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The so-called classical watches enjoyed unique reputation on technology and aesthetics of human beings, actually they are just the same as the outstanding people who played important roles in the history: they have unique temperament, and they narrated the legends and adventures of their ages by their own experiences. Cartier Tank is the best evidence of the correlation of appearance and historical development of classic. In fact, the author of Cartier The Tank Watch Franco Cologni considers that Cartier Tank is one of the few VIOs (very important objects) in history, and it has the same status as the most famous VIP (very important person). la Tank in French (Tanks watch) just like la Callas (name of an opera: Maria Callas) which had become another name of chief operatic actress, its historical orientation stood for the authentic start of the era of watch and witnessed a turbulent era of the reform of concept and measurement of time. Innumerable people had worn Tank watch, such as elites, knowledgeable people, dramatic people, artists, actors, sportsmen and writers, and this fully reflected Tank's exalted status and variety of its enthusiasts. But Tank's excellence is not derived from admirations and recommendations of many enthusiasts and collectors. Tank watch is in itself an extraordinary product, and this is the reason why so many people phrased Tank watch uniformly. Tank Francaise We can certainly say that every classical watch stands for distinctive spirit of every era: Tank watch was formally launched in 1911, a time of celebrating a integration of speed and endurance, daring and precision, beauty and severity. Tank watch is the symbol that reflects the memory of this era of wearers: a era that time is placed in the first place by economy, culture and aesthetics. The structure, design and accessories of Tank were well ahead of its rivals at that time, even today it also can keep pace with the times. In addition to the combination of excellent taste and avantgarde design, it can constantly meet new technological challenges. Having been produced almost for a century, Tank watch had become the most perfect symbol of last century, and it certainly continue to lead the trend of this century. The reason why Cartier Tank became a classical watch is that it had experienced the historical tests and made itself become an eternal pioneer with the combination of fashion and watchmaking technology. Therefore, if you want to know more about Tank watch, you should explore the historical evolution of Cartier firstly. Tank Louis Cartier The story of Cartier started in 1847. After Louis-Francois Cartier took over a jewelry workshop which was located in 31 rue Montorgueil of Paris from his master worker Adolphe Picard, a excellent brand Cartier that has business of fashion, jewelry and famous watches was formally founded, and then the most legendary and beautiful story was started in this flourishing world. In 1856, Napoleon III came into power. After a period of unrest, former prosperous atmosphere returned to Paris. Ball and party became popular for a while, and commercial activities became prosperous day by day. Cartier was recommended by Napoleon's young cousin Princess Mathilde, thus its businesses were increased greatly. In 1859, Cartier moved its shop to the most fashionable place of Paris Boulevard des Italiens NO.9, and Cartier's activities attracted the attention of Queen Eugerie, and Cartier and famous fashion designer Woth became good friends at that time. Cartier wanted to establish family business. He taught his son Alfred Cartier technology and let him take part in the family business as partner. In 1874, Alfred Cartier formally took over the workshop from Louis-Francois Cartier, and Alfred started to run the shop with his eldest son Loius-Joseph Cartier together. In 1899, Cartier made a crucial decision in commercial history it moved its shop to rue de lapaix No.13 where is upscale commercial center of Paris. In the meanwhile, Alfred turned over the businesses of No.13 to his eldest son Louis-Joseph Cartier. Cartier New York In 1902, Cartier's London branch was founded. In 1904, Louis-Francois Cartier died. In 1906, another son of Alfred Jacques Cartier assume the office of director of London branch. In 1907, son of Alfred Pierre Cartier went to New York and established Cartier's headquarter at Morton Plant building which is located in the 5th Avenue. Interestingly, the headquarter building was the return of a double-string black pearl necklace. Four of them spared no effort to capitalize their customers. They not only received distinguished guests at luxury shop, at the same time they also carried boxes of jewelry to go around the world. The business had just been transferred from father to son for two generations, Cartier had already been one of the most famous jewelers in the world. British crown prince of Wales called it "the jeweler of Emperor, the king among jewelers." British royals ordered 27 crowns which were used in the coronations. In 1902, Edward VII came into power and he praised Cartier as "United Kingdom Royal Jeweler." Louis-Joseph Cartier There is no denying that the oldest son of Alfred Carteir Louis Cartier is the soul of