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  1. In-house 30110 (5): ETA 28920 30710 (5): ETA 2892 GMT 33110 (5): ETA 2892 50900 (9): In-house automatic tourbillon 7-days 51010 (8): In-house automatic 7-days 51110 (8): In-house automatic 7-days 79091 (8): ETA/Valjoux 7760 Grand Complication 79230 (6): ETA/Valjoux 7750 Split-second 79240 (5): ETA/Valjoux 7750 79261 (6): ETA/Valjoux 7750 79320 (5): ETA/Valjoux 7750 79350 (5): ETA/Valjoux 7750 79470 (6): ETA/Valjoux 7750 Split minute 80110 (6): In-house. Automatic 95290 (8): In-house minute repeater manuelt 95611 (8): In-house perpetual calendar 7-days automatic 98290 (7): In-house. FA. Jones manuelt baseret på lommeursværket IWC cal. 982 887 (7): JLC 889/2. Benyttes ikke længere
  2. In the 1980s, the darkest time of Swiss watch industry, the quartz watch shocked the whole word, especially the Swiss watch industry. The appearance of Japanese quartz clocks and watches made people realize that the accuracy of quartz watches is unmatched by traditional mechanical watches. Omega was an “omnipotent” watch factory at that time, they produced movements on their own, and published 1000 series movements to replace the old 500 series movement in 1980s. But honestly speaking, the public praise of 1000s movements is not so well, and it’s widely believed that the old 500s movements (such as 564 and 565) are better than 1000s. Even in the watch collection market the price of the old Omega watches equipped with 500s movement are higher than others, the Omega’s 564 and 565 movements are really valuable. The 1000s movement is actually the basic movement, it can be made into self-winding movement, automatic calendar or automatic double calendar. As long as putting the movement into related components, the watch will has corresponding functions. The 1030 movement is a self-winding movement. The bottom plate can be only covered by a piece of cover plate because the automatic components of the movement were dismantled and result in the large blank of the bottom plate. A nickname of this movement at that time is “Half movement”. Under the shock of Japanese quartz watches, Omega almost closed down at that time. Fortunately, the Swiss government helped Omega to survive from this battle. The cost of the production of a movement is very high, so the price of a mechanical watch is high. From then on, Omega has no longer produced in-house movement and became using the ETA movement, so the 1010, 1020, 1030 movements are the last batch of self-produced movements of Omega in the last century. Now, many Omega watches are equipped with 1120 movements, the current 1120 movement is completely not the old 1020 movement although their numbers are similar. But there are still some characteristics of modified 1000s movement. Firstly, the thinner movement has the automatic plate and the wheel plate at the same height and the auto components are not put on the wheel plate. It is also bidirectional automatic winding movement with only a auto guide wheel and a fast barrel, its kind like the auto structure of ETA2892 movement without the ball earings on the tourbillon shaft. The drive ratio of the center wheel is only 1:4. (general watches are 1:7) The vibration frequency of the balance is 4HZ, the diameter of the beryllium alloy balance is very small and the plate is traditional rose gold plated. But many inside movement components are plastic, including the calendar plate, second stop device and the wheel toggle of the calendar dial, which are not very durable and the plastic second device is directly touching the escapement wheel gear. And besides that i found that some auto tourbillions of the Omega 1000s movement are made from steel. Tourbillon materials are multifarious, but basically choose the heavy metal, such as the tungsten, lead brass and K gold. The quality of auto tourbillon is always on the edge as far as possible. therefore, in the middle part of the tourbillon are thinner, many also has milling grooves to increase cantilever effect. This is mainly to improve the seismic performance and protect the auto tourbillon shaft. The use of steel material on the auto tourbillon is relatively rare, the tourbillon of some Omega 1000s movement has corrosion phenomenon. Maybe Omega choosing steel as the material is because steel is not heavy metal but with high intensity and good flexibility. I think using steel will affect the antimagnetic performance because steel is hard magnetic material. Omega 1000s movement is with 17 jewels, which is a bit less as a automatic watch. But all the auto plats are inlaid with beryllium alloy settings, which is also abrasion resistant. This movement has a problem, which is that the shock absorber on the plate can fall off easily, so you need to be careful when you do maintenance and adjust the accuracy.
