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  1. Equipped with IWC 89801 self-made movement Mechanical chronograph movement 12 o'clock position shows the cumulative hours and minutes in read mode Flyback function Has a calendar that includes large digital dates and months Leap year show Mechanical inside and outside the rotating bezel, equipped with a safe diving system IWC Wanguo watch chain quick replacement system Waterproof 10 bar (about 100 meters) The dial, dial and rotating inner ring have a luminous coating Automatically on the chain, on the full chain can provide 68 hours power reserve The small seconds are attached to the 6 o'clock position
  2. Q1: I feel too tight when winding my watch, I can not go on winding after 3 or 4 rotations. But the watch works accurate, just 2 or 3 seconds faster per day. A: It is not the mechanical fault. May be the O-ring of the crown is too tight, or not lubricant engough. Don't care about it if the automatic function still works well and it is still powerful without winding. But the watch has to be checked if it needs manual winding to keep moving. Another possibility of this problem is that the inner oil has dried. Q2: My friend's watch case has many scratches, could it be repaired with polishing? A: If it has very serious scratches, I suggest you have it re-polished slightly because a thorough polishing would damage the whole case outline. Q3: In this case, if it is possible to change a new case, how much is it? A: IWC factory offers such service, it's great but the payment is too high. Q4: My watch is 8 seconds fast per day, no matter how I place it at night! A: It just need to be adjusted a little slow if being maintained. Q5: What is the criterion of small position difference? A: Position difference is the time inaccuracy in different position, it is easy to adjust the time accuracy if the watch has a small position difference. Few brands would set a criterion on the position difference, they used to checking the standard deviation. Q6: My portofino is 20 seconds fast per day, whether should I take it to be adjusted? A: Take it to the custom service first, it's easy to be solved without opening the caseback if it was magnetized. But it should be opened if it was confirmed that the movement runs faster. Don't forget to take your guarantee card! Q7: Why is the inaccuracy different when the watch being worn on wrist and when it was put in the self-winding box? My Ingenieur watch has no time error on wrist, but it was 3 seconds fast after bing put in the self-winding box for a day? And it returned to zero error when I put on it again. A: The inaccuracy of a watch is related to how to place it. For example, when you are wearing the watch, the crown may be adown for a long time, but after you put it in the box, the dial upwards, so existence of time error is normal. Q8: How to keep the leather straps being water-resistant and sweat-resistant? A: Use waterproof agent and eradicator for leather. Q9: What can I do in case the dust went into the IWC watch? Could I only clean the dust when maintaining the watch? By the way, it is real that the tridimentional indexes of Mark 16 are easy to fall off? A: IWC watches are not easy to get dust in when the crown is locked tight, and you can take it to the custom service if it got dust inside, but I suggest not if it's not serious. And I have not heard the tridimentional indexes of Mark 16 are easy to fall off. Sometimes the falling off of the indexes is related to how you wear the watch, it's easy to loose under frequent shaking. Q10: Is it normal that the watch get dust in after sometime wearing? If there is dust inside the watch, does that mean the water resistance is wrong? A: It's abnormal to me that the dust could enter into the watch, if the dust can get in, so do the water. So, I think the dust was originally in the watch, Some dust was left in corners of the watch in the assembly process, and when the customers are wearing it, the dust will move into their eys. Q11: Is it normal that the Ingenieur AMG keeps 5 seconds fast per day? Both my old Mark 16 and Portuguese are only 2 seconds fast. A: It is absolutely normal that a mechanical watch runs 5 seconds fast per day. Q12: Should I take my IWC to be maintained if I wear it every day? If so, how much should I pay for? I have two Titanium Aquatimers, how should I maintain Titanium case? A: The watch needs maintenance every 4 or 5 years with normal wearing. The technology to polish Titanium is different to SS case polishing, but both have the same effect. Careful wearing with your Titanium watch, scratches are easily polished, but it is hard to be repaired after being collided. An overall maintenance, including a common polishing of the case, needs about several hundreds dollars. Q13: I found the time of date change has delayed day by day. It initially jumped at 0:00:45, now the date jumps at 0:07. A: Taking some time for obeserving, if it keeps delaying, then the date wheel must be wrong. Q14: I left