Cartier. He is a talented designer who is good at combining the advantages of jewelry and wristwatches. In 1880, Louis Cartier set up a Cartier watchmaking department. Designers, gemologists, engravers and galzers were authorized greatly in the department, so that they could exert their talent and technology as much as possible, hence a great deal of spectacular products were produced at that time. In the meanwhile, he is also a tasteful and commercially-minded businessman. He began devoting efforts to producing watches, and he obtained lots of patents with his sophisticated technology and technical assistance (such as Louis invented Mysterious Clock with the help of Maurice Couet who is a master and watch manufacturer). On the other hand, he recognized his gift on jewelry and watchmaking spontaneously. In addition to the precise performance, the watches that designed by Cartier also have excellent appearance. Cartier even spent 2 or 3 years in pursuing perfection of some designs. Therefore, in terms of aesthetic and originality, Cartier watch is extremely excellent product. There is no wonder that Cartier watch is not only a timepiece, it is also a work of art, which is closely related with Louis Cartier who brought the artistic vitality to watch industry for he is a designer of exquisite jewelry and artwork. Alberto Santos-Dumont and the Santos Dumont According to the record of archives, Cartier had already launched authentic wristwatch in 1888. Anyway, in 1904, Louis Cartier had produced a wristwatch for his good friend Alberto Santos－Dumont who is a Brazilian aviation pioneer, and that wristwatch could let him read the time without the help of his hands when he piloted the plane. Moreover, according to the record of traditional oral history of Cartier, this watch is pretty identical to Santos watch which was formally launched in 1911. In fact, until the end of 1880, most wristwatches were decorative products, but not practical products. At that time, the behavior that people look down at wristwatch was deemed as impolite on social occasions or by party etiquette. Therefore, almost all men were wearing pocket watches, only ladies would use the watch that designed to be a part of jewelry. However, their jewelry are very small, thus high-quality movements could not be placed into the jewelry. But since the vast majority of incipient wristwatches served as timepieces and decorative products, it was natural that there was no essential demand of accurate timing. Nevertheless, from the original intention of Santos' design and the reason of its advent, we can know the devotion and innovation of Cartier to wristwatches, which is exactly the best evidence to prove that Cartier can know the evolution of human civilization clearly. Tank U At the turn of 19th century and 20th century, people has great interest on the development of technology, science and materials. Darwin's theory of evolution brought confidence for people to pursue progress, and they were infatuated with machinery, speed and sports. Diesel motor was invented in 1897, Led Zeppelin airship had its first flight in 1900, aircraft of the Wright brothers successfully flied to the sky in 1903, automobiles suddenly reached the speed of 101 kilometers per hour. Speed and time suddenly became the contemporary puzzle miraculously, and people were obsessed with conquering limits as much as possible. The whole society became addicted with pursuing machinery and speed for an instant, moreover, the attraction of sports was discovered by people again, so two hazardous public entertainments were created flying and racing. In this constantly accelerating society, watch began playing dual roles. On the one hand, it is an important timepiece. On the other hand, it has made progress continually, and it is also one of the best examples of progressive technology in modern times. The initial two watches of Cartier reflect this trend appropriately. In terms of some factors, Santos that produced for aviation pioneer is the earliest aviation watch; and Tank which was produced in 1919 has the most direct and most pure relationship with the speed and body lines of automobiles. Cartier Tank Window The inspiration of the production of Tank is still mysterious today, which is just the same as Santos. According to the traditional oral history of Cartier, Louis Cartier drew a draft about Tank watch in 1917, and the inspiration of its most distinctive case was derived from the horizontal part of Renault tank. Moreover, the first Tank prototype was given to the commander of American Expeditionary Forces in Europe John Joseph Pershing in 1918. Just as mentioned above, when the WWI began in Europe, its society was just in a period that people were strongly looking forward to pursuing sports and speed immaturely. Unfortunately, the WWI was exactly the most rival warfare in history. Numerous trenches and barriers blocked the advanced vehicles, hence the infantries became the main forces in the war. Until the appearance of tank in 1916, it changed the situation of the war outright by its incomparable force and flexible speed. Therefore, the war was ended quickly by it, and European got liberation in soul completely. Tank watch has distinctive rectangular case which is like the