  3. ETA, a movement has occupied more than half of total output for world movements, with over a hundred million production each year, and being the movement supplier of Tissot , Omega and many other famous watch brands, you may know better about quite an amount of Swiss brands only if you know the ETA history well. 1793, at Swiss Fontainemelon, a new watch factory was founded, and that was the beginning of ETA history. In 1855, another factory specialized in making Ebauches also called as the factory of “Blank movement”, just right this factory changed its name as ETA at a later time. In 1926, Swiss already had a couple of noted movement factories capable to producing blank movements of the time, these factories jointly cooperated so to establish a joint-stock company of manufacturing blank movement – the Ebauches SA. In 1983, one of the biggest manufacturers at that time -- “Swatch Group”, SMH was founded and take over older Ebauches SA as its own camp, later renamed it as ETA SA Fabriquesd Ebauches, today’s ETA is the movement giant in Swatch Group. More than 9,000 employees now ETA having, and attained production of hundred million per year early in 1996, has assembling and manufacturing company in Swiss, France, German, Thailand, Malaysia and China. If we say Breguet, Glashutte Original, Omega, Jaquet Droz are the leading brands of Swatch Group, supporting the whole operation of this Group, then ETA is the real foundation stone of the entire Swatch company, mainly responsibilities of ETA in this group including: 1. Make sure a stable growing on development technology of these Swiss watches 2. Remain massive production of components, movement and complete watch based on keeping exploiting cheap materials 3. Get a good command of watch and production machinery technologies 4. Assemble movement and watches in batches From the obligations, we can see ETA is not simply in charge of development and research of movement itself, but more in responsible for designs and development of its own manufacturing devices. From conception, design, development, testing, batch producing to quality control, ETA well managed the whole process in an orderly manner. 7750 From the complete history of ETA, there had emerged many great movements, ETA 7750 once had the name of Valjoux 7750 which was the most famous movement made by Valjoux company, later been purchased by ETA, this classic Valjoux 7750 naturally was given by a new name of ETA7750 Invented in 1974, Valjoux initially only had 17J later upgraded to 25J, since been purchased by ETA, until nowadays, people are already quite used to call it as ETA, unless movement produced before the time when the company was finally purchased are still using the old name of Valjoux. Debuted on July 1st, 1974, ETA 7750 has always been the self-proud movement among all ETA lineup, mainly used on automatic winding or complicated watches. Standard 7750 have 17 jewels, 42 power reserve, 28,800 vph, uni-directional winding, analog time adjusting device with indices for fine time adjustment just like eccentric screws. However some don’t buy any good word I say, maybe simply speaking from the design craftsmanship, 7750 may seem normal, but please remember one most essential rule: simple somehow turns out to be the most durable one while durability is what we need. ETA 7750 is such a movement. ETA 7750 is an uni-directional movement, I don’t know why it still keeps this design and transform it as bil-direction. I remember some friends had discussed in this regard before, the conclusion they draw is: one way winding is more efficient than two, in fact, I still don’t get it so far, but in reality, we all know 7750 is not a winding efficient movement, in my own opinion, properly making some updates is good anyway. ETA 7750 chronograph structure is simple and easy to maintain, in aesthetic, can’t catch up with Lange 1001, but in function, is indeed one of the best structures. We should thanks to the appearance of 7750, because of it, we can have many great chronograph watches made by different brands, save us a lot or save the watch makers a lot cash trying to create a new movement for its place. Besides, you may all understand a truth: even though any watch company willing to throw a plurality of money for developing a new movement, the result is unknown, can the new workout exceed the already existed meanwhile good functioning 7750? So in this regard, by using off the peg movement is a smart choice. How to identify 7750 movement from first sight? 6, 9, 12 located a subdial 99% is ETA 7750, but don’t be surprise if you see the subdial doesn’t locate at these places cause 7750 is a transformer, it can be anywhere on dial. Its strengths are reflected at its durability but more embodied at its uncertain placement. From two subdial, three subdial to four subdial, all can be a variation from 7750. 