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Found 19 results

  1. EdgyGuyJide

    Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000

    Have you ever been waiting for a new Rolex Sea-Dweller? Recently Rolex launched a new series of new watches, there are well-known professional diving watch Sea-Dweller to the new version. The new model is 116600, the 2014 Sea-Dweller-style appearance is very close to the old Sea-Dweller to make 16600 (which cut off in 2008). The Sea-Dweller-style watch was first introduced in 1967, was designed to meet the needs of saturated diving and reSea-Dwellerrch and development. As a result of the active participation of the US Navy (through the Sea-DwellerLAB II program) and the Comex diver of France, Rolex designed this watch that could withstand extreme pressure in a saturated dive and had a helium valve. As a 'tool watch' model, Rolex Sea-Dweller has become a legend of the diving watch, this new course will not break the existing paradigm of success. 116600 case is still 40mm size, 904L stainless steel, no magnifying glass date display, 4000 feet waterproof (1220 M), the improvement lies in the CERACHROM bezel and Gildelock clasp (can extend the length of 26 mm bracelet). In many ways, the new Rolex Sea-Dweller makes the type 4000 similar to the Rolex Shui Gui. Sea-Dweller to make water-resistant 1220 meters, compared to 300 meters waterproof water ghost, with thick case and table mirror. While most people who do not really dive so deep, but Rolex always builds its own dive table for the most extreme conditions. Having said that, from the point of view of pure aesthetic, the Rolex Sea-Dweller type has a great advantage over the Rolex's submerged calendar, that is, you can have a magnifying glass's calendar window. Sea-Dweller made 4000 watch used by the movement, is the same as the 116610 Submariner calendar (water ghost) the same Rolex 3135 movement. This movement has 48 hours of power reserve, with Parachrom gossamer and certified by COSC. Sea-Dweller-type with extreme waterproof performance, the main source lies in its case and sapphire crystal than the water ghost thick The Sea-Dweller-style waterproofing ability is just between the 1000-foot-depth and deep-Sea-Dweller (DeepSea-Dweller) de12800 feet deep, just to make up the gap between the two areas, suitable for a certain part of the crowd. Technically speaking, helium valve (HEV) is a landmark feature of the Sea-Dweller, still in the case of 9 o'clock position to find it. Tiny helium molecules in the process of saturated diving will penetrate the watch, the divers floating process will expand the helium caused by increased pressure inside the table may damage the watch. The helium valve (HEV) expels the expansion gas from the housing, thereby protecting the watch from damage to the overall water resistance. Rolex once again guaranteed that this beautiful luxury can accompany you to travel across the Sea-Dweller to catch turtle. Adjustable insurance buckle strap The Oyster strap is equipped with an oyster-type buckle that prevents the buckle from opening unexpectedly, as well as a double stretch system, even wearing a diving suit with a thickness of 7 mm. Oyster-style folding chain extension can extend the strap extension of 26 mm, Rolex Glidelock buckle can be the band to each step 2 mm gradually extended, up to about 20 mm, this fine-tuning function is quite convenient There will not be more than a loose, less a tight feeling. Neither need to use other tools to assist.
  2. Blink of an eye, this year's May is almost half, the summer so come, fitness men and women began to blatantly in the beach, the street, the gym show body, show muscle, of course, the body of sports equipment is also hanging in the circle of friends waiting Point of praise, a good sporting table for their fitness lottery a lot of difference with the belt of the suits of the table carefully care type, sports table can accompany people for a long time, not afraid of perspiration of the wet, not afraid of bumps, said white That is able to perseverance Khan up! In the selection of watches, the need to pick a durable, accurate, excellent waterproof performance of the watch, then, how to choose the sports table, the following is for me to collect three points as a friend circle won the necessary skills. 1. waterproof watch to see the size of the first look (Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 both time schedules) Standing in the fashion cutting-edge, or is entering the fashion tip of the small partners who know that the past two years, a little return to the small size of the caliber of the trend, but I want to say is that the movement is still popular large size, this is not difficult to understand, You think ah, you off almost that a few pieces, and sweat in the gym to do their own, how the atmosphere, the sun's stature in the mind delineated numerous times, large-scale sports table can be followed On your feel, clear reading, eye-catching, such as this year's Royster Oyster table to increase the size, launched 39 mm new, so the table is still large size. Some people say that their wrist fine, fear Hold can not live, in fact, I said OK, is to open the visual effects of the new world. Moreover, from the market, large caliber watches to be higher than the size of the relatively small watches, such as Omega 36 mm hippocampus than the 41 mm hippocampus about 30% lower. 