my Portuguese at home for 2 days, and I found its minute hand moved less than a grid while the second hand had moved a round. I originally think I didn't wind the watch enough, but after re-wind it, the problem still exist. A: Try to pull out the crown when the second hand is between 45 and 50 markers and adjust the minute hand to the right index, then press down the crown back. Q15: I have been wearing my watch for over one week and found unacceptable that one of the strap loops was broken. Can I change a new strap for free? A: Generally, straps belong to outward components, the issue would be very troubled if it obviously was caused by outside force, and you can change it if it just debonded. Q16: What's the size of IW3234 strap? What do the number 24 and 22 stand for? If I want to order a pair of straps for IW3234, which type and size should I choose? What size of the IW3234 folding clasp should I buy? A: The size of straps on IW3234 should be 22/18. The number 24 is the size of the strap that attaches to your watch, 22 is the buckle size. Buy a folding clasp in the exclusive shop, Generally, the size of a IWC folding clasp is in 18mm. Q17:How much strength can the crown suffer? I didn't notice and I pull out the crown thoroughtly when I was adjusting the time yesterday, I'm afraid that whether the tinny crown would loose? A:Take it easy! It doesn't matter, but you'd better be careful next time. Q18: I pressed down the crown after finish adjusting the date and I heard a strange noise "tick", I'm so doubt that I have never heard that noise before, so I loosed the crown and try pressing for several times and I heard this noice a few times. Then, I searched online, someone said that is the crown be pushed-in by a large force without aligning the thread that will damage the thread in the case and caused slipped screws. I have do this for many times, would my case threads being worn ahead of time? A: It seldom has such a problem to the steel crown tube, and the threads can not easy to be broken by a large force pushing in. You don't need to knock so tight but the crown can not be rotated. Sometimes, a platinum watch will have a problem of a broken thread because this material is soft, but the steel watch seldom have this problem. Q19: After several days of observing, I found the IW3234 is several seconds slow every day. Is it normal for a IWC watch? I adjusted the date impludently at midnight on December 1, will this influence the movement function? A: Generally, watches often run a little faster after out of the factory, or it's really unfortunate that your watch runs slower. Just observing for several days, and then, if you are sure your watch still runs slower, then taking it to the custom service, and opening the back to adjust, or waiting to the maintanance period. If you want to adjust the date, it can be achieved by adjusting the hands through the crown. Don't change the date directly. Q20: My watch has about 5 seconds error since I bought it, but it ran slower for several days, but the official said IWC watch would not run slow, so I'm confused. Will that be exaggerated to open the back to adjust? The date of the IW3234 has 31 days each month, I adjusted it from 31st to 1st through moving the hands. A: If you can not stand the time errors, the only way to solve this problem is opening the back to adjust. Many factors can influence the time accuracy, for example, the way you place your watch. According to your words, 5 seconds error is normal, you don't need to regulate it. There are two methods to adjust the date, the first method is to adjust directly, pull out the crown at first "click"(the second hand still running), then rotate the crown to change the date, the second way is adjusting by moving the hands, pull out the crown at the second "click"(the second hand stop running), rotate the crown to adjust the time 24 hours faster, then you'll notice the changing of date. Q21: It's that hard to pull out the crown of Mark 16 to the second "Click". I bought a Mark 16 that is easy to pull out the first "Click", but it's hard to pull out to the second. A:Yes, it's a bit tight relatively. Remember to lock the crown after finishing adjusting. Q22: My new strap is very hard, I have heard that it could be soft by wiping some lanolin oil. Should I wipe it inner or outer(the inner part means the part touches our skin)? A: I think it should be wiped in the inner part. Q23: Mark 16, which I bought in July, it ran well at the beginning and only had 1 second error, but it became slowly a month ago, and I have adjusted the time for several times and it would be 40 seconds slow every 3 or 4 days. Should the reason be the rare actions of my wrist? How many times should be appropriate if I want to wind it manually? A: Trying to wind the watch 20 or 30 rotations every time and observing. Q24: My IWC 322701 that was bought half a year ago and it keeps stable for 4 seconds fast every day. But I recently found it is 1 second slower every day. By the way, I doubt