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Everything posted by matte18

  1. There are so many electronic products in modern society and magnetic field is everywhere, so when you wear your watch, you should be careful everywhere. Because many components of the watch are steel and very easy to be magnetized by outer H-field. It will cause the discrepancy to the watch and influence the accuracy once the watch is magnetized. The watch will maybe go faster or slower, the most serious situation is the springs got adhered, and in that case, your watch will go faster more than 2hs everyday. Besides that, the H-field will attract more iron filings, increase the wear of the ball bearings and influence the winding efficiency. The influence on the quartz watch is smaller, the quartz watch will stop working when it is exposed to the external H-field at most and the magnetized components won't influence the timing performance. Once the quartz watch is out of the H-field, the watch will back to normal immediately. But in the strong Ac magnetic field, such as the huge electric motor or the potential transformer, you should notice that the quartz watch may will go very fast. The intensity of the external magnetic field is related to the magnetic thing's Magnetic intensity itself and the contact distance. The shorter of the distance and the stronger of the magnetic intensity will make the watch magnetized more seriously. The influence of the Ac magnetic field on the watch is commutative magnetization and demagnetization, so the Dc magnetic field has bigger influence on the watch. Actually, the influence of the eletronic products is not bigger than that of the magnetic snap of the bags, which is made from Fd-Fe-B.The watch will be magnetized immediately when your watch touch it, and the remanent magnetism will influence the timing performance constantly. Of course, all electrical appliances are also has the magnetism, such as the mobile phones, televisions, tape recorder, computer and so on, so your watch will be magnetized very easily. Then how to know that your watch is magnetized? Here is a simple way, Put a sensitive compass flat on the table, hold your watch and do quick back and forth action above the compass, if the hand oscillated, then your watch is magnetized. The watch is magnetized directionally, only in one position the magnetized watch will influence the compass obviously.So, when you check your watch in this way, you need to change your watch in different orientations to do the experiment repeatedly. There is stepping motor rotor inside of the quartz watch, which is made of magnetic steel. If it's the quartz watch to do the test, the hand of the compass will oscillate too. But there is no residual magnetism in the quartz watch, so you don't need to degauss the quartz watch. The watch can be degaussed easily, so if you want to demagnetize your watch, you can ask the technician of the watch repair shop for help. But asked the technician to do a full range of demagnetization to the watch. In the last, hope everyone a healthy watch ^_^
  2. IWC is very popular, no matter the new types or the vintage models. I'm gonna introduce some IWC pocket watch movements. Some novices can take it as reference when you plan to buy a watch. You guys can complement too~~~ Jones Calibre: The first movement of IWC, manufactured by the founder Florentine Aristo Jones Year of production: 1896-1874, about 26, 000pieces Elgin I Calibre: Elgin I Calibre is a tradition movement of IWC. This movement has many different varieties from 1879 to 1887, including Cal.32, 33, 34 and 35. And it's said that some types were not produced in Swiss. Calibre IWC and Calibre 52, 53: The Cal.IWC, produced in 1888 and the Cal.52, 53, published in about 15 years later than Cal.IWC, can be called the main movements of IWC. From 1888-1940, including the Cal.53, IWC produced 463, 700 pieces of these movements in total. This is a large movement, 19J(43.15mm) 5.2-6.5mm of thickness. Left is Cal.IWC, right is Cal.52 Cal.52-2 (53) Calibre 57, 58: Some people would say that Cal.57 is the cheap edition of Cal.52, because many components of these two movements can exchange. About 12, 000 pieces were produced during the period of 1890-1931. 18-19J(41-43.15mm) 5.2-6.5mm of thickness Calibre 65,66 Cal.65 and Cal.66, also called Lutetia are first evements equipped with finger shaped plate. Produced about 38, 740pics during the 1883 to 1930. 18J(41mm) 5.2-6.5mm of thickness Calibre 67 Cal.67 has been manufactured about 23, 400pieces during the period of 1933-1958. 18J(41mm) 5.5mm of thickness Calibre 71, 72 Cal.71, 72 were produced from 1904 to 1917, 600 of each type, 1, 200 pieces in totle. 19J(43.15mm) 6mm of thickness Calibre 73, 74 Cal.73, 74 were produced from 1913 to 1930, about 52, 500 pieces in total. 17J(38mm) 4.2mm of thickness Calibre 77 Many collectors think Cal.77 is the most beautiful movement of IWC. The plate is not the traditional type but is nickel plating with stripe polishing. And this is the last IWC finger shaped plate movement. Most of them were produced for America market, and a lot of cases were made in America. The production year: 1917-1921 about 10, 500pieces 17J(38mm) 4.3mm of thickness Calibre 95, 952 Cal. 95 and the Cal. 952(added with shock absorber) replaced the finger shaped plate with the curvilinear figure plate, which is very thin. The production year: 1927-1963, about 15, 000 pieces in total 17J(37.8mm) 3.2mm of thickness You guys can complement :D