body of automobile, and the straight line connects the lugs and leather strap smoothly. All this characteristic features show the basis of thinking of this Tank watch which was named after the advanced machinery-Tank. Tank M In addition to be the outlet of the desire of power and strength at that time, the appearance of Tank watch also declared the perfect solution to watchmaking technology and geometric aesthetics of Cartier. In the early 19th century, there was a problem which was needed to be solved firstly in the transition of pocket watch to wristwatch, that was how to connect the rounded case of pocket watch with bracelet/strap successfully to make it be possible to be tied to the wrist, in other words, how to design lugs for fixing the strap which not only could connect to the case, but also could give consideration to aesthetic and structure. This problem gave rise to an upsurge of study of the watch's shape and structure in watchmaking industry, so that there were numerous watch shapes at that time, such as square, hexagon, octagon, tonneau - shaped and oval, even polygon and triangle also could be seen. Carree Obus On one hand, Tank watch retains the overall geometric lines of wristwatch by the perfect combination of the vertical profile of case's edges and strap. On the other hand, it perfectly solved the technical and aesthetic problem of four points caused by both sides of the lugs. Santos has visible lugs, but Tank's lugs were hidden cleverly by integration of case and lugs. For another, the geometric structure of Tank watch fully met the urgent dual requirement of contemporary art: its vertical lines on both sides are simple but undivided, which could show the balance of case and make the watch look sporty. The opinion of geometric shape is related with controversy about contemporary aesthetics issues. In the first twenty years of 19th century, visual arts, architecture, music and literature had experienced dramatic revolutions. At that time, people had fierce rebellion towards secular traditions and academic, and they expressed their emotions, so that a special trend that constantly pursued new modality was generated. Therefore, abstractism that adhere to geometric lines and dreamlike surrealism existed in the society simultaneously. Eventually, a new thinking that build rational order with geometric lines and regain peace and perfection by decorative arts was gradually formed. Just as a building that designed by neoplasticists J.J.P. Oud and Gerrit Rietveld, it has white appearance and its square door and windows present unique lines. The interior decoration is in harmony with the outer decoration, and the fine structure and concise living space have attractive pure beauty. A house by Gerrit Rietveld In just a few years after Cartier company had devoted to the design and production of watches, during the process of making researches and developments of watches that based on pocket watch, Cartier abandoned the traditional rounded case of pocket watch, it made revolutionary change on the shape of case for centuries that referred to Santos and Tank which were perfect pioneering achievements, and it set a contemporary trend of square watch. Prevalence of straight line and acute angle facilitated the formation of geometric style of decorative art after the war. The contrary phenomenon took place in the 1930s and the 1940s, horologists preferred rounded case again, and there is a undeniable fact that rounded case is coexisting with square case at the present days. The appearance of Tank watch was exactly the complete answer of watchmaking technology and aesthetic concept at that time, hence Tank watch became prevalent rapidly after it had been launched. It became extremely famous and popular watch, and it almost had been the necessaries of aristocrats, financial tycoons and movie stars. However, Tank could become a classic is because it is not limited to a single atmosphere or era. On the contrary, Tank watch had experienced many constant changes of history and culture in its eighty years. At the turn of millennium, it is still stunning, because it had never been modified greatly for the change of times. For another, it also developed various and watches with distinct characteristics which conform to the trend of time and adhere to the basic elements of geometric aesthetic, including Tank Normale (1919), Tank Cintree (1921), Tank Chinoise (1922), Tank Allongee (1922), Tank L.C. (Louis Cartier) (1922), Tank Savonnette (1926), `Petit Tank Rectangle (1926), Tank a Guichets (1928), Tank Baguette (1931), Tank Etanche (1931), Tank Basculante (1932), Tank Asymetrique (1936), Tank Must (1970), Tank Arrondie (Tank Ellipse)(1977), Tank Americane (1989/90), Tank Francaise (1996), Tank Divan (2002) and so on, hence Tank could be phrased by elites in every age. The amazing achievement beyond the times is exactly the authentic reason why Tank could be a classic of the classic. Tank Basculante Tank Normale(1919) According to the record of inventory, Tank was sold 6 pieces in total during the period from November 15th to December 26th in 1919 when it was formally launched. The first batch of end products had been sold out before January 17th, 1920. The earliest Tank watch is called Tank Normale today, and