whether the watch will be influenced by temperature? A: Temperature had ever been an important factor, but the modern materials have nearly overcome this issue. It has less influence when under the room temperature, the small error might be caused by different position, or the winding rate and the small changes of the spring force under the same circumstance. I mean, many factors can influence the time, you shouldn't care much if the error of your watch keeps in the range, just enjoy it. Q25: The part of Ingenieur 3234 that is used to connect the case and straps is different from the other Ingenieurs? A: In my memory, they are different because the Ingenieur 3234 has been changed to use a spring loaded lever. Q26: Does it need any special tool to remove the straps off the case? A: It only needs a screwdriver, but it needs to loose two ends to pull-out the strap. Q27: The crystal of my Big Pilot has a 1mm scratch at 8 o'clock position, any ideas could help? If I want to change a crystal, how much should pay for? A: I guess the scratch is on the coating of the crystal, if it really has a scratch on the crystal, the only way can help is to be changed. Q28:I owned a IWC Portofino 356404, the last time it has been maintained in custom service at the end of 2008, and I found it stopped working a few days ago although I wore it all the time, and I can not hear the sound of the swinging auto rotor when I shake the watch. I initially thought the auto rotor has dropped, but the manual winding still worked. After several days, I felt that it is hard to wind manually, this feel was not apparent that I guessed I got a mistake feeling. Then, I took it to the store, opened it, found the auto rotor didn't fall and it moved smoothly, but it still had that noise after locking the case and it could not keep working without manul winding, do anyone know what is the issue? A: If the auto rotor can not swing, it might rub with the caseback, and the reason could be the deformation of the caseback or the loosing of the screws on rotor. Check if the auto rotor has loosed? It must be still in the maintanance period, take it to the custom service if possible. Q29: How to clean the steel bracelet? A: Using washing-up liquid, toothbrush and water, flush and wipe it dry. Q30: New Split-Minute feature controlled by the switch on the left side of IWC Aquatimer IW372304 couldn't be pressed, is that serious? How much should I pay for if being repaired? A: For a movement, it's very serious that the function disables, but it doesn't matter if you don't need this function. It depends on specific analysis, if the inner hook broken that you have to send it back to Switzerland and it needs much money that may be more than 800 us dollars. But if it just off, then install it back. Q31: I didn't wear my Big Pilot Watch for several days because I changed to wear a steel bracelet watch in the summer, and it stopped working, but the 7-day power reserve hand didn't go back to zero and stop between 0 and 1. Should it be repaired? Or repairing it untill the maintanance period 2 years later? A: It's acceptable that having a little error according the testing criterions, but IWC 7 days power reserve was assured to return to the zero posititon. My suggestion is taking it to the custom service before the deadline of the maintanance period, they may offer you service for free. Q32: I had an automatic watch which I only wear 2 to 3 month a year, should I wind it in any other time? How often should it be winded? I have bought an auto-winding box, but someone said that watches will be wore after a long time working. is that real? A: You'd better let your watch work for some time without wearing it for a long time. The abrasion usually appears when the oil dried, that's why watches need to be maintained. Q33: My friend bought a Portoguese watch less than 3 month, but it seems the auto rotor went wrong. It stopped after a few hours I took it off and it sounds strange, I couldn't hear the previous winding noise. A: The auto rotor lossed, just take it to the custom service. Q34: The hands of IWC Portifino do not emit light at night, can I order the original hands? A: You can take it to the after-sale service to change the hands, or asking them to re-lume them, but generally they allow you.t. Q35: The Pilot's Watch is said to be antimagnetic, but I doubt that, what's the level of its antimagnetic degree? A: Ingenieur specification has listed very clearly that Ingenieur antimagnetic to 80000 A/M, Pilot's Watch antimagnetic to 35000 A/M and the common watches antimagnetic to 4800 A/M. Q36: I want to ask the antimagnetic function of the IW500901, it's said that it used pure iron, will be more easy to be magnectized? A: It's true that pure iron is easy to be magnetized, but you have to know it has a quickly demagneticzing function when it left away from magnectic field. And the magnetic field will not easy to leak and influence the movement for pure iron is easier to be magnetized that can protect the movement.
