is better?" question will never be answered - you will hear arguments for both and the (non) manufacture movement "issue" really isn't an issue but a sentiment and argument, quite nicely addressed by tony20009 in this thread. No advice on dial color can -or should- be given; it's all a very personal choice, one that you (and you alone) need to be comfortable with. With all of that out of the way, I opted for the Portuguese Chronograph, light dial, blue numerals, back in 2003 and upgraded to the Portuguese Automatic 7-day, same color combination, in 2010. No regrets whatsoever and no indications that one is better than the other. Both pieces have the same diameter, yet the 7-day is noticeable thicker and as such appears and feels chunkier and clunkier on your wrist (6.75" for me), but I don't think that should keep you from getting it. Either Portuguese is a great choice and a watch you will enjoy for many years to come. Whatever dial is most appealing to you - you can't go wrong. And it will be a nice addition and diversification to your beautiful collection. Good luck and keep us posted.
  14. ffanny

    DING in my Portofino

    I have asked my IWC AD in Thailand, and to convert the cost of refine the case. it cost approx 300-400 USD (this is cost to refinish in Thailand service center not sending back to Swiss) However, from the picture. Personally it wouldn't bother me at all, I would even wait for more dings if occurred then decide it agian.
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