it has distinctive characteristics, including (1) two vertical sides of the case; (2) acute angles of the lugs; (3) silver dial; (4) black Roman numerals; (5) orbit-shaped hour markers; (6) cabochon sapphire was inlaid into pearl-shaped crown. Naturally, these characteristics become the appearance of so-called classical Tank that we are familiar to today. However, there are still small differences between the models of earliest Tank Normale, such as some hour markers of watches are Arabic numerals, but not Roman numerals; or orbit-shaped markers were changed into other style. At the beginning, Tank Normale was produced with size of 9 ligne (measurement unit of traditional watch industry, which is equivalent to 2.25mm), aftermath, it had models with size of 10 and 8 ligne. Tank Cintree(1921) Before the launch of Tank watch, Cartier had launched a square watch in 1915, and it has characteristics that similar to the Tank's: diamond was inlaid into the crown, silver dial with ripples and lugs that integrated with case and so on. Cartier Tank was developed into classical model with rectangular case, and Tank Cintree which was launched in 1921 inherited this trend further. Its case was elongated, so that it can be bent which is more suitable for the curvature of wrist. However, to some extent, it slightly deviated the direction of aesthetic development, because it is slightly identical to Tonneau original watch in 1906, but it has typical wide lugs with sharp edges. Hour markers of Tank Cintree had become slightly arched, which made the extremely long dial look bigger and gentle. Tank Cintree Double Time Zone Tank Chinoise(1922) Unlike the further development of rectangular case of other models, Tank Chinoise launched in 1922 has relatively square shape. The inspiration of Tank Chinoisec is the only one that derived from the oriental architectures. Two horizontals and two verticals created a case with peaceful atmosphere, which is just like sober Chinese temple's. At that time, European always longed to contact Chinese culture, such as Turandot which was premiere opera of Italian opera writer Giacomo Puccini in 1926 took China as the scene of story. The attention that Cartier had paid to Indian and Chinese culture highlighted that Cartier has sensitive taste to fashionable culture. Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Allongee(1922), Petit Tank Rectangle(1926) and Tank Baguette(1931) Tank L.C. (Louis Cartier) Other two Tank models were also launched in 1922, they are Tank L.C (abbreviation of Louis Cartier) and Tank Allongee. Tank L.C was called Tank aux bords arrondis firstly, until 1924 it was renamed Tank L.C. Its characteristic is that the edges of case and lugs are smooth and gentle, unlike the typical beauty of square and liner profile of Tank watch. Furthermore, this characteristic is also one of admirable features of Cartier's decorative art. Tank Allongee is the extended edition of Tank Louis Cartier, it can be said that it is the most representative rectangular watch in the history. On the basis of miniaturization of square case (6 or 7 ligne) and Tank Allongee which made a feature of extreme elongation, Cartier launched Petite Tank (Tank Rectangle) that equipped with Baguette movement (micro movement developed by Cartier and Jaeger cooperatively, and its size could be as small as 2 ligne) in 1926 and Tank Baguette (Rectangular) in 1931. It is worth mentioning that the case of Tank Allongee is thicker than other Tank models, it is suitable for being inlaid with pearls or jewels for the increase of the surface area of both sides, hence many models of Tank Allongee are jewelry watches. Tank Allongee 8 Jours Tank Savonnette(1926) Tank Obus Savonette Savonnette had a protective cover on the crystal originally, and wearer could read the time after the cover has been opened; but the dial of Tank Savonnette is movable. Tank a Guichets(1928) Tank a Guichets was launched in 1928, its origin is closely related to the prevalence of railway and public transportation system in the 19th century. At that time, watches were equipped with new system which used numerals like 10:15 to display the time to display departure and arrival time of trains. And then the design of small window on metal case which could display the time began to be popular in the pocket watch market, which is the so-called cyclops design today. However, this display of time is not as convenient as traditional display, so it was abandoned quickly. Until the 1920s and the 1930s, wristwatches with small window to display the time became to be prevalent again. Traditional dial, crustal and hands were replaced by metal plate which has apertures. Wearer could see a certain part of a saucer from two apertures, one aperture displays hours, while another displays minutes. The former is operated by jump hour mechanism, and the latter is operated by scanning mechanism. From a visual perspective, Tank a Guichets has large areas of pure metal of primary color, which simply reflects the prevalent dull atmosphere because of the crash of stock market in 1929. Aftermath, in order to dilute this flavor, Cartier had made lots of changes on the shape of window, the size, the position of crown and appearance of Tank a Guichets and so on. Tank