  3. If you guys want to buy watch recently, here my some suggestions according to my experience 1)The first thing that you should notice is that the watch should be waterproof and has good sealing performance. Nowadays, a lot of watches, equipped with press-in case back especially some lady watches and some watches with thin or ultrathin case, are not waterproof. And dust, farbic and some other matters will entered the untight sealed watch very easily.Then you need to repair it often in the future. To avoid this trouble, i suggest that you should buy a waterproof and well sealed watch at the most begining. 2)Don't buy the gold-filled or the watches with bicolour case and bracelet. The gold plating is definately not very thick, generally 3-5 microns 10 microns at most, And its very ugly i think when the gold-plated layer is worn out at last.= = If its the ionic titanium plating, the color is not very natural either. So, the SS material is the first choice for me. 3)If the bracelet is SS, then choose the solid bracelet. Most premium brands watches are solid bracelet, very compact and safe. It's better the clasp has elastic steel case or the screw bolt rod , not the hairpin style connection. It's even better if the bracelet is equipped with the butterfly clasp. The clasp is related to the open and close of the bracelet. It's also one of the particularly vulnerable position of the whole watch in the future. 4)The less additional instruction function, the better, because it's good for the timekeeping performance. If your watch is just for daily needs, no particular requirements, then buy single calendar watch, not double calendars. Most month calendars are just decoration of the watch. 5)Considered carefully before you decide to buy a watch with special shapped case. Because you cannot ensure that the case will not break. And if the case is rarly cambered sapphire crystal, it would be very difficult to find an original one to replace it when it's broken. Even though you find one, the price is definately very high, while the flat round glass is most common and the price is more affordable. 6)It is not recommended that you buy the watches with 18k white gold case or bracelet, because this material is the rhodium plating, and once the plating is worn, the surface will be yellowing. And this kind of appearance cannot be renovated by decoration or polish, it must be Rhodium plated again after the surface is yellowing. 7)Be cautious about the special material straps as well, such as the gator strap or the special shaped strap. This strap is kind of a consumable, it needed to be replaced after about 3,4 years and if you want to replace it you must buy the original strap because it is not general type. The price is also not affordable to eveyone. 8)The gangle type bracelet which is welded on the watch case directly and the bracelet is integral. This kind bracelet usually must be cut when it needed to be shorten. If the size of the bracelet is too small to suit your wrist, you have no way to lengthen it because a lot of things needed to be welded again, its very complex. And the material is usually the 18k gold. 9)The super thin or ultrathin watch, no matter it is mechanical watch or quartz watch. The movements are always the larger the better, especially the mechanical movement. The ultra thin watch has thin movement as well, so the inner components are also more fragile and the timing performance and the reliability are not so good as the thick movement. The PIAGET 9P2 is an example. 10)You need to consider the maintenance problem before you buy the limited produced watch or the independent watch brand or the avant-garde, conceptual designed watch. If the replaceable components is not available, it would be difficult to fix the watch. 11)If you want to buy lady watch, then buy quartz watch. The performance of lady watch are not so good as gent watch and the maintenance is shorter too. Because women are not so active as men, so most lady watch are quartz watch, such as OMEGA and LONGINES. And the type and style of quartz watch are more beautiful. If you're male and you haven't too much daily activities and has particular requirements of the timing accuracy, the i recommend that you should buy a quartz watch.
  4. But Pams are BIG...Like cars and motorcycles
  5. In my recent experience, looking at the same watch in a light color vs black, the black one looked smaller. I looked at Grand Seiko SBGE005 and SBGE011. I could swear the black one was smaller. Best thing to do is go try on the different color. I thought the black looked nice. But i would like to try blue or other colors as well.
  6. One of the nicest dress watches come from Deutschland!!!!!!:)
  7. I think the abrasion is unavoidable when you manual winding the watch. But the manual winding performance is not for daily use,and the discrepancy of the mechanical watch is normal after all, so just be careful and soft when you manual winding the watch.
  8. The blue hands has became a symbol of the advanced watches because of its beauty, elegance and complex fabrication. A lot of guys are fond of blue steel hands, but many people are wondering what exactly it is. So i want to introduce the blue hands briefly to you guys here. Blue steel is actually a kind of metal surface treament craft. To acquire the better anti-corrosion and aesthetic effect, the blue steel hand need to be calcined gradually to about 300℃. Under that condition, the surface of the metal will oxidate and turn into blue color. And after the cooling, quencher and saponification process, a layer of ultrathin light blue magnetite membrance will appear on the metal surface. This kind of process makes the watch hands more attractive and having anti-corrosion performance. This difficult handicraft technique needs extremely accurate judgment of the temperature and heat control to achieve a very uniform color and lustre of the hands. Only experienced technician can operate this technology. I'm kind of a blue hands fan and here are some my favorite blue hands watches Breguet 5377 Classique Tourbillon Extra-plat Automatique A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Ballon Bleu de Cartier Glashutte Senator Chronometer Regulator
  9. I think wear different everyday is a little too frequently, watch is not cloth after all. But having at least two watches to wear alternately is very important too.
  10. These three movements are all self-winding and small three hands movement, the 7001 is always used as pocket watch movement because it is thinner and larger. 7001 seems to more famous because it was adopted by Nomos, but the 6497/8 are more general.
  11. matte18

    Need purchase advise

    yes, i think the second is better as well, looks more elegant.
  12. yes~~like this kind of color collocation very much!!
  13. Having hesitated for a long time, I decided to buy this watch, so what do you think about that~~~
  14. THX for your suggestions, i'll think it over ^_^
  15. I was interested with PAM351 at first, but there were no inventory in the official shop, so i turned to the PAM523, a very cost efficient watch, but still no inventory. Then i decided to buy PAM505, but it's said that this watch has paint off problem before and those watches needed to sent back to factory to coating again. I want to know that if this problem has been solved now. What you guys think about this watch? Do you think it's worthy buying it?
  16. To be quite honest with you, I have never pay much attention to the discrepancy at all. I wouldn't bother to get the watch adjusted unless the discrepancy we are talking about is over 20 seconds or something. Actually, isn't all mechanical watch has the tendency to get discrepancy?
  17. Can't agree more about that. You don't know how the ex-user keep it or if the inner parts has been replaced by cheaper ones, but the brand new watch is more reliable
  18. i want to know what's your Tudor guy think about this years new release? i think the ranger is nice, and with accepatble price on these prestigious watch brands, it offers 3 options of watch bands to choose from, the brown leather bund, traditional styled strap and steel bracelet, $2950 for bracelet, $2825 for strap each, so what's do you think?
  19. hope they will release a ss version years later
  20. Datejust is relatively more dressy, GMT and Submariner are both sport watches, the former one slight flashy and more understated for the latter, so this depends on what kind of lifestyle you live with, if you dress up often then I would suggest Datejust, otherwise, choose one between the other two. ps, the submariner may possess a higher resale value, GMT is a stunning watch, especially the black/blue one, but it has never as popular as sub
  21. get bored so to use my iphone trying to catch the lec on my green sub, heard lots of people moaning about how hard to capture it, lucky me, here it is (pardon my blurry iphone pic) my way is: 1. put the watch straight under the light 2. fix it at 3 and 9 o'clock with two fingers 3. look at the lec position in 6 o'clock at eye level through 5 or 7
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