  3. Florentine A Jones 1868 - Florentine A Jones, a Boston engineer, came to Switzerland and built IWC(International Watch Co.) in Schaffhausen. He built a new hydroelectric power plant to offer consecutive power for the machines and invited a watch maker who deeply knew the traditional watch making skill of Schaffhausen. The glorious history development of IWC was based on enthusiasm Mr. Jones. Digital Pocket Watches in 1885 1885 - The first watches that used patented Pallweber stystem were made, these watches had digital hour and minute display and IWC became the first brand to do this in the world. Magique Pocket Watch 1887 - "Magique" had been lauched, this pocket watch featured a cabriolet case and a 24-hour display, it could be used as a hunter or open-face pocket watch. Cal. 52 Movement 1893 - Started to produce Calibre 52 pocket watch movement. First Wristwatch in 1899 1899 - The first wristwatches we knew were lanched. Calibre 75 and 76 1915 - IWC firstly developed calibres for wristwatches, the Calibre 75 and 76. Square IWC with Cal.87 1931 - IWC created the rectangle wristwatch that looked graceful, and it was equipped with the new tonneau-shaped Calibre 87 movement. Mark IX 1935 - IWC firstly launched the Mark IX that was specially designed for pilots. Portuguese Wristwatch 1938 - IWC produced large Portuguese wristwatch that was equipped with accurate, reliable pocket watch movement. W.W.W. 1944 - IWC launched the waterproof wristwatch (W.W.W) that was the appropriative watch for the British Army. The characters W.W.W stood for Waterproof, Wrist and Watch. Pellaton System 1950 - IWC not only launched the first automatic movement that irritated a competition in watch field, but also reserched and developed the Pellaton Winding System that was still used in many movements. The Pellaton System is a patent of IWC. Ingenieur in 1955 1955 - The birth of automatic Ingenieur wristwatch. Its inner case material is antimagnetic soft iron. Cal. 44. 1959 - Researched and made Calibre 44 movement, which was IWC's first automatic movement for ladies wristwatches. Aquatimer Ref 812AD 1967 1967 - The Aquatimer Automatic was launched that was water-resistant to 200 meters, it was the watch for professional divers.(In fact, IWC was one of the pioneers that had been researching and manufacturing professional diver's watches, we have discussed its legendary diving watches and the cooperation with Porsche Design in topic "The Story of Diver's Watches", you can read it here, http://www.watchtalkforum.com/topic/1121-the-story-of-divers-watches/) Da Vinci Quartz Da Vinci Beta-21 1970 - The first wristwatch that used Beta-21 quartz movement was born, named Da Vinci. Pocket Watch with Calibre 9721 1977 - The launch of Calibre 9721 movement. The first IWC pocket watch with calendar and moon phase display. IWC started to research and develop complicated watches. Porsche Design Compass Watch by IWC 1978 - The first compass watch was launched that stood for the begining of the 20-year cooperation between IWC and desiger F.A. Porsche. Porsche Design Ocean 2000 Bund by IWC 1982 - At the requirement of Federal German Navy, IWC launched Ocean 2000, which was waterproof to 2000 meters and completely antimagnetic. Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar 1985 - IWC launched the first Da Vinci wristwatch that had perpetual calendar function. It displayed the year with 4 digits, and you could adjust it through the crown. Grande Complication 1990 1990 - IWC launched a Grande Complication that had perpectual calendar, chronograph and minute repeater functions. It was the first time for IWC to apply so many complicated features in a wristwatch. II Destriero Scafusia 1993 - For celebrating the 125 anniversary of IWC, it launched 125 pieces of II Destriero Scafusia, the masterpiece featured a tourbillon, split-seconds, minute repeater and perpetual calendar. Mark XII 1994 - Mark XII Pilot's Watch continued the legend of Mark XI. Portuguese Small Seconds Novecento Automatic 1996 - IWC launched elegant Portuguese Automatic that featured a small second hand, and the Novecento Automatic watch, which was square and waterproof but didn't have perpetual calendar function. GST 1997 - The release of IWC GST sports watch line. UTC Pilot's Watch 1998 - IWC designers developed the UTC Pilot's Watch. Deep