2. Selection of waterproof watch look at the bezel (Rolex Submariner 116610) The bezel is an important factor in determining the value of a sport watch, although it looks like it does not take up much of the appearance of the watch, but the insiders know that the bezel is an important determinant of the sport watch, , The ceramic ring 116610 price than the steel ring 16610 much higher, and this year's new Rolex also replaced the ceramic bezel. Why is the ceramic bezel good? Because it is hard material, wear, not easy to scratches, even if you wear a long time, then the word on the bezel is not easy to get rid of. While the steel ring in the performance, it is slightly worse than the ceramic ring. 3. Selection of waterproof watch last look at the style (Omega Seam Sea Ocean Diving Table) There are many kinds of classic sports watch, such as Patek Philippe's Nautilus, grenades, Audemars Piguet of the Royal Oak, Rolex Shui Gui, Omega hippocampus and so on. There is an important reason to support you to choose the classic style: most of the sports watch are steel table, in general, the value of steel table than the gold table is low, but other well-known style of sports steel table value higher than the gold table The So, you choose the classic style of sports table, the value of their own high, stored value is also strong, cost-effective, definitely worth starting. Such as Omega hippocampus, the new to Zhen 8500 coaxial movement, the warranty for up to 4 years, in terms of price than the Rolex's ghost, Blancpain's fifty good to a lot better. And Omega brand in the domestic visibility is very high, is a very good choice.
  3. DarthUp

    Top 5 Luxury Watch Brands

    For unquestioned quality and luxury, probably the most preferred brands of watches encompass a lengthy legacy of watch making, integrity, innovation, value, and style. Centuries ago, watchmakers required the thought of the time and miniaturized parts to produce the watch. Since that time, the posh watch has changed into symbolic of prestige and wealth. Today, costly, luxury watches are greater than a convenient timepiece, they're also sought after jewellery pieces that completely complement the posh experience with a brand new BMW vehicle. Take a look at BMW of Freehold's listing of probably the most popular brands. Franck Muller A family member newcomer towards the industry of luxury watchmaking, Franck Muller, nevertheless, produces a few of the world's recommended watches. Muller, who began out like a watch restorer, introduced his first watches in 1983. Dubbed the ?°watchmaking genius?± by many people of his peers, Muller is unparalleled in the creativeness and innovation. In 1992, he established their own company, Franck Muller Geneve within the village of Genthod near Geneva. In 1998, he produced what many regard because the most complicated watch on the planet. Patek Phillipe A household-owned company in Geneva, Europe, Patek Phillipe began in 1839 by two Polish immigrants, Antoni Patek and Franciszek Czapek. Noted for innovation and developing the most recent technology in watchmaking, Patek Phillipe has greater than 70 patents. A few of the inventions connect with movements yet others connect with cases, hands, dials, along with other elements within the exterior structure and search of the watch. Among Patek Phillipe's more notable introductions would be the perpetual calendar, minute repeater, split-seconds hands, and chronograph. Some the company's popular watches are Calatrava, Gondolo and Patek Phillipe's Ref. 5146. Audemars Piguet A Swiss watch manufacturing company since 1875, Audemars Piguet has lots of high-profile endorsers for example golfers Rory McIlroy and Darren Clarke and soccer player Leo Messi. Additionally, it produces special and special edition watches for athletes and celebrities. Among individuals include Shaquille O'Neal, Jay-Z, Quincy Johnson, and Arnold Schwarzenegger. A number of its popular selections include Royal Oak, Millenary, Jules Audemars, Promese, and Edward Piguet watches. Rolex Perhaps the renowned of luxury watch brands is Rolex, that has been symbolic of wealth, prestige, and gratifaction for over a century. All of Rolex's watches undergoes strict examination and testing. Headquartered in Geneva, Europe, Rolex depends on 4,000 watchmakers in over 100 countries and sells about 700,000 watches each year. The typical Rolex piece costs around $7,000 to $8,000, with a few costing around $40,000. A number of Rolex's top-selling watches range from the Rolex President Day-Date, Rolex Datejust, Rolex Submariner, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ocean Occupant 4000 Men's Watch, and Rolex Yacht-Master Men's Watch 16622. Vacheron Constantin Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin may be the earliest watch manufacturer on the planet. Located in Geneva, Europe, the organization is a luxury popular with a slew of celebrities and dignitaries. Among individuals who owned a Vacheron Constantin watch are Harry Truman, the Duke of Windsor, and Napoleon Bonaparte. Among its more notable watches would be the Patrimony: Power Reserve, L'ensemble des Essentelles: Ladies 1972, and Malte: Perpetual Calendar Chronograph.