2892 We usually can see question like this, what is the best automatic movement? The answer varies a lot, but two gets obvious higher votes, Rolex Cal.3135 and ETA 2892. Can’t deny strengths and stability of Rolex Cal.3135, but how about shrinking rolex 3135 as the same size as ETA 2892, which one is better? In this case, I guess ETA 2892 will win out without doubt. Be used by many luxury brands, like IWC, OMEGA, LONGINES. Aquatimer diver of IWC is using ETA 2892 based movement. Iwc made a series of changes, polishing of plate, altered size of balance wheel, exchanged hairspring and made it passed COSC. In fact, though not adding the extra process of polishing, depending on quality of ETA 2892 itself, plus a minor adjustment through average regulator, it will pass COSC. It’s quite often used by middle ranged brands in their advanced models, especially Chronometer, even worldwide popular brands are using it in their watches just specially pay attention on polishing and engraving, or merely exchange K gold or white gold rotor on. Meanwhile, 2892 is recognized as one of the most excellent and stable movements among all ETAs, annular balance wheel, 21J, bi-directional winding, 28,800 vph, eccentric fine adjustment for more accurate adjustment. Very good quality 2892 itself, only slight changes can make it turn into a very reliable movement, even Omega co-axial escapement watch is based on 2892 by adding some new features to form a new movement 1120. But 2892 still have its weakness, and that is the winding problem and being the inherent problem which can be adjusted through some updates, like, Omega Cal. 1120 changed three screws on rotor to eccentric fasten, changed shape of rotor making its center move downward. 2824 Watch beginner most likely get in touch with this movement firstly, we know the very first movements is either ETA 2824 or 7S26, 2824 is not only stable, high accurate but also manual winding, so price naturally is higher than Japanese movement. ETA 2824 along with ETA 2892 and ETA 7750 are all categorized as three great treasures in ETAs, but 2824 pricing a much lower price range, so many fakes are adopted this movement, which results in people so long as heard 2824 will rise a inimical emotion and neglect their good natures. If 2892 is positioned in high class people, then 2824 is the favorite of all middle and lower consumer groups. Thicker than 2892, 2824 is easier winding, three fasten screws changed over to single screws, by doing this, just happen to compensate the weakness of insufficient winding. 2892 and 2824 already takes more than half the position of automatic movement, ETA gains a decisive opportunity and profits than any other in-house movements. By carefully comparing these two movement structure, 2892 features a simper and cleaner structure, smart motion of ETA is – simplify any unnecessary parts so to lower the cost aiming at pricing a relatively lower final sale price in sake of benefiting consumers. Advanced 2824 compared with 2892 almost functions same in many aspects, so performance of advanced 2824 we can say somehow is great. Due to massive production, more or less will have some flaws in details, but the price range is somehow located at middle or low range. So watch fans are inclined to support for this movement.
  4. I'm just wondering what's the differences between these two movements? which one is better?
  5. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mV0jf1FUJI4 The P.3000 calibre, created entirely at the Panerai Manufacture, presents the main characteristics of the Panerai movements in terms of structure and robustness, accuracy and power reserve. The diameter of the calibre is 16? lignes, a substantial size which traces its origins from that of the movements which were fitted to the historic Panerai models. The calibre is immediately recognisable by its construction, which is similar to that of a three-quarter plate movement: a large bridge, next to another smaller one, covers the majority of the mechanical parts, and is fixed to the bottom plate by a series of screws of substantial thickness, thus forming a particularly rigid structure. The movement has 21 jewels and it uses two spring barrels connected in series. Such an arrangement enables long, thin springs to be used, which ensure the delivery of a more even force over a longer period of time, with a power reserve of 3 days. The balance wheel is notably large (13.2 mm) and it is the variable inertia type, with four adjusting screws arranged externally round the ring, so that the rate can be regulated without the need to remove the whole assembly. Held by a bridge with twin supports – a fixing much safer and more stable compared to the cantilevered single bridge – the balance wheel oscillates at a frequency of 3 Hz, equivalent to 21,600 alternations per hour. It is fitted with an Incabloc? anti-shock device and is free-sprung, so there