One 1999 - IWC launched the diver's watch GST Deep One, which was the first wristwatch with a mechanical depth gauge. Portuguese with Calibre 5000 2000 - IWC lauched a litmited edition, Portuguese Automatic, which used a new automatic movement that had 7 days power reserve. Big Pilot 2002 - At SIHH, IWC released the Big Pilot with 7-day movement, which was automatic winding and had power reserve and date display. The watch had the power reserve that was up to 168 hours. Portuguese Group Spitfire 2003 - IWC launched a new Portuguese Perpetual Calendar watch that had a newly designed perpectual calendar and exclusive hemisphere moon phase display. Another highlight was the Spitfire. Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette in 2004 2004 - IWC launched a new gerneration of Aquatimer. Portuguese series also added new members: Portuguese Tourbillon Mystère, Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette and Portuguese Automatic. Spitfire Chrono 2006 - IWC presented 5 modified pilot's watches, including Big Pilot and Pilot's Chrono. Spitfire series also had new face, for example, the large-size Spitfire Chronograph. Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Kurt Klaus Edition 2007 - IWC launched the tonneau-shaped Da Vinci collection, which included Da Vinci Chronograph, Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Kurt Klaus Edition. 2008 - On the 140th anniversary of tis foundation. IWC launched the unique re-edition series for paying tribute to the legendary base work of six big families. Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month 2009 - IWC launched a new generation of Aquatimer and new models. The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month that had big digital display for date and month attracted much the attention of the public. Portuguese Tourbillon Mystere Retrograde in 2010 2010 - IWC launched the Tourbillon Mystere Retrograde that firstly combined the flying tourbillon and the retrograde function. Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia 2011 - The most eye-catching production was the Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days that used the newest in-house Calibre 59210. Moreover, a new model Ingenieur Double Chronograph Titanium was lauched. In August, IWC presented the most unique and complicated mechanical watch - Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia. Top Gun Miramar 2012 - IWC launched five new Top Gun watches, a Spitfire Perpectual Calendar Digital Date-Month and a Pilot's- Watch Worldtimer. Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month 2013 - To celebrate the cooperation with MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS Formula One Team, IWC launched the upgraded Ingenieur, which included Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon and Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month. Ingenieur Carbon Ingenieur Dual Time IWC Aquatimer Collection 2014 - Two new high-tech Ingenieur watches were released as well as three Aquatimer models. To fully understand the background of IWC watch, read more about its series introduction: Aquatimer: http://www.watchtalkforum.com/topic/1219-the-historical-root-of-iwc-aquatimer/ Da Vinci: http://www.watchtalkforum.com/topic/1227-a-brief-introduction-of-iwc-da-vinci/ Ingenieur: http://www.watchtalkforum.com/topic/1198-the-classic-reappears-iwc-ingenieur/ Pilot's Watch: http://www.watchtalkforum.com/topic/1156-flying-with-the-king-of-pilots-watch-iwc-pilots-watch/ Portofino: http://www.watchtalkforum.com/topic/1246-the-representative-of-classic-iwc-portofino/ Portuguese: http://www.watchtalkforum.com/topic/1094-the-most-complete-introduction-of-iwc-portugieserportuguese/
  4. In-house 30110 (5): ETA 28920 30710 (5): ETA 2892 GMT 33110 (5): ETA 2892 50900 (9): In-house automatic tourbillon 7-days 51010 (8): In-house automatic 7-days 51110 (8): In-house automatic 7-days 79091 (8): ETA/Valjoux 7760 Grand Complication 79230 (6): ETA/Valjoux 7750 Split-second 79240 (5): ETA/Valjoux 7750 79261 (6): ETA/Valjoux 7750 79320 (5): ETA/Valjoux 7750 79350 (5): ETA/Valjoux 7750 79470 (6): ETA/Valjoux 7750 Split minute 80110 (6): In-house. Automatic 95290 (8): In-house minute repeater manuelt 95611 (8): In-house perpetual calendar 7-days automatic 98290 (7): In-house. FA. Jones manuelt baseret på lommeursværket IWC cal. 982 887 (7): JLC 889/2. Benyttes ikke længere