Etanche(1931) Compared to Rolex that obtained the patent of rounded waterproof case in 1926, Tank Etanche was a more sophisticated waterproof mechanism that produced by Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre cooperatively in 1931, thus it enjoyed pioneering status of square waterproof watches. According to the legend, Pasha (local civil and military official) of Marrakesh ordered a waterproof watch from Cartier in the middle of 1930s, therefore, he could read the time while swim. It is believed that the name of Pasha watch that produced in 1943 was derived from this legend. Nevertheless, Tank Etanche was the only waterproof watch that Cartier had produced, so the watch that Pasha of Marrakesh had ordered shall be square Tank Etanche. The name of Pasha should be derived from this anecdote of ordering a watch, but not the model that Pasha had ordered. Tank Basculante(Tank Reversible)(1932) Just like Tank Etanche, Tank Basculante that produced in 1932 was basically made from Cartier application and Jaeger-LeCoultre patented technology cooperatively, and it was also produced for meeting the demand of specific market. The case of Tank Basculante could be turned over, which is similar to Reverso which was produced by Jaeger LeCoultre afterwards, so that wearer could hide the dial with brisk move and show the case back (always has pattern of initials of wearer). The difference between Tank Basculante and Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso is that: the case of Tank Basculante rotates around the horizontal axis, while the case of Reverso makes sliding rotations around vertical axis. However, the initial demand for this rotary watch was mainly derived from individual customers' consideration of social contact and aesthetic, but not common consideration of functions. Therefore, the original Tank Basculante models were made for requirements of individual customers, there are virtually no two identical models. Tank Basculante Montre Motif Panthere Limited Edition Tank Asymetrique(1936) Just as the same as Tank Basculante, Tank Asymetrique was not considered as a member of Tank family firstly. Until in recent years, Cartier reclassified it to Tank series. Tank Asymetrique which was launched in 1936 is the last model that before the death of Louis-Joseph Cartier in 1942. In fact, at the end of 1920s, Louis-Joseph Cartier considered that the researches and developments of watch's design and functions shall come to an end, because he was not so interested in it as before. However, Tank Asymetrique has become the symbol of contradictory beauty which only can be expressed by Cartier among Tank family. The greatest characteristic of Tank Asymetrique is that the hour markers of 12 and 6 o'clock are moved to the corner of dial, which could make a balanceless beauty. Furthermore, the disposal of orbit-shaped minute hand indication makes Tank Asymetriqu look dreamlike. Tank Asymetrique After the production of Tank Asymetrique, Cartier completely stopped the development of new Tank watches. More accurately, the creation of Cartier watch department went into a stasis. There are the reasons: one is that the Great Depression made the sales of watches decrease rapidly and greatly after the crash of stock market; another reason is that Cartier lost interest and capacity in watches, thus it paid more attention to jewelry business which was less affected. And Loius-Joseph Cartier died in 1942, so Cartier's lost its creative source in watches at the same time. What's worse, round watches became prevalent again for its better waterproof performance, and it can be installed complex functions at low costs. Therefore, round watches became mainstream in the market. Under so many unfavorable pressure, Tank watch still got through 1930s, World War II and post-war period, which verified its sound quality and unique durability. Tank Normale, Tank Asymetrique, and Tank a guichet During these silent years, Tank watch had a revival in the 1950s. At that moment, watches had been a part of daily life. Under the surround of round watches, Tank watch not only could show retro flavor, but also has modernity and beauty without any modification. Elites who pursue find living are always willing to go against the trend to pursue noble quality. In the 1950s, industrial production started to grow substantially, some daily necessities such as cars, typewriters and refrigerators started to enter people's daily life with large quantities. Modern concept made the concise lines be equated with simple design, simplified profile and mechanical beauty. And the beauty of Tank watch which was produced for 30 years ago was consistent with these concepts perfectly. The attraction of Tank had also gotten through the 1960s, and it had attracted well-known people of movies, cultural and political circles, including elites of various professions, such as French president Georges Pompidou, Jacqueline Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor, Brigitte Bardot, Frank Sinatra, Yul Brynner and Ingrid Bergman and so on. Jacqueline Kennedy, a Tank watch on her left hand Tank Must(1977) Cartier has special system that its creative department is along with the manufacturer, while London, New York and Paris branch companies enjoy