is no regulating lever. With brush-finished bridges and chamfered edges – that is, with the edges smoothed and polished – the P.3000 calibre is also fitted with a device for the rapid adjustment of the time: a star wheel with 12 points and a small spring clutch enable the hour hand to be moved one hour at a time, without interfering with the movement of the minute hand or the operation of the watch. Functions • Hours, minutes Technical Specifications • Hand-wound mechanical movement • 16 ½ lignes • 5.3 mm thick • 21 jewels • Glucydur® balance • 21,600 alternations/hour • Incabloc® anti-shock device • Power reserve 3 days • Two barrels • 160 components article copied from Panerai site, let's keep learning something new each day. ^_^
  6. I have been wondering whether should I write an article about Rolex which is being an awkward brand the same time, especially when involved in movement, the reason why I say awkward is because it after all is not a manufacturer specialized in producing movement, but I can’t resist the impulse to write something, while this impulse mainly come from three widespread sayings: 1. If only one wristwatch is allowed to purchase in whole lifetime, then it must be Rolex 2. If accuracy of Rolex movement only take second place in list, then no one dare to say they are the top one 3. Whether Rolex will develop complicated watch movement, is not just a topic watch fan care about, but also the breaking news for many top watch brands Have always been discussing about this brand with my friends, among these world famous watch brands, two brands worthy of mentioning most are PATEKPHILIPPE and ROLEX. The former one is recognized as the king in watch world, while value retention of later will definitely not fall behind the watch king. 700,000 pieces per year are provided around world market, but to my surprise, there are 700,000 amount of production, all of them can be sold out, like the hot sale model Daytona the situation reached up a higher level even though you would like to pay much higher the price for one but couldn’t find a piece available, which is definitely never happened in watch history. So in the regard, I guess even the watch king PATEK PHILIPPE will be jealous about. We usually make jokes: no matter people who are conversant with watch or not, Rolex has always been their first choice. That just makes me wondering: it’s just a simply wristwatch and can have such great sale record and keep this score for years, then it surely has superiorities that other brands don’t have. Then what are the advantages? The answer is quite simple- movement So today we will focus on Rolex movement, other information about Rolex please find anywhere to read about. Just like the beginning of this article, biggest advantage of Rolex making it keep prosperous to date is the stable, accurate and durable movement. Therefore, we are truly in dire need of taking a good at where are exactly the advantages of Rolex movement. Winding system: Occasionally read about the words regarding Rolex being the first movement factory to invent automatic winding system. I would say there must be some mistakes. As a matter of fact, truly first automatic movement like we seeing around today’s automatic movement is made by Harwood, while what Rolex did is just bought this already ripe automatic winding system. I have to admit Rolex indeed has the foresight in purchase. Funny thing is when the whole world was busy about developing their own automatic winding system whereas Rolex was focused attention on its own Oyster water-resistant case. So we can have the chance to see nowadays most famous two words on Rolex case “Perpetual” and “Oyster”. It is really not special for Rolex. While real winding advantage revealed in 1955 Rolex patent- red wheel system. Anyone who had experience of disassembling modern Rolex movement would see two special red wheels in movement, which is Rolex’s self-proudly patent- something metal material like aluminum alloy, surface coated on a special red coating. Whole winding system comprised of 7 components, rather easy to assemble and maintain. This bi-directional winding structure makes sure its normal functioning even when movement is out of repair for years or lack of regular oiled, that is why Rolex power reserve is longer meanwhile is also the reason why Rolex watch can drive the watch function with less movement. Super balance wheel: Balance wheel of Rolex is quite particular as well as its winding system - unique four balance arms and four tiny screws. Four balance arms have better stability than two, certainly, it requires higher standard for the machine that produces the wheel, good thing is Rolex did not hesitate to do that even with higher cost. Used Breguet hairspring on wheel, we all know, at nowadays, movement with Breguet hairspring can be counted as advanced movement already. It’s worth of noting that