  5. IWC is distinctive among the Swiss watch making factory, the company name we can see is pure English, there is different from Swiss brand filling with French. On the other hand, the image and spirit of IWC is full of solid impression from German Engineering Technology. Actually, IWC was founded in Switzerland near the border of German Schaffhausen in 1868 by an engineer Florentine Ariosto Jones from American Boston. Florentine Ariosto Jones is an engineer and idealist with shrewd business sense. When he was across the Atlantic by ship, he has a set of clever plan, intending to set up the watch making manufacturer in Rhein, utilizing the abundant hydraulic energy and low-cost labor workforce in Switzerland, combining with American industrial machinery to produce the precise pocket watch. And then launch a horology technology revolution and become the cradle of original and precise watch making industry. IWC pocket watch with Jones Caliber improved the precision and temperature level. It was popular in the pocket watch market during the turn of the century. IWC published Grande Complication pocket watch in 1890, which won the praise from AIHH and certificate of quality becoming hot watch to collector, even pope, Bulgarian empire and Prime Minister Churchill of UK has become the customer to IWC. The origin of IWC antimagnetic watch In the early 20th century, the production and operation of IWC gradually moved to watch, and they maintained the tradition of professional technical watch making. In the First World War, IWC manufactured a large numbers of luminous military watch. During the Second World War, IWC launched the particular antimagnetic watch B-Uhr for German Luftwaffe pilots. The Caliber 52SC of B-Uhr was mainly researched and developed by the Caliber 52 of IWC pocket watch. Owing to adapt the gloomy and electromagnetic radiation environment in aircraft cockpits, B-Uhr pilot's watch adopts big central second hand and install soft iron between dial and movement, which protect the movement from magnetic field interference to influence the precision of movement. IWC made further efforts to antimagnetic technology, created Mark x pilot's watch providing to Royal Air Force in 1943. Then it evolved to Mark XI from 1947 to 1948. The origin of classic: The history of Ingenieur After the Second World War, the world entered the booming era of electron and technology and engineering. There are major breakthroughs in machine manufacturing, aviation technology and communication transmission and so on. This electromagnetism have a significant impact on the precision of mechanical watch, so Swiss watch making industry focus on researching and developing antimagnetic watch. Patek Philippe also published antimagnetic watch in the early 1950s. After the war, the trend of the time impacts on Swiss watch making industry, that is self winding watch. The manufacturers concentrated on developing automatic watch and publishing the patent design. IWC Ingenieur was the classical product under the trend of the time. IWC employed Albert Pellaton as technical director in 1944. Because self winding movement can acquire continuous power from swinging and become the symbol of advanced technology; his primary mission was developing the new self winding movement. Horologe industry appeared several self winding device, but Albert Pellaton insisted on his own idea starting to develop. As an engineer. Pellaton focus on two devices, firstly, installed spring to rotor to improve the operational reliability. Another is simple and efficient steel wheel winding device to transmit the power to barrels. This was called Pellaton Winding Ratcheted system which acquired the exclusive patent to IWC. The antimagnetic soft iron bezel and pellaton winding device can be seen in Ingenieur Caliber 8541 Perfect ingenieur characteristic Albert Pellaton was a perfectionist, it is said that he would throw the discontent watch to Rhine in the adjacent bridge. Then he would restart to produce the watch which can meet his demand. So he acquired the patent of self winding device in 1946, he was not satisfied with it and continue to improve. Until 1950, Caliber 81 was released and improved to 85 self winding movement in1951. Cal.852 (no date) and