independent operating rights in businesses. However, this system was confronted with crisis in the 1960s. Cartier family transferred the ownership of Pairs and London branch companies to two different companies, and then Paris branch company was sold to another group, and three companies have the rights to use the trademark of Cartier. New York branch company sold gold Tank watch in the price of only 150 dollars in 1970/71, it is a matter of course that such sale made Tank watch become prevalent in North America in 1970, but it also made a certain degree of damage to the exalted image of Cartier. Until 1972, investment group that led by Joseph Kanoui obtained the control of Paris branch company, and after he was appointed as chairman in 1973, he also got London and New York branch companies in 1974 and 1976 successively, so that Cartier's strategy and top status could be further consolidated. Tank Must de Cartier Cartier launched Tank Must in 1977, and it replaced gold Tank watch which was sold for 150 dollars quickly and served as brand new marketing strategy. Tank Must was sold for about 500 dollars. It not only retains the style of Cartier traditional spirit, but also has competitive price. After it had been launched, in addition to maintaining the marker share of USA, it also reached the goal that the new management of Cartier looked forward to regaining the public's recognition to exalted brand of Cartier. Tank Arrondie(Tank Ellipse)(1977) Tank Ellipse (Arrondie) Just like Tank Must, the new Tank Allongee, Tank Cintree and Tank Arrondie were also launched in 1977. Tank Arrondie adopted the brand new shape, the vertical two sides bent inward, so that a shape which was neither rectangular nor oval was constituted. On the other hand, Tank Arrondie had proved that Cartier has ability of integrating tradition and innovation once again, it just elongated or shortened the lines of both sides of Tank, or sharpened or rounded the corner of Tank, it could produce new model with new feeling, but it also maintains the consistency of Tank watch's characteristic. And then Cartier launched Tank Chinois in 1978, and it launched Tank Chinois for female in 1979. Tank watch entered a slump between 1979 and the 1990s. Quartz and electronic watches became prevalent around the world, and this brought adverse impact on the sale of Cartier watches which were particular about the artistic creativity and sophisticated craftsmanship. And Cartier had made no improvements and innovations on Tank watches, it seemed that Cartier got into a trouble that similar to the one of the 1940s-1960s. Until the 1990s, the revival of mechanical watches and advanced watches awoke Tank watches, so Cartier demonstrated its consistent creative ability again. On the basis of persistence of Tank's tradition, Cartier produced brand new Tank watches constantly. Tank Americane (1989/90) Tank Americane was launched in 1989, and its inspiration was derived from Tank Cintree, but no matter in terms of design or technology, it had been substantially modified. Tank Americane adopted arched case of Tank Cintree, but its case is a smaller rectangular case. Two vertical sides are not so flat, corners are relatively round, and two horizontal sides are smooth. On the whole, Tank Americane showed the interactive application between acute angles and rounded corners, lines and curves, smooth and chiseled corners. It could be called laudatory product to Cartier's tradition for the new generation. Tank Americaine The proportion of Tank Americane's horizontal axis is close to the vertical axis', hence it looks more like square than Tank Chinois, but its corners are rounder, so it looks bigger and more sturdier, which is entirely consistent with its main technical performance. It is the first waterproof curved watch of Cartier, and it also means that Cartier took a step further to advanced factory. Tank Americaine also adopted Cartier folding buckle which was produced in 1988, and it shows that after Cartier joined the production of watches, it could handle the features of all accessories of watches with great carefulness. It is generally believed that "rugged" is the exact word to define the technical information that Tank Americaine had got to design and convey. Its rugged case looks reliable, and this characteristic is consistent with the trend that Reagan Doctrine was fading gradually and people regained sense of fundamental value in the 1990s. The whole generation began to pursue for stability, which made a contrast to the fanaticism of ten years ago. Collection Privee Americaine Tank Double Timezone American Tank Chrono By the way, it is worth mentioning that Cartier launched Tank Basculante limited edition in 1992 again. It had become rare treasure for it was equipped with ultra-thin movement and thinner case, it was only produced 413 pieces, thus it had become the target that watch fans and collectors must search at the auctions. Tank Francaise (1996) Tank Francais Tank Francaise was launched in 1996, and it has contained long-term efforts of designer. This new Tank watch adopted the concept of curved case, and the integration of case and bracelet had been further improved. The design of Tank Francaise was started from the metal bracelet, and then the