  4. EdgyGuyJide

    I want to buy a Rolex!

    The Rolex Brand is my favorite Watch brand! Rolex, a legendary watch brand, accurate and durable reputation of the industry, I have heard such a word, the world's most understandable table and most people do not understand the table will buy Rolex, which also indirectly illustrates the Rolex's success. Today's watch house will bring you Rolex brand history comb, from the watch series to the brand's major events. Rolex brand founder Hans Wilsdof (Hans Wilsdof) Rolex was founded in England by the German Hans Wilsdof in 1908, formerly known as Wilsdorf and Davis (W & D), a partnership with British Davis. Rolex is the famous Swiss brand, according to legend in the quartz storm period, the Swiss government shot to keep the two watch brands, one is Patek Philippe, another brand is Rolex. It is said that Rolex has a certain Swiss official background. Rolex's stake is held by the Wilsondorf Foundation, and the Welsdorf Foundation is the founder of the Rolex brand founder Hans Wilsdof, who founded his wife after his wife's death To ensure that the company remains independent, not to be acquired by competitors or become a public company. But it is said that the Swiss National Bank has a stake in the Stewart Foundation, but what is the specific situation we can not know. Rolex launched the first Oyster watch in 1926 Speaking of Rolex will have to mention is its unique Oyster watch, Oyster case in the history of contemporary watchmaking set an important milestone, Rolex was invented in 1926, mainly using screw-in outer ring, bottom cover And the middle case of the crown, greatly increased the watch in the waterproof above the ability. Today, the minimum waterproof standard Oyster watch is 100 meters, only authorized Rolex watchmakers can only with a specific tool assembly movement. 1927 Messi Si Gilles wearing a Rolex Oyster watch across the English Channel To prove the waterproof performance of the watch, must be able to provide evidence. In 1927, the young British lady Mercedes Gleitze (Mercedes Gleitze) wearing Rolex Oyster watch successfully cross the British Strait. After swimming for more than ten hours to reach the finish line, she wore the watch is still no harm, run as usual. Rolex launched in 1931 the first Oyster constant movement watch Rolex in 1931 launched its first Oyster constant-action watch, the biggest feature is that it is equipped with a constant swing pendulum, with the wearer's wrist activities in a two-way way around the central axis of natural swing, for the watch Sustained and stable source of power. This is the first watch can be two-way watch movement, the significance of self-evident. In 1945 Rolex launched the first log-type watch Log series watch is a very large series of Rolex watch, since the introduction of the first chapter in 1945 since the watch, on the concern, is one of the most classic series of Rolex, log-type watch is also the first The watch on the watch surface shows the date of the watch. In 1953 launched the Oyster Air Overlord watch In 1953, Rolex launched our well-known empty tyrants series of watches, Rolex's official information in the current has no air of the introduction, are replaced by Oyster constant-action series, so the empty Pa series will become history , Will only exist Oyster Hengshui series of watches. Oyster-style constant movement series watch is a series of Rolex, in all the series is the lowest price of a series, so would like to buy a Rolex entry-level watch that is certainly the purchase of Rolex Oyster constant movement series watch. In 1953 Rolex launched the first explorer watch In 1953 Rolex launched the first explorer-style watch, is designed for the adventurers to create the watch, which not only has the accuracy of precision timepieces, and in the harsh environment is still able to operate as usual. 1953 Rolex launched the first submarine watch 1953 Rolex launched the first submarine-type watch, the world's first waterproof depth of 100 meters of the watch, the same year the acquisition of patent three buckle crown, to strengthen the case of sealing, so that the depth of water to 300 meters. 1955 Rolex launched the first Greenwich watch In 1955 Rolex launched the first Greenwich watch, Rolex and Pan Am (Pan Am) jointly developed for its international route pilots, with dual time zone display function, the traveler, this feature is very useful. In 1956 Rolex launched the first week calendar watch In 1956 Rolex launched the first week calendar type watch, since 1956, has become a distinguished model Rolex watches, because all of its watch all the precious metal material to create, no steel watch. The week calendar type watch is the first calendar watch to show the week. In 1956 Rolex launched the first MILGAUSS watch In 1956 Rolex launched the first MILGAUSS watch, MILGAUSS watch is as a professional anti-magnetic watch and launched, resistant to 1000 Gaussian high-intensity magnetic, much by scientists and engineers love, its unique lightning second hand design Its unique highlights. Deep Sea Submarine in 1960 In 1960, the trial of the deep-sea submarine Trieste (Trieste) successfully sneaked into the Earth's deepest