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  1. Good Evening, My fist time on a watch forum- but as an active user/reader on BMW forums for the last 15 years, I have seen first hand, that a great deal of knowledge for any purchase or brand can be learned on well respected forums. I currently own a Stainless Cartier Roadser XL (with 2 additional interchangeable straps, purchased new in 2009) and a Rose Gold Audemars Piguet Ref 15400 with black leather strap, no chrono (41mm). I also have a first generation Hermes Edition Apple watch (I believe its 42mm?) but I hardly use it. Currently, I am on the hunt for another watch- this time a 41mm Stainless AP, no chrono, Blue or Gray face. Ref 15400 or 15500, new/used doesn't matter, as long as it has box, papers and it is a credible seller I don't mind. Forgive the "newbie" question- but can someone please explain to me whats the deal with the resale price of these watches? What is the real reason behind the blue face going well over 10k over retail in the second hand market? Can anyone recommend a good second hand market or a push in the right direction for the next step? Regards, brchp
  2. There is no doubt that AUDEMARS PIGUET created a miracle of watch technology since the Tradition of Excellence collection launched. Every piece is epitomized of the variety of complicated watch making technology. It was named as No.X of Tradition d'Excellence Collection by the official for paying homage to the Seven Wonders of the World. They were called eight masterpieces when the eight was marketed. The fifth piece has been launched so far. These watches which are issued 20 pieces adopt 950 platinum case alligator strap and sapphire crystal caseback. Collecting them as a whole set so to become a dream of watch collector all around the world. Now these treasures will be introduced one by one. The first piece is the Jules AUDENARS series launched in 1999, adopting Cal.2876 movement and equipping with the function of tourbillion, minute repeater and split-seconds chronograph. Reference is 25923PT.OO.D0022CR.01 and diameter is 43mm. The dial is white, roman numerals index, central seconds, minutes at 3 o’clock, tourbillion at 6 o’clock. The first works is most important cause you will have the priority to purchase the continual woks. 1 hours 2 minutes 3 seconds 4 chronograph minute hand 5 chronograph second hand 6 split-seconds 7 chronograph function 8 reset button 9 split-seconds function 10 time setting or winding Cal.2876 movement technical data TOTAL THICKNESS:8.85mm TATAL DIAMETER: 29.90mm not equip with bezel diameter:29.30mm Frequency of balance wheel:3 (21600Alternances/hour)Hz numbers of ruby:40 the highest power reserve : 48 h manual winding KIF ELASTOR shock resistance system BREGUET spring screw balance the separated parts:474 pieces The second also a series of JULES AUDEMARS which adopt Cal.2869 movement and equip with tourbillion, minute repeating, perpetual calendar and calendar was launched in 2000 reference:25948PT.OO.D0022CR.01,diameter:43mm. The calendar window is at 2 o’clock, week is at 3 o’clock, month is at 9 o’clock, and tourbillion is at 6 o’clock. The dial is white and roman numerals index. The second is in the accordance with the first one, the first is chronograph style and the second is perpetual calendar. So it is perfect to collect the first and second of Tradition of Excellence. You can describe these product is disciplinary. AP retain serious and traditional attitude to create the classic. This round watchcase must become to the traditional classic. 1 hour hand 2 minute hand 3 second hand 4 week 5 Month 6 Date7 date regulator 8 week regulator 9 month regulator 10 Leap year 11 time setting or winding Cal.2869 movement technical data TOTAL THICKNESS:7.60mm TATAL DIAMETER: 29.90mm not equip with bezel diameter:29.30mm Frequency of balance wheel:3 (21600Alternances/hour)Hz numbers of ruby:38 the highest power reserve : 48 h manual winding BREGUET spring screw balance the separated parts:443 pieces The third piece which launched in 2000 is Edward PIGUET series, adopting Cal.2894 movement and equipping with tourbillion, chronograph, power DYNAMOGAPH, central minute accumulator and 70 hours power reserve display. The reference is 25958PT.OO.D002CR.01,the diameter is 53.8x35mm. There are different from the former. The third piece adopts aesthetics of Edward PIGUET serious and manifests the excellent property of the chronograph. The chronograph is quite distinctive. The chronograph second equip with centre. The components are made of the latest material, such as it can reduce the titanium alloy in parts of inertia and preventing the ARCAP alloy from oxidizing. The dial use oxide black carve, the center and bezel presents blue color engraving decoration. 18k platinum set in Arabic numerals and index. Meanwhile, there is only three and nine Arabic numerals shows modernization in dial design. Power DYNAMOGAPH is like two anchors, also like eyes looking at 6 o’clock of tourbillion. There are conceptual shadows in brand Log plate at 12 o’clock. In the third one, the most anticipated part is the power describer called as “the watch critical invention in a hundred years. This is the exclusive invention device which can convert the status of winding change strength to open-and-shut indication launched in 2000 by AP. As long as the Power DYNAMOGAPH hands are located in the certain place, it shows the energy of mainspring can provide the optimum precision to movement. If it deviated to the certain area, which means you have to wind it by hand. This function can make the movement to achieve the optimum status and increase the precision of the chronograph. 