case which is able to be integrated with bracelet perfectly and maintain the continuity was designed. Eventually, the case and bracelet of Tank Francaise are connected to a whole. Indivisible aesthetic of this watch in the vision made it become the ultimate development of Cartier's design on watch, and it also had become an extraordinary masterpiece of Cartier's design on jewelry. The curvature of bracelet fully offsets the absence of circles which was caused by the adoption of square case. The serrated links of metal bracelet demonstrates the feeling of panzer pedrail, hence it is worthy of its name. Tank Francaise Chrono Of course, Tank Francaise also possesses features of all Tank watches, such as lugs which are parallel to two vertical sides, hour markers of Roman numerals, orbit-shaped hour markers and so on. Unlike the previous Tank watches which have four lines crossed intersected at right angles, the four angles of Tank Francaise had been rounded, and they look still be harmony with the watch after being processed. In addition to the spheroidality of case and the softness of corners, the two vertical sides of Tank Francaise are not absolute straight lines. They just like a pair of brackets, so they jut out slightly. As Cartier's pioneering watch in the 21 century, Tank Francaise is on behalf of the vitality that though Cartier had finished the exploration to geometric profile and aesthetic, it still persists innovative development. Tank a vis (2001) Tank a vis After entering the new century, Cartier always launched new Tank watches, which shows its ambitious purpose to be the leader of expressing aesthetic forms. The launch of Tank a vis exactly adduced that purpose, and it also showed the persistence to traditional watchmaking technology of Cartier. Tank a vis is attached to CPCP (Collection Privee Cartier Paris), in addition to four dainty screws on the front of rectangular case, Tank a vis is equipped with the first rectangular movement that designed by Cartier. After 70 years from the 1930s, this is the only rectangular movement (it is equipped with Cartier C-shaped balance trimmer) of Cartier watches, which is attached to the top-level CPCP series movement of Cartier that made in Paris, but not Switzerland, hence it has great value of collection. Tank a vis Platin The early Cartier watches were mostly equipped with movements made by European Watch & Clock Co. (EWC) or movements of Jaeger Le Coultre, and their accessories were produced by well-known watch factories, while the case was made by Cartier. These popular watches have often been auctioned with high prices in various important antique watches markets and the three major auctions in the world, and they become the targets of many collectors. In recent years, Collection Privee Cartier Paris have become popular among watch collectors for its more sophisticated mechanical movement and fine decorations on the movement. For example, bridge of each movement has double C pattern, its balance wheel is made from Glucydur, and self-winding watches are equipped with 21K rotor, and all panels are made from 18K gold. All these not only show design essence of Cartier, but also fully demonstrate centennial traditional watchmaking technology. Tank a vis deux fuseaux At present, Tank a vis has several models, such as Tank a vis, Dual Time Zone and Time and Calendar. Because of the limited edition (guaranteed that less than 400 pieces) of every model of CPCP, Tank a vis has received high attention from collectors. And Tank a vis Time and Calendar is the most popular one. The 12 o'clock position of Tank a vis Time and Calendar has a jump-hour window (to the left: increase in the number), and the 6 o'clock position has a jump-date window (to the right: increase on the number; there are rows, double digits are above while single digit is beneath). Such design fully broke through the tradition, of course, the most distinctive design is the arched jump-hour window, which has vertical numerals display, it is particular elegant. Tank (a vis) Time and Calendar Tank Divan (2002) Tank Divan After entering the new century, Cartier launched Tank Divan. Its original French meaning is love-seat sofa, so it has unique extra large case. In the meanwhile, it also inherited the characteristics of Tank watches, such as audacious, creative. Rectangular dial, wide crocodile strap and Roman numerals hour markers fully show consistent luxury style of Cartier, and they are also consistent with the demonstration of perfect combination of time and elegance, which is the speciality of Cartier. The numeral markers of 3 and 9 o'clock have been specially enlarged to enhance visual effect and highlight nobleness. The biggest characteristic of Tank Divan is lateral enlargement of dial, which is in accordance with the persistent popularity of large dial in watch industry recently. The dial of Tank Divan is the biggest one among Tank watches, but even it has been worn on slender wrist, it does not look bulky at all, instead, it looks eye-catching and modern. The crucial reason is that its large dial is attached to the wrist laterally, hence it does not look larger than the wrist. Tank Divan Dimonds It is obvious that Tank Divan is the product that Cartier paid homage to surrealistic