Mariana Trench (Mariana Trench). Navy captain Don Walsh, who was at the helm of the Trieste ride with Jacques Piccard, set the unprecedented deep sea adventure feat. Deep Sea Submarine and Rover Experimental Watch, which is tied to the submarine's outer hull, Deep Sea Special is back from the surface of the sea at 10,916 m (37,800 feet) In 1963 Rolex launched the first cosmic meter Dieton watch In 1963 Rolex launched the first cosmic meter Dieton watch, is every Le Mans and Rolex Daytona 24 hour endurance race winner. A tachometer with a calculated speed on the outer ring. Accurate timing and up to one eighth of a second. Driven by Rolex's outstanding 4130 chronograph movement. In 1967, Rolex launched the first sea-made watch In 1967, Rolex launched the first sea-style watch, is between the submersible and DEEPSEA products, waterproof performance is also very good, smaller than the size of DEEPSEA, the thickness of the two between the two. And DEEPSEA, calendar display window is no big blister design, watch the water depth of 1220 meters. Launched in 1971 the new Explorer II series watch For the face of serious challenges faced by professional explorers. Whether in-depth heart, or through the night of the North and South Poles, unique orange pointer to 24 hours, clear instructions day and night. Patent Parachrom gorgeous and Paraflex cushioning device to ensure that the watch is still in a severe environment is accurate. For the adventure and carefully designed, as long as the brave to explore, will be inseparable. In 1982 Rolex launched the latest Greenwich II watch In 1982, Rolex launched the latest Greenwich II watch, the Greenwich type by the Pan American Airlines pilots to support, as the aircraft on behalf of the Observatory watch. Classic dual time zone watch, equipped with arrow-shaped 24-hour pointer and progressive scale rotary outer ring. In 2005 the assembly of Cerachrom outer ring, extremely resistant to scratch, corrosion resistance, color and gloss lasting. For the close contact with the world, bring style fashion, the perfect way of navigation. 1985 using 904L stainless steel Rolex is the first choice of 904L stainless steel to build all the stainless steel case leader watch brand. This material is commonly used in high-tech, aerospace and chemical industry, its excellent anti-corrosion can be comparable with precious metals, retouching after showing a unique luster. In 1992 Rolex launched the first yacht Ming Shi watch In 1992 Rolex launched the first yacht Ming Shi watch, equipped with platinum or gold system of two-way rotating outer ring, accurate record of voyage time. Its unique dial, configure the big day mark and pointer, to ensure easy reading. To ensure that the water depth of 100 meters. Excellence in time, exposure to land and sea as reliable. In 2007 Rolex launched the new yacht Masters II watch Especially for the sailing competition designed chronograph watch. With a unique countdown function, with 10 minutes to 1 minute mechanical memory programming. Whatever the environment, it is still legible. Patent Ring Command Rotary outer ring for its characteristics, in addition to the ring with the watch movement linked. An unprecedented combination of sophisticated structure and simple operation. Rolex launched the first DEEPSEA watch in 2008 Rolex launched in 2008 the first DEEPSEA watch, ROLEX DEEPSEA watch compared to the sea to make the watch has a larger table diameter, more solid watch thickness. The watch also has the waterproofing effect of the model with a waterproof depth of 3900 meters. It is a craftsmanship of the exclusive Roger watch, equipped with patented Ringlock system, which includes a nitrogen alloy inner ring, light and indestructible. Can withstand more than 3 tons of force, and can reach 3,900 meters depth. , When the body in the environment, reliable and solid is essential, professional divers is highly respected. 2009 Rolex launched the new log II watch 2009 Rolex launched the new log II watch, compared to the biggest change in the watch is the watch diameter increases, the movement replaced the new shock, made the upgrade. 2012 Rolex launched the first SKY-DWELLER watch 2012 Rolex launched the first SKY-DWELLER watch, specifically for the global business travelers and the excellent watch. The red triangle indicates the time in place; the regular pointer indicates the time in the second time zone. Patent calendar device, equipped with Salon system, intelligent distinction between 31 days and 30 days Satsuki, precision and reliable, unparalleled. Ring Command Rotates the outer ring to ensure easy setting. Rolex's creativity is most vividly. Came out with 14 exquisite patented technology. Rolex launched in 2014 the new series of Chilini watch The Chelini series is the form developed by Rolex in the 1960s. The name comes from Beneweduo Chelini, who is the representative of the Italian sculptor of the second half of the sixteenth century, art critic, and the styleist sculpture character. Former gold and silver craftsmen, after the influence of Michelangelo, began to produce large-scale sculpture. Chelini series is to promote the art of design concepts, research and development of a series.