1 hour hand 2 minute hands 3 30 minute chronograph 4 chronograph second hand Cal.2894 movement technical data TOTAL THICKNESS:8.90mm TATAL DIAMETER: 36.80mm x 30.40mm Frequency of balance wheel:3 (21600Alternances/hour) Hz numbers of ruby:37 The highest power reserve: 70 h Manual winding KIF ELASTOR shock resistance system BREGUET spring Screwed balance the separated parts:474 pieces Wheeled balance Columnar wheel chronograph 30 minutes timer with jumping function in central Zero rotors the separated parts:323 pieces The forth subordinate to Royal Oak serious,launched in 2004 , adopting Cal.2899 movement and possesses tourbillion, chronograph, 10 days power reserve and 24 hours count backwards power reserve instruction . The reference number is 25969PT.OO.1105PT.01,diameter is 46mm. The dial was decorated by part of skeleton guilloche, two barrels at 6 and 12 o’clock to be seen, the chronograph second at 3 o’clock, tourbillion at 9 o’clock. 1hour hand 2 minute hand 3 chronograph hour hand 4 30minute counter 5 10 days power reserve display 6 last day (24hour)power reserve display Cal.28943 movement technical data TOTAL THICKNESS:8.15mm TATAL DIAMETER: 34.60mm x 30.40mm not equip with bezel diameter:33.80mm Frequency of balance wheel:3 (21600Alternances/hour) Hz numbers of ruby:37 The highest power reserve: 10 days Manual winding KIF ELASTOR shock resistance system Philips spring Screw balance Columnar wheel chronograph 30 chronographs the separated parts:332 pieces Nickel alloy board ARCAP Alloy Bridge Titanium connecting rod middle wheel and drive gear palladium barrel and jewel Tourbillion Bridge is made of yellow k gold. The fifth piece belongs to Millenary serious,launched in 2006. It adopts Cal.2899 movement and possesses patent AP escapement, linear type perpetual calendar and jumping second device. The reference number is 26066PT.OO.D028CR.01,47mm in diameter. AP created the way of date display as a pioneer:Eccentric type sub-dial marked 1-31 in the red Arabic numerals date dial. Month and week arranged for the same normal axis. The index from 12 to 1 is leap year display window. This unique perpetual calendar is clear to read and simple to use. As long as flip the watch straps, the date can be regulated. The retractable finger design can reverse time and avoid affecting the continual operation of perpetual calendar, protect the movement for mistaken operation. The sub-dial is another innovation at 7 o’clock to AP: Independent sub-dial jumps a grip per second, which is a great achievement of micro mechanical technique to shrink the size to the wrist watch in this device. The genuine revolution of the fifth piece of AP Tradition of Excellence bring about the merits of non- lubrication, separated escapement, direct transmission, high efficiency, excellent shock-resistant and stable performance, precision, etc. Soul of the fifth movement Cal. 2899 – balance, balance spring —different as others, adopted design of two hairsprings which offset at 180° to each other provide a better balance and a better regulation. In case the spring out of balance, it can adjust itself to balance. In this regard, AP moved a step forward in the way to pursue the highest mechanical precision. The tradition of creation and development The function of the escapement is to maintain the wrist watch heart (balance-spring) in regular operation, is a major part of movement. So the watchmakers do their utmost to improve escapement. One of main objective is to reduce the operating energy loss to minimum. And maintain the optimum operation status when the system suffer from striking and move in position. Before Swiss lever escapement became to the global manufacturer mainstream, a lot of talented watchmaker made an attempt to invent escapements run by different principles, such as crown-wheel escapement, dead-beat escapement from Graham, detent escapement from Leroy, escapement from MUDGE and so on. In 1791,Robert robin who employed by the emperor(1742-1799)came up with a new invention, that is a combination of detent pawl escapement (high efficiency) and lever escapement (stable to operate). Owing to the fragile geometric construction, Robin’s invention was not use in widespread. The manufacturing progress is not only complicated but also harsh to the requirement of form precision. It is impossible to the technique in 18 century. The advantages of the innovated escapement system AP new escapement originated from the improved design of Robin. It maintained precise even suffered from strong striking. To solve the shock-resistant, AP watch maker designed a new type guard-pin, it can prevent the system from slipping in the operation. Compared to the traditional Swiss lever escapement, there are lots of advantages technical specifications to the originate escapement in AP watch manufacturer all around the world. 1. Lubrication free-AP exclusive escapement with unique geometric structure can reduce the trouble in applying oil to lubricate. It will simplify maintenance work and avoid blocking mechanical device after the lubrication evaporation. 2. Single impulse escapement- only one impulsion corresponds to two vibrations, so can reduce operation disturbance and improve efficiency. 3. direct impulsion-the power in escapement covert to balance directly instead of passing through lever pallets. So it will reduce energy loss. 4. High efficiency-traditional Swiss lever escapement consumed 70% energy itself. AP exclusive escapement only cost 50% energy. So the efficiency is higher than traditional movement. 5. Excellent shock-resistance-every shape of parts was designed elaborately, the precise cutting technique ensured the components will not shift by the strenuous vibration. 6. The optimum performance is stable-it is been verified that AP escapement is reliable after five years of long-term test. Cal.2899 movement technical data TOTAL THICKNESS:9.15mm TATAL DIAMETER: 32.90mm x 37.90mm not equip with bezel diameter:32 x 37mm Frequency of balance wheel:3 (21600Alternances/hour) Hz numbers of ruby:42 The highest power reserve: 7 days Manual winding AP pallet system without lubrication KIF ELASTOR shock resistance system Weight balance Columnar wheel chronograph watch Frequency of balance wheel:3 (21600Alternances/hour)Hz numbers of ruby:37 The highest power reserve: 10 days KIF ELASTOR shock resistance system Double spring the separated parts:410 pieces
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