the four screws on inner surface of the wheel, this is the best useful weapon for fine adjustment. By adjusting one click to increase or decrease one second per day, that is what we hope to see. While only Rolex provide such balance wheel for us to adjust accuracy, speaking of accuracy, Rolex really makes us all dumbfounded. Remember once a watch fan did such an experiment: two Rolex Submariner are adjusted at exactly the same time, same hour, minute and second, then leave it on surface for 24 hours, guess what they have found? These two submariners were unexpectedly running the same time same hour, minute and second after 24 hours, what’s a miracle!!! Balance bridge: Maybe less people have noticed that original unilaterally contiguous bridge have utterly changed over to the bilaterally contiguous bridge since Cal.3130, do not belittle this subtle modification, for such wispy machinery like watch movement, very tiny vibration may cause big discrepancy. Note: before Audermas Piaget released Cal.3090 and Cal.3120, I guess Rolex is the only brand has such balance bridge. Instant date change: Early in 1945, Rolex has developed first wristwatch with date window for date display, and Cal.1560 released in 1960 equipped with its newly developed instant date change structure at 12 o’clock, while not all current date change was using this instant date change structure, in old date change pattern almost about 9pm, date wheel starts slow rotation, while result led by this is: around 11pm, due to date wheel happens to turn middle of two days, wearer can’t clearly read the current date. While instant date change just well solved this problem. By making full use of eccentric wheel and a drilled flat jewel realized date instant change at 12pm, so perfectly completed day’s alternation. Mainly wristwatches today provide instant date change function, but seem to have one common issue: if manually adjusting date between 9pm to 3am will cause date change inaccuracy. Fortunately, Rolex don’t have such problem, I have adjusted date during this time period on purpose and found no problem at all, this Rolex watch just went through date change still can correctly display date at second day. After getting known some advantages of Rolex movement, let see some famous movements in Rolex history. Cal.1030 Automatic winding Diameter: 28.5mm Height: 5.85mm Jewel No.: 25 Compensation balance Frequency: 18800vph Adjusted to five positions This is the quite older Rolex movement in Rolex history. Cal.1030 produced in 1950 is the first bi-directional automatic winding movement made by Rolex at that time. Adjusted to five positions, during that period without concept of COSC, adjusted to five positions is already somehow equal standard with COSC. Worthy of mentioning that before Cal.1030, there is another Rolex movement Cal.1000, but info. or record even can’t be found at Rolex’s database. Just like Cal.1000, Cal.1030 was the most popular 18000vph movement at the time as well as use of mono-metallic compensation balance and blue steel Breguet overcoil hairspring. Cal.1030 also features an unique rotor which is totally different with today’s, two prongs are hollowed on semi-circle, around the outer race engraved with word of “ROLEXPERPETUAL”, beneath is the word of “PATENTED” and the iconic patter of Rolex crown. By removing the rotor and upper plate, two big ratchet wheels are revealed, above Balance Bridge, is the noticeable regulator for adjustment. Most noted Rolex model equipped with this movement is Oyster Perpetual model Ref.6564 launched in 1956. Cal.1556 Automatic winding movement Diameter: 28.5mm Height: 7.0mm Jewel NO.: 26 Frequency: 19800vph Adjusted to five positions COSC standard Compared to Rolex Cal.3130, maybe the most famous Rolex movement should be Cal.1556. In 1965, Rolex launched this movement and immediately became the main ace of all Rolex movements, and installed in most expensive watch at the time - men’s gold Oyster. Cal. 1556 continues to use Rolex self-proudly bi-directional winding mechanism, meanwhile improved frequency from previously 18000vph to 19800vph, increased week and date configuration, also assembled red wheels, compensation balance, four balance arms and screws. Biggest distinction compared with previous Cal.1030 in appearance is the shape of rotor- rotor from Cal.1556 is already very close to our today’s Rolex rotor, also adjusted to 5 positions. Cal.3130 Automatic winding movement Diameter: 28.1mm Height: 6.3mm Jewel No.: 31 Frequency: 28800vph Adjusted to five postions COSC standard I have heard questions asked by my friends, what on earth is the difference among today’s AirKing, DayJust, Day-Date, GMT-Master and Submariner? I wanna say actually the biggest difference is not on movement. Cause in case of present Cal.31 series movement, Cal.3130 no doubt offers a best development platform, by adding date function so to form a new movement of Cal.3135, by adding date and week so to form the Cal.3185, and increasing a GMT function is the current Cal.3185, these transformed movements have made up the current strongest Rolex movement lineup. Officially released in 2001, Cal. 3130 is the main force of modern Rolex movements, having most basic function of hour, minute and second is powered by the 31J movement, on Cal.3130, Rolex applies with most advanced balance wheel with new four balance arms and screws, along with a Breguet overcoil hairspring that is secured by a full balance bridge, all these features prompt Cal.3130 to be the world most accurate and durable basic three-hand movement. Also many people said Cal.3130 is not the best, cause Cal.3130 installed in AirKing even didn’t pass through COSC, but for more cautious people will find that apart from AirKing, others like Explorer I Ref.114270 also having this movement installed, moreover, on this watch you can see big words of “superlative chronometer officially certified” on dial, therefore, problem solved: Cal.3130 is assuredly qualified by COSC. Meanwhile, Cal.3130 is full of extensibility and re-development ability. Thus we can find aside from the chronograph Daytona and artistic series Cellin, all Rolex series are applied with Cal.3130 or movement developed based on Cal.3130. Cal.4130 Automatic winding movement Diameter: 30.5mm Height: 6.5mm Jewel No.: 44 Frequency: 28800vph Adjusted to five positions COSC standard Chronograph watch can be called as the most complicated models in Rolex, however, special designed Cal.4130 undisputedly become the new most complex movement in all Rolex family. Speaking of the launch of Cal.4130, the story might be a little admirable: entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex really gives all watchmakers a great shock- so powerful self-produced chronograph movement, without any flaws found. Launched the same year with Cal.3130, Cal.4130 was planned originally by Rolex to replace Cal.4030 movement. New Cal.4130 keeps all strengths of olders, in addition, reinforces the device structure regarding chronograph. Calibre 4130’s performance stems particularly from the use of a vertical – instead of lateral – clutch to activate the chronograph. This new solution functions on the principle of two discs, one above the other, which work together by direct friction contact and offer significant advantages – extremely precise starting and stopping of the perfectly smooth running chronograph seconds hand as soon as the pusher is pressed; and the capacity of the chronograph to function for long periods of time with no negative impact on the precision of the watch. Cal.650/Cal.651 Manually winding movement Diameter: 20.8mm Height: 1.75mm Jewel NO.: 18 Frequency: 18000vph (Cal.650)/21600vph (Cal.651) Adjusted to five positions Folks always dwell upon dimension of Rolex with great relish. No matter the early Cal.1030, Cal.1556, or today’s Cal.3130, Cal.4130, you can invariably find the trace of some Rolex movement which are installed in Rolex artistic series – the Cellini, and also takes a significant spot being the only existed ultrathin movement in Rolex product line, while Cal.650/Cal.651 is one of these members. Developed in 1960, with thickness of 1.75mm, Cal.650 resembles with Cal.21 of Frederic Piguet, a manually winding movement with 18j. Compensation balance wheel, blue steel Breguet overcoil hairspring, 18800vph low frequency, the later upgraded version of Cal.651, has made a new improvement to adjust to five positions, though had not sent to COSC use, but as a matter of fact, it does can meet up with the standard of COSC. Same dimension between these two, but frequency changed over to 21600vph, and Cal.651 movement majorly are installed the ultrathin Midas series which is no longer in production by these days, certainly, there still a small amount of them are installed in average Cellini watches. Cal.1601 Manually winding movement Diameter: 20.8mm Height: 2.3mm Jewel NO.: 19 Frequency: 19800vph Adjusted to four positions Cal.1601 is similarly the entirely developed and manufactured ultrathin movement by Rolex, also installed in the artistic Cellini series. Cal.1601 is the upgrade edition of Cal.1600, produced about around 1970, compared with Cal.1600, 1601 offering frequency of 19800vph and a moveable hairspring stud holder, 19J, and the others almost same as 1600. Practically, reform and renewal speed of Rolex ultrathin movement is much slower than other Rolex movements, like today’s most Cellini watches are still using manually winding movement which are considered lack of modern sense. But just like Cal.1601, self-develop and produced ultrathin movement born durable, never heard of someone said its inherent defects, so such movement can easily survive for at least 50 years in near future.
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