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About catcpo

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  1. If that's the watch you're thinking of buying and pocketing the difference, there's a reason why it's less expensive. First, you're displaying a DATE (34 mm) model with an engine turned bezel, rather than the fluted bezel. If you've got a Datejust at 36mm, then you're trading down. Date models are just worth less than Datejust models. Same movement, same Rolex engineering. Just smaller. Oh, and if that's a Date model from the 60's or early 70's, then it might even be 14K gold rather than the likely 18K gold you've now got on your Datejust, if it's really a Datejust. You don't need my approval to make the deal, just be sure you have an idea of what you're giving up and what you're getting. As you describe the deal at the moment, you're going backwards in watch and value, but if it puts a few dollars in your pocket and you like what you see, then by my guest.
  2. Picked up my grail watch today! The Hulk sub! I'm just wanting to share the love of this watch! Obviously I'm over the moon, I love the way the dial catches the light and appears different shades of green and even black sometimes. The glossy ceramic is stunning, and I think compared to other watches in this price point it really can't be compared to with brand hierarchy, heritage and down right style. (My opinion of course!) Again (as you can tell) I'm grinning with excitement. The only downside is the AD wouldn't give any discount and I got a not to great price for my aerospace that I traded in as PX, but impulse to just buy buy buy it when I tried it on was to great and I accepted the deal! So hear we have it, a brand spanking new 2015 Rolex Submariner Hulk, with a very excited and happy owner! I will try and get some better shots later, these were taken as quick snaps on the iPhone.
  3. catcpo

    Hulk or Batman

    +£500? Sorry, I didn't get you. Edited Note: I love both watches equally.
  4. You can you a springbar tool with the fine tip. You just have the pull the rubber back just enough to see the springbars shoulder. I recommend you tape up the lugs (use masking or painters tape) it's much easier than changing the stock bracelet, which IMHO is very difficult. Good luck and post pictures!
  5. This is my 2001 Rolex Submainer 14060M: scooter
  6. Just to close the question... I saw the watch and seemed legit. At the end, I decided to purchase another watch somewere else, but because I liked it better. Best regard and thanks for the tips..
  7. Have you all read through this? I think John brings up some good points... An Open Letter To IWC, From John Mayer â HODINKEE - Wristwatch News, Reviews, & Original Stories
  8. so beautiful, love the midnight blue. i'm trying to find one myself but given that it was a limited edition of 1000, i'm not sure if i can find one now. does IWC have a centralized stock system where they keep track of all watches so that I can just contact one boutique?
  9. SG tax claim works like a swiss clock, the whole thing takes 2 mins and very efficient; you will do it at a port of exit and the retailer will give you the instructions on the spot. SG tax is very small, so you will get about 5% back after fees etc. Getting at anywhere, even in a boutique in SG, will be a challenge as they don't stock them for out-of-production models, and getting an accessory in SG is a royal pain in the bum...I once had to wait for over 8 months to get a replacement strap for my JLC reverso, while in Geneva I got it under 5 days. My feeling is that these bracelet, straps etc orders have zero priority as they make very little on them, hence lack of interest in helping you out.
  10. Looking at the new model of this . . . IW390503 -- with reduced size of 43.5 mm. Looking for input on whether any of you have bought/tried this and whether this would work on a 7 inch wrist. Also, curious as to dial color preference. Thanks.
  11. Hey guys! So I've been digging through some older watches, trying to figure out what to sell and what to fix up. I've got an old Molnija propaganda pocket watch that I bought in the early 90's from God-knows-where. Early on in it's life, the second hand fell off the little sub-dial and disappeared mysteriously right out of the case. I was so disgusted; I put the watch back in its box and promptly lost it in one of my junk drawers. Recently, I found it again and extracted the watch from the gooey remains of the polyurethane foam and tissue paper that it was wrapped in. I wound it up and, lo and behold, it still runs perfectly despite decades of neglect. I opened the caseback and removed the movement to give everything a careful cleaning and get the greasy film off the inside of the crystal. I can't remember what the positions of the hands were when I removed the movement from the case but after reassembly, the watch is now exactly one half-hour off! What I mean is that when the hour hand is pointing at the hour marker, the minute hand is exactly at the thirty minute marker. I don't have a lot of specialty watch makers tools but I am always careful when I open a watch not to touch anything unnecessarily, particularly the face and hands. I can't believe I pushed the minute hand exactly 30 minutes off the mark. I've been trying to puzzle this one out but I am stumped. It's not like I could have put the movement back in upside down or something but it seems, because of the precision of the defect, that it's possible that I did something stupid on reassembly. Without a second hand or date indicator, I suppose I could just push both of the hands to the 12 o'clock position and all would be well but I wanted your collective opinion before I do so. Maybe I'm overlooking something obvious? (It's been known to happen in the past.) Thanks, Greg
  12. All parts are included, except movement and dial.
  13. My first line of defense is to polish the crystal thats on it. I do believe it has the correct crystal. My kgb got a nasty gash while working on a friends e30 and it took about two minutes to polish it out using automotive rubbing compound. Hopefully that will work. It will probably need new gaskets either way and the hands could use a relume so im still thinking im gonna take it apart. Does anyone have a guide to lubrication and what lube to use? And yeah i get the feeling this is tip of the iceberg for my vostok collection.
  14. If the case and crown were pristine, I might consider a restoration. Otherwise, I wouldn't do anything beyond a light cleaning of the dial and hands, if even that.
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