  5. Currytom

    The Story of Diver's Watches

    Diver's watch has become more and more popular in the mechanical watch market these years because of the prevalent trend of sports and leisure, as well as the popularity of modern people's strong self-expression. Every summer, there are many articles about the introduction of diving watches in the newspapers, magazines and horological journals. Of course, people who wear diving watches may not be those who love diving authentically; and the watches that divers really wear into the water are probably mostly professional diving quartz watch with capabilities of calculating the depth of water, time of decompression and keeping a record of diving, rather than expensive mechanical watches. Nevertheless, diving mechanical watch has both masculine appearance and extraordinary taste which keep up with the fashionable trend, furthermore, it has excellent waterproof performance and its practicability enable itself suit for the suburban activities, bathing or even swimming occasions. There is no wonder that it can become a great option on the modern watch candidate list. The diver’s watch, as its name suggests, refers to the wristwatch which is accepted waterproofing process and only for the diver, but it doesn’t mean that it can be called diver’s watch for its powerful water resistance. Usually diver’s watch should have the following characteristics: 1, Waterproof performance must reach the depth of at least 200 meters. 2, There is the unidirectional rotating bezel for measuring the diving time. 3, Diver is usually under deep water, therefore, the hands and hour markers of diver’s watch are usually coated with luminous material to allow users to read time easily. 4, Strictly speaking, only the watch that meets the specifications, standards and tests made by ISO international organization can be called diver’s watch, and the control of such standards, of course, is for the safety of divers. However, owing to the market acceptance and popularity of diver’s watches, the high end mechanical watch factories which are not only selling for divers will compete to launch diving watches, and the watches does not necessarily meet the standards set by the professional organizations. Compared with the watches and pocket watches hundred years ago, the advancement of science and technology has brought much progress on the waterproof performance of modern watch. Today, most of the sports watches possess 100 meters of water resistance, and diver's watches generally have water resistance more than 200 or 300 meters. However, if we review the history of the watch's waterproof performance, we will find that the waterproof performance that we take it for granted today is hard-won sweet fruit after a long trip of developing, it is really worth being tasted bit by bit by watch fans. Therefore, we do not intend to introduce the new diver's watches by some articles like other media, and we just make a brief introduction of the history about the development of the diver's watch as well as share the happiness of understanding the present by reviewing the past with you. Since the advent of watch hundred years ago, water, dust, magnetism and shock are four enemies of watch. In the 1920s and 1930s, watch manufactures began to study the measures against these external forces intensively to increase the watch's durability and endurance. Although before the 1920s, there were a few watchmakers, such as Francis Baumgartner, Paul Perregaux and Georges Peret, they could produce the case with high quality which was well sealed, and thus it had good waterproof performance, then Omega and Longines adopted this case one after another. However, Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, was the first one who understood the potential of waterproof watches thoroughly, he made further devotion and indeed launched waterproof watches to public, and he won the popular acclaim. At present, the vast majority of watches experts have recognized the fact that Rolex and Omega are pioneers and promoters in studying waterproof performance of watches. Hans Wilsdorf continually improved the precision of the case, the adaptation of crystal face and crown system. In 1927, Mercedes Gleitzes swam across the English Channel wearing the Oyster watch of Rolex, and it took her 15 hours and 15 minutes, and Rolex became famous overnight by the reports from media and the advertisements. Durability, accuracy, water resistance, with incomparable athletic breath and the symbol of courage made the image of Rolex leave deep impression in people's mind. Marine was launched by Omega in 1932, and it was worn by the adventurer Charles William Beebe who was diving up to 10 meters under the water and setting the record at that time. Louis Cartier granted Pasha of Marrakesh's request to make a watch that could let him know the time when swimming. Cartier invented a kind of brand-new screw-in crown, and applied it to The Pasha launched in 1932. It could be said that it was the first luxury waterproof watch in the world. It is generally believed that mode of battle and the prevalence of military watches during the World War II is another reason to promote the rapid progress of diver's watch. The US Navy adopted Hamilton's Sea Bees Diving Watch at that moment, and its waterproof depth had been made up to 50 meters and its technology was mainly known as using twin-lock crown to strengthen its water resistance, and the Russian Navy also had similar military watch, the opposed countries like Germany and Italy adopted Officine Panerai which used its unique pressurized crown system to make the diving watches'effective working depth reach 30 meters. The scope of the use of these watches and the impact on the war was actually far less than other military watches in the same period, such as famous British WWW (waterproof wristwatch, its water resistance was at least 10 meters) or legendary Mark IX and Mark X, etc. As previously mentioned, Marine was launched by Omega in 1932 and it was worn by Beebe who was diving up to the