spirit. It is a gift that given to unconstrained imagination and every intimate moment which should be cherished. Roman numerals hour markers, wide strap and rectangular dial show its unconventional aspect, and its extra large size and refined appearance provide wearer with unique identification, which highlight the extraordinary combination of time and elegance. Tank S (2003) In addition to considering its whole structure from the point of Jewelry aesthetic, Tank watches also had some models that inlaid with diamonds long before. In 1919, Cartier launched six Tank models, and one of them had been inlaid with rose-cut diamonds on both sides of bezel. According to the statement of Cartier, Tank and Santos are the series that seldom equipped with jewelry. Until 1980s, Tank launched some jewelry models. In addition to maintaining the fundamental elements and style, Tank watches in jewelry particularly focus on the processing of metal, the cut of jewels and the arrangement of the quality color of jewels, as well as the materials of strap. In a word, Tank must be able to present various appearances. For example, the cut of diamonds (such as round brilliant, emerald) that inlaid on the bezel could create visual effect of the line changes of the dial and bezel, or adopt various jewels to adapt to the change of different times easily. Tank S Conclusion: Over the past 80 years, Tank watch had been worn by numerable people. Although Tank watches had experienced a great deal of changes of human history and culture, Tank still could adapt to various lifestyles and atmospheres. The original design concept of Tank is to produce a advanced watch, but its taste is so refined. Its elegant shape, geometric lines and concise beauty go well with all occasions, all costumes, and different people hold different views on Tank watches: the symbol of status and achievement, embodiment of refined culture, modern beauty and retro representative of watches, all these opinions depend on different wearers. in terms of this point, Tank watch indeed became the example of watches, because it can show the power of life on the wrist of wearer. Tank Americaine Paris, London and New York: in 1847, 1902 and 1909 respectively. Cartier brothers had set out to conquer another world early and soon. The open attitude and international perspective of Cartier just like a eye-catching red string that run through Cartier's creative career. As symbolized series of Cartier, Tank watches are prominent. After the popularity of Tank Francaise and Tank Americaine, Tank Anglaise became the focus of public concern for its excellence. Tank Anglaise Tank Anglaise looks very "Tank". It has compact modeling, clearer lines, understated design, but it is fascinating. Its design is brilliant, and it also has characteristics of Tank: the integration of lugs and bracelet, Roman numerals, orbit-shaped hour markers, blue steel sword-shaped hands. The genuine highlight is that: crown is hided into the vertical lugs, so its overall structure formed perfect symmetry. Tank Anglaise In terms of pursuing concise modeling and model, this watch had made a great breakthrough. The special design that crown is hided into the vertical lugs aptly confirmed the design concept of Louis Cartier: rigorous aesthetic requirements and integration. All accessories will be a whole, integral but clear. Tank Anglaise (medium-sized) Tank Anglaise (small-sized) Tank Louis Cartier XL (ultra-thin) Tank Anglaise is available in three models in different sizes for male/female, as well as three different gold materials in different color. Tank Anglaise in large size is equipped with Cartier's home-made 1904 MC movement, the exquisite structure of movement can be seen through the transparent sapphire case back. And the history is still continuous and does not stop: Never Stop Tank. Tank Folle As design master of watches, Cartier had made audacious creativity on Tank Folle, and it also inherited exaggeration and fabulous style of Crash watch in the 1960s. Its contorted but harmonious line design looks so unique. Its dial with radial pattern goes well with Roman numeral hour markers and blue steel sword-shaped hands. The fundamental elements of Tank watch are presented in a distinctive way, they show the originality of Cartier. Case and crown are inlaid with brilliant-cut round diamonds. Tank Folle is equipped with hand-wound movement, it has attracted lots of attentions for its amazing appearance, and it is limited edition (only 200 pieces). Tank Folle Tank Louis Cartier XL Since Tank Louis Cartier had launched in 1920s, it always is the symbol of extreme elegance. Moreover, it is eternal classic of Cartier watches. Tank Louis Cartier was produced in 1922, and it is the best demonstration of contemporary style that Louis Cartier advocated. Afterwards, it had made outstanding contributions to the development of Art Deco: the tight lines of square and rectangle got softened, the acute angles got lessened. Eternal classical Tank Louis Cartier launched extra large and ultra thin model, it has clearer lines, and its thickness (5.1mm) is the thinner one among Tank family. This watch is equipped with hand-wound mechanical movement, it is the perfect combination of attractive appearance and masculinity.