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Everything posted by Alexon

  1. Mine seems to be keeping time well. I have had it for about a month now. It is such a sweet watch!
  2. When I first decided I wanted a Rolex, my first instinct was also to look at vintage Datejusts. I ended up going for the modern 116200 and I'm glad I did. They are much nicer and can be had for pretty reasonable prices used or on the grey market. Overall, the watch has more heft than the older models because of a beefed up the case. The super-jubilee feels very solid, but is also incredibly comfortable - and looks amazing. The new baton-marker dial is also much nicer in my opinion. Overall it has a premium feel the older models lack. If you're set on the fluted gold bezel, I'd suggest the 116234. If you want the domed bezel, I cannot recommend the 116200 highly enough. Here is my 116200 on a 6.3 inch wrist.
  3. My SubC 114060 was my first Rolex. The thought of it being ubiquitous never entered into my decision making. I don't work in the finance industry nor do I wear a suit to work.
  4. After thinking about this for a couple years I bit the bullet today and picked up a 1995 Rolex Explorer I 14270 and I couldn't be happier. It's my first watch which cost over £500 so I will cherish this and hopefully get a lifetime of wear out of it. Looked at the 114270 but couldn't really see much difference between the two.. looks wise I know there isn't but theres a few things like newer movement and SEL bracelet. Will get some photos up this week! Happy to finally join the Explorer I gang though .
  5. Alexon


    It's still backordered at most stores, so grey market sellers are using their ability to go off MSRP to charge a premium for getting one right away. For a brand-new one, you should expect to pay MSRP -- no reason to discount an in-stock item for you when a store can sell it at full price within a day regardless.
  6. My understanding is that a COSC Chronometer certified watch is guaranteed to run within an accuracy of between -4 and +6 seconds per day. Minus 5 seconds is extremely close, so I would suggest for now to check out its accuracy over a two-week period. If it averages between -4 and +6, don't worry about it.
  7. Sub. A true classic. It doesn't matter if you get a newer ceramic model or an older aluminum bezel model, it's the way to go as your first Rolex.
  8. Everyone here is thinking, "Hmm looks possible but we need proper pics". Me too!
  9. Congrats. Hope you love it over time. Earlier this year, I did the same thing........I sold 10 or 12 watches from lesser known brands and used the money to buy a WG Daytona on a strap. I sold a bunch of watches that I wasn't wearing and ended-up with one watch that I wear fairly frequently. I haven't regretted it one bit. I hope you feel the same way 6 or 8 months from now Here is the one that I traded for........
  10. Somewhat to my surprise, IWC has responded to the open letter John Mayer sent to them recently on Hodinkee. There's a post in this forum from ptimson with a link to Mayer's letter. IWC's reply is here: An Open Letter To John Mayer, From IWC — HODINKEE - Wristwatch News, Reviews, & Original Stories You may not agree with what IWC say, but kudos to them for replying.
  11. The more close-up your scan is the more your watch lugs seem to extend beyond your wrist. So close-up is a no-go in this case. My two cents only... Best, Robert BTW I have the newest AT Chrono on my 6.75" wrist and this really seems to be the largest watch that I can wear: case is 43.5 mm and bezel is 45.5 mm (IWC simply sais the watch to be 44 mm).
  12. I have this: Porsche Design Quartz Chronograph Moon Phase. I am trying to determine whether it's worth repairing. This watch is in excellent condition aside from the fact that it doesn't run and a new battery didn't help. Any thoughts? Thanks.
  13. I had a think about how and where the IWC would fit in my collection. The AT (36mm sport) is staying, as is the Carrera (fragile first love), leaving the Tudor (superfluous) and GS (work) to be flipped and replaced. The XVI could do it - a toolish but work-appropriate watch on weekday duty. Our weather has been glorious this week! But, it won't be for long...... I get vintage. I do. But, it will have to be another piece. Here's what the 34mm will look like. They also made a 34mm Spitfire.
  14. I have both 3714 and n 3717 and both are running within +3 to 4 secs. / day consistently for the past 6 or 7 yrs. Fantastic movements!
  15. Interesting, are the hand lumed that way originally, or they are relumed, or they are mounted upside-down ? Regards, Miro.
  16. Do not buy at www.russian-watches.info
  17. Welcome to the f10 forum, kevin! I'm a confessed and convicted Amphibia modder who is always swapping cases, bezels and hands. There are 3 ways to go about this mod. All 3 will require you to buy a case back opener. I like the mid-range openers in the $10-$25 range from eBay, but that's just me. They are listed in ascending levels of difficulty. Option 1 is to buy the blue Scuba Dude watch you want and a 100 case with a winding crown and stem. favinov is my go-to seller on eBay for new cases. Then swap the movement from the old case to the new case using the stem from the new case. There is a stem release button on the back of the movement, Press it and pull the stem out, remove the movement, put the movement in the new case and then insert the new stem. Press the release button again and push the stem in. Then make sure the crown screws down correctly and check for proper operation of the hands and winding and make sure the stem doesn't pull back out. Then replace the case back and you are done. Difficulty level is about a 2 on a scale of 1-5. But that option leaves you with an empty case, which is why I like option 2. Buy your Scuba Dude watch and any 100 cased watch. Then swap the movements, making sure to keep the winding crown and stem with the case it came out of. Then you have a second watch which you can resell and recoup some of your costs. Same difficulty level as option 1. Then there is option 3. Buy any 100 cased watch and the Scuba Dude dial that you like and swap the dial. This requires a hand puller and hand setter and has a difficulty level of about 4 out of 5. It's the most fun route to go, but I don't recommend it unless you are like me and are going to end up swapping hands and building custom Amphibias. Here's a few of my mods. The first is just a simple case and bezel swap, the second is a case and bezel swap and hand change and the third was built from scratch, using a movement, dial, hands, case and bezel I got off eBay and a custom bezel insert from a master craftsman Good luck with your mod!
  18. Hello everyone! New forum member here, but long time lurker. I finally decided on my first timepiece, and out of them all, I settled for a Strela Chronograph Class I. I have found the model I like, in about excellent condition for $400, but after doing a little research I started to wonder about it. Here the questions: A. the watch is really worth the asking price? (Since it is not a vintage one) B. Is there a chance of it being a replica? The strap currently on the watch is not the original one, though I am unsure about the other two and the case that comes with it. Any advice will be greatly appreciated it, the seller is still waiting on an answer from me.
  19. That might be oil damage at the center. And the Vympel dial is correctly paired with a 1MWF movement, not Luch.
  20. I'm sure we'll never really know the answer to that question, particularly when discussing the state controlled economy of the '60s USSR. Perhaps these were made just to see if 2MWF could begin to produce a mans watch again instead of the womens watches they were producing at the time and so the 1600 movement was used and this was the first "modern" Slava mens watch attempted. A clean "bauhaus" design resulted which evidently was not very popular based on the number of examples that survive. Another possibility is that this design was used to develop cases for the tuning fork project watch which was being developed at the same time, So, to sum up, what interests me about this watch is: Clean attractive design. Represents Slava's entry back into the mens watch market. Unusual movement with no second hand. Beauty, history, and rarity, isn't that what attracts collectors?
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