depth of 10 meters, and Omega launched famous Seamaster in 1948. However, seriously speaking, Marine and Seamaster of that day, both of them could not be called real diver's watches. So far, most horological people have recognized the fact that diving watches came into ordinary people's real life should be started from 1954 when Rolex launched its revolutionary Submariner Ref. 6204. In 1956, Rolex launched Ref. 6538 which is now known as James Bond Submariner, and its waterproof depth could reach the standard of 200 meters (660 feet). During the postwar years, sports and adventure had prevailed in civil society, with the addition of the far-reaching promotion from media, the popularity of diving and sports watch had became unstoppable. After Rolex produced the world's first waterproof watch in 1926, it spared no effort to develop the diver's watches. In 1960, Rolex had ever produced a few diver's watches called Deep Sea Specials which were only for experiments, and hung it on the US navy ship which was called Trieste, and then the ship dived into the world's deepest trench - Mariana Trench which is amounted to the depth of 10,908 meters. After that, Rolex had laid the leading position in the field of diver's watch. In 1971, Rolex invented Sea-Dweller which possessed helium escape valve and its water resistance reached the depth of 2000 feet (600 meters). At the beginning of next year, M. Patrice Chemin and M. Robert Gauret worn this watch under the environment of helium and oxygen mixture and dived into the water of 2000 feet (600 meters) depth, furthermore, they continuously did that for 18 days and set the official world records. Blancpain declared that the time it launched 50 Fathoms was a few months earlier than the Submariner, that was the end of 1953. The performance of 50 Fathoms was indeed well-reputed. Famous diver Jacques Cousteau created successful grad wearing the diver's watch of Blancpain. (However, nowadays, people strongly believed that Submariner is the pioneer of diver's watch, it can not be changed only by the illumination of historical argument). After that Blancpain launched famous diver's watches called Aqualung and Bathyscaphe one after another. Otherwise, do not forget that Omega launched Seamaster 600 and Seamaster 1000 in 1970 and 1971 successively, and their waterproof depth reached the standards of 600 meters and 1000 meters respectively after it launched Seamaster 300(waterproof performance was only 200 meters) in 1957 and got great response. Leave the argument and confusion about who is the No.1 in history alone, we can fairly say that it was the efforts and innovation of these watch companies that created the vast world for the diver's watches and other sports watches jointly. Ten or twenty years later, except a few watch companies like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, etc, almost all of the Swiss big brands put into the production of diver's watches. For example, Eterna launched its famous Kon-Tiki in1955; in 1964 , IWC launched its first generation of Aquatimer, JLC launched its diver's watch Polaris which was equipped with alarm, and Vulcain launched Cricket-Nautical which was equipped with depth gauge. Even the top luxury watch brands Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe who took the wait-and-see attitude originally launched sports watches Royal Oak and Nautilus which were full of the breath of marine theme in 1972 respectively. It was a matter of course that these two watches were not really diver's watches, but both of them had reflected the charm and the trend of sports watch and diver's watch. The invention of helium escape valve is a very important milestone for the development of the diver's watch. General diving (also can be called scuba diving), the ingredients of the compressed air that divers take when they dive into the water are the same as the natural air, including 1/5 of the oxygen, and 4/5 of the nitrogen (N2). The nitrogen in the gas cylinder would integrate into the neurons under the high pressure and cause different levels of anesthetization. After having stayed in the water about 30 meters depth with its pressure for one hour, human's body would begin to produce so-called “nitrogen drunk” in paralysis. Whereas, if one is under the pressure of the water of 30 meters for more than one hour with using pure oxygen, it will also lead to the oxygen toxicity of human brain. Therefore, if divers have to stay in the water for a long time, they must replace nitrogen oxides with helium oxides, and according to the appropriate proportion to use helium-oxygen gas mixture when diving, which is called helium-oxygen diving. However, the volume of the helium molecule is very small, even several times smaller than the water molecules, so when using helium-oxygen gas mixture in diving, even though the water does not penetrate the watch, helium is also possible to enter the wristwatch under the high pressure from outside. On this occasion, no matter how powerful and professional for the diving watch's water resistance it is, it can not avoid that. The probability of the invasion of helium to watch is higher when using the PTC─DDC during the gsaturation diving. In the deep sea, helium would enter into the case due to external high pressure, and the process of this gas flow would make the pressure inside the watch be the same as the outside world. On the contrary, once divers rise, it will form the situation that the pressure inside the case is greater than the outside. The major brands began to attach importance to the exclusion of the nitrogen during the developing of the diver's watches. In 1971, Rolex produced Sea-Dweller that was equipped with helium escape valve and water resistant to 610 meters (2000 feet). Since 1980, the waterproof depth of Sea-Dweller had enhanced to 1220 meters, and today it is 3900m. Now Sea-Dweller is equipped with sapphire crystal, self-winding movement which is authenticated by COSC, and date display window. Its helium escape valve is on the left case, when the pressure inside the case is