Cal.8521 (date) was launched in 1952 and 1953, these devices became the masterpiece to collector. Ingenieur Caliber 8521 Cal.8521 became horologe high technological paragon in the early 1950s, this reflected scientific and technical engineers were ambitious to transform the world. Meanwhile, IWC realized that a watch must possess succinct appearance and high-tech. According to this principle, the watchmaker of IWC decided to adopt the technology of pilot's watch Mark XI in this new self winding movement to protect against the magnetic field, including soft iron case, movement ring and case back. In addition, manufacturer made escapement by Durochrom increasing the antimagnetic force to reach 80,000 A/m. This was the cause of IWC legendary Ingeieur watch, which demonstrated people were confident to the scientific and technological progress at that time. The development of machinery and electronic industry facilitate the birth of antimagnetic mechanical watch. The origin of Ingenieur The original Ingenieur unveiled from 1954 to 1955. Though the dial engraved thunderbolt arrow, the case and dial adopted the classical design in the early 50s instead of the military style like Mark XI, such as silver pie pan dial and metal strip numeral index. Apart from the elegant appearance, Ingenieur emphasized performance and technology possessing solid movement and excellent waterproof. It is said that Edmund Hillary wore Ingenieur watch in several expeditions. Ingenieur Caliber 85X self winding
  6. Moon phase is the complicated function of mechanical watch in entry level. It can appear the phases of the moon by the gear turning. At first, this was the tool to tide and solar terms. Up to now, its decorative function is more than the practical function. This had to mention a great man Kurt Klaus who have worked for 50 years in IWC. His was a disciple of Albert PELLATON (invented the famous IWC PELLATON winding structure) and succeeded Pellaton becoming the technical director of IWC. In 1974, the employees of IWC decreased to 145, they only work four days a week. None of the drawing engineer left with the decrease of employees. Although his responsibility was to make the watch model, he must be self-reliance at that time. First is made the pocket watch with perpetual calendar device. The pocket watch was popular at that time; this was the only choice to mechanical movement to rally because the pocket watch was rare to use the quartz movement. Klaus used the whole perpetual calendar system to indicate day, week, month, year and moon phase. All of the spare time spends with it. Klaus work for himself without extra pay. Afterwards, he explains the idea to the management which agrees with it and can assist the manufacturers to produce the mechanical watch. Klaus started to come true this idea and manufactured the parts by himself. Finally, the first pocket watch Ref.5250 (9721 model movement) with moon phase display was launched in 1977. Everyone was excited about this success and saw the hope through making the extraordinary watch to save the mechanical watch. So the management assigned a mission: continue to manufacture pocket watch, and then IWC starts a full-time job again. Fortunately, IWC was acquired by a German instrument manufacturer VDO Adolf SCHINDLINGAG, which produced automobile and watch parts. IWC cannot sell profitably at that time; the acquisition brought investment and injected the fresh blood. In 1970s, the pocket market started to fade. Every one chose wrist watch instead of pocket watch. The CEO of IWC decided to research and development wrist watch. It was generally acknowledged that the "compass"moon phase watch was the first moon phase launching in 1978 during the cooperative period with Porsche. Actually, this appeared in 1984. IWC made full use of sophisticated technology to launch "the first"moon phase Portofino Ref.5251, which is the reprint of pocket watch technology. Klaus and another designer HANO BURTSCHER had a dinner in a restaurant at a time, they discuss to design a new moon phase watch. This is a long night, they wrote the sketch design in the napkin without paper and pen. In 1982, IWC tried to launch the first moon phase chronograph watch Ref .3710(795movement)in its true sense. This was a magnificent feat to finish it without any help of CAD software relying on mathematic, modeling technique and insisting the idea "the simplest is always the best". There existed a problem to perpetual calendar over the years: the regulation of days, weeks, months, years and moon phase was out of sync. It means that watch runs synchronous in normal circumstances. The wearer should adjust the date as the mainspring stop and check the calendar to adjust moon phase information if the watch equips with moon phase. The above process has become the standard of tradition watch. This is the reason why most of traditional perpetual calendar watch equips with watch rotor. This situation has continued to 1885. In this year, the talented technical director Kurt Klaus of IWC illuminated the corner of perpetual calendar structure by the Synchronous adjustment technique. He brought the moon phase perpetual calendar watch with the most advanced and cheapest all over the world, and the position of IWC perpetual calendar has promoted to high status.
  7. The innovative craft of Schaffhausen is full of praise by the watch lovers in the professional watch making area. IWC was famous for the leading technology for a long time. IWC is the first factory to adopt titanium and ceramic,besides; it is enjoying the longest history in the making experience of high-tech material. The modern watch lovers focus on the in-house movement instead of the watch craft or material. The 100% in-house movement just exists in theory under the global economic environment. The lever escapement remains the same relatively, and it is normal to adopt the different suppliers for screw, spring and gear. IWC launched the TOP GUN ceramic pilot's collection in 2008. The case is made by high-tech ceramic and the operating device and case back was made by grey titanium. The black dial possesses luminescent coating. The soft iron inner case took on the heavy responsibility of antimagnetic, using zirconium oxide powder and a curing agent to fire, possessing the characteristics of antimagnetic, acid proofing.The whole case is made of ceramic except the case back. Making the ceramic case roasted in the high temperature of 1500-2000 degree through the complicated cooling process to make the material reaching extra-hard (Vickers hardness>8), possessing the characteristics of antimagnetic, acid proofing. This used the zirconium oxide powder and a curing agent in high temperature burn of 2000 degree and incised by diamond cutter, possessing the features of antimagnetic,acid proofing, anti collision. It cannot cause skin irritation like the titanium. The zirconium oxide did not exist before 1983; this is a special material hardness of high-tech. It is impossible to break and scratch. The attribute approaches to porcelain in the hardness and other aspects. Chemical formula:ZrO2, melting point: 2677 degree Centigrade,density: 5680 kg m -3,white colored solid. In 1986, IWC adopted the new type ceramic material- zirconium dioxide to make case. This was a technical feat at that time and reflected the combination of science, art and craft. IWC just tried to the white and black case of zirconium oxide in Vinci collection, there did not put into production. Then, from 1994 to 1999, IWC produced automatic pilot chronograph (IW3705) black zirconium oxide case, which cost is more expensive 50% than the common stainless steel case. Certainly, compared to the present Top Gun ceramic case,the previous technology was part of "black stainless case". Owing to the limited technical strength, negative cost and market response,IWC have not actively promoted. In 2006, IWC released 1000 limited ceramic split-second pilot belonging to the mature product of modern significance after 7 years. This watch combined with titanium comparing with the previous product. Nowadays,the case of TOP GUN utilize the new production technology CIM-Ceramic Injection Molding, is different from IW3705 and IW3786 in combination of zirconium dioxide powder and adhesives. This is more efficient and precise to mold them. The application of high-tech zirconium dioxide ceramic not only increase the design appeal, this is abrasion proof and scratch resistant material, and adapt to the watch which frequently have the opportunities to crash, shake or scratch. This watch case can bear the kind of impact.
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