greater than the outside, the valve will automatically open to exhaust gas, while maintaining its water resistance. The characteristic of automatically opening the valve makes the divers do not have to take a toothpick to poke it, it can also automatically exhaust helium. In addition to SeaDweller, the Seamaster 300 of Omega is also equipped with helium escape valve. Besides the helium escape valve, there are other ways to overcome the limitation of water-resistant depth. IWC, which always stress the combination of performance and sports, launched a series of highly sporty watches with FA Porsche in the 1980s, among them, the most prestigious watches were the Ocean 2000 and Ocean 500, whose water resistance reached the standard of 2000 meters and 500 meters respectively. Ocean 2000 set record of the highest water resistance in the mass production of mechanical watches and maintained the record nearly two decades, and until 2002, it was broken by Breitling Avenger Seawolf that adopted the same titanium case and waterproof to 3000 meters. Ocean 2000 did not possess any designs like helium escape valve, IWC declared that there was a metal gasket in its titanium case to prevent the heat expansion which would affect the tightness ofcase. Although it could not resist the helium from entering, the helium could be evaporated quickly, so the helium escape valve was needless because the time of exudation of helium was sufficient to meet the time of rising. After finishing the partnership with Porsche for 20 years, IWC launched a new series of professional GST sports watch, GST was available in 18K Gold, Steel and Titanium. IWC GST Aquatimer possessed the waterproof performance of 2000 meters, which inherited the excellent waterproof tradition from its early Aquatimer, to replace the Ocean 2000 of Porsche Design by IWC which was very popular even had been out of print. And then IWC launched GST Deep One in Basel Fair in 1999, this was the first fully automatic diver's watch which could allow water to flow into the inside of the case and measure the depth of the water of 45M. With regard to Deep One, the crown located at 2 o'clock position was responsible for adjusting the depth gauge on inner bezel, while the button at 4 o'clock position was the Inlet valve. It could also caution the time consumption of oxygen cylinder. The design of patented stainless steel or titanium bracelet made this extraordinary diving sports watch become greatly valuable. Interestingly, this deservedly "professional" diving watch was only water resistant to100 meters. IWC claimed that 100 meters has far exceeded the limits of human non-mechanical diving, it's enough. When IWC gave Porsche Design Ocean 2000 (BUND) that was the first water resistance of 2000 meters in the world to the German Navy divers in that year, it was marked only 300m conservatively. Argon movement protection device and self-testing system of movement's humidity are the mentionable inventions in dive's watch developing history. These two inventions first appeared in Sinn 203 diving watch. All well-designed movements need the protection of lubricant grease to ensure the accuracy of operation. However, all-pervasive dampness will accelerate the aging process of the lubricant grease and movement, such damage is especially obvious for diving watch which is necessary in the water for a long time. Sinn developed an unique argon movement protection system. It poured the argon into the case, and after the case was sealed, it could resist the invasion from the oxygen and other extraneous dampness substances to prevent the aging of movement and maintain the high degree of accuracy. Sinn is specially equipped with a small tube which is filled with cupric sulfate powder and covered by transparent sapphire crystal, it will turn to blue from white when moisture is invading. When it turns to dark blue, the watch owner will know that the watch should be sent to do inspection and maintenance. Finally, we are going to talk about another interesting situation, which is also another reason for explaining why the diver's watch can be rooted in the people's hearts deeply and become popular watch: the film and media. In 1956, the Submariner Ref. 6538 and its follow-up watches launched by Rolex were widely popular because it appeared on the screen as it was worn by intelligence agent 007, and was even nicknamed James Bond Submariner. Omega Seamaster 300 replaced Submariner of Rolex and became agent James Bond's watch since the 007 movie named "Golden Eye" in 1995, and this mode of cooperation also continued to the later "Tomorrow Never Dies"(1997) and "the World"(1999) as well as "Die Another Day". In the 007 series, the Omega Seamaster had portrayed as life-saving magic that rescued him from desperation, even it had been given weapons capabilities that could cut steel plate with laser performance, or have detonated device, or could pull the cable wire to hang on a helicopter for escaping and so on, and these performances deepened the impression of doughty performance of diver's watch in the masses's mind. Whatever the Submariner of Rolex or the Seamaster of Omega, smart and brave James Pound climbed a mountain of swords or plunged into a sea of flames in the company of it during the series of 007 movies, the diver's watch always could be considered the symbol of having the courage to take adventure. Although part of the reason that Submariner and Seamaster could become James Pound's secret weapon was commercial operation and publicity, its excellence in its professional diver's watch field is recognized as quite an achievement that complement with the fictional smart character in the film. No matter how many you know about the diver's watch, we hope that you can become interested in diver's watch though you have never worn it after we have reviewed the history and interesting news of diver's watch, and we hope the readers who have owned the diver's watches can cherish the memory of the history and treasure, enjoy the free, colorful, inconstant life that watches have brought about.
  6. EdgyGuyJide

    Rolex Air King 116900

    2016 Basel watches and clocks show, Rolex released a new ceramic ring steel Dietong is popular, but the introduction of the new Air-King Air King 116900 is completely beyond everyone unexpected. Black surface 369 plus every 5 points of the digital scale, table diameter 40mm, into a typical flight table appearance. Rolex's "Air-King Air King" is part of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual series of the most basic entry models, only the most basic of the three-pin, no calendar window, the price is also the most approachable. It was once the history of Rolex's oldest watch, the earliest dates back to the 1950s. Since then, Rolex Oyster has been playing an important role in the airline's entrepreneurial period; it was accompanied by the first flight across Mount Everest; a year later, from London to Melbourne, a record return flight also flashed Its shadow. However, with the evolution of the times, Air-King air over the table 34 mm size to judge the modern look is too small, and Explorer explorers positioning quite close. So in 2014, Rolex began to Oyster Perpetual Oyster-style constant face picture to replace the new entry series, remove the Air-King logo, people think Air-King Air King series has officially entered the history of the. 2016 New 40mm Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King Air King 116900 is to pay tribute to the revolutionary era of aviation. The new watch still has a clean dial and excellent readability. But unusual is: the new air force 116900 has a soft iron inner shell, which has the same magnetic properties as MILGAUSS. There is no doubt that this is a typical pilot watch: clear and easy to read, a sense of movement and from the aircraft cockpit strong electromagnetic environment interference. Now 40mm in diameter, bigger than ever before. Previously, Rolex AirKing very small 34 mm, a few years ago I almost always recommend to the girls wearing entry-level choice, feeling more than the classic Oyster constant movement more exercise. In addition to the larger table diameter, the case style is the same as the oyster constant motion 39, the same smooth bezel, side case polishing, positive plane drawing, satin strap. Solid bottom cover and screw-in crown to ensure that the new AirKing116900 with 100 meters waterproof function. 116900 dial is clearly different from the common Rolex watch, at first glance, quite strange: its scale is characterized by a large number of hours and minutes of digital combination, and the outer edge of the dial track combined. Platinum polished hours 3/6/9 mark can be found in the Explorer (I have some malicious guess the old probe was 369 times the standard inventory too much, so to consume, rather than the new Explorer with luminous 369 time scale). White minute mark against the black dial - this is the typical style of the pilots watch in the 1940s. 116900 to create a military table and Explorer mix and match style. Satin black dial decorated with a variety of interesting details, such as 12 o'clock position under the white crown of the yellow crown. And then the following, green Rolex name with white "Oyster Perpetual" words. The bottom of the dial, printed with oblique grass "Air-King" words (font reminiscent of the history of the first Air King's dial words, which is typical of the tribute to the history of the trough), of course, "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified "The official certification of the highest level of the Observatory, which is proof of the Rolex test procedure. All previous Rolex watches are equipped with COSC certification, and now Rolex watches through a more accurate and strict certification - the daily error of -2 / +2 seconds. Hour hand for the Mercedes-Benz needle style, the central second hand for the green lollipop style. Air-King Air King 116900 equipped with a 3131 self-winding movement. With Explorer movement is basically the same, work in 28.800vph, with 48 hours power reserve. In addition to soft iron inner shell, 3131 movement is also equipped with blue anti-magnetic Parachrom gossamer. But the 116900 movement than the new 39 mm Explorer movement lacks the Paraflex shock. Rolex Air-King Air King 116900 solid steel strap and Oyster clasp and Rolex new Explorer exactly the same, but the price is cheaper, for the 5700 euros, Explorer priced at 6,000 euros, compared to the same magnetic performance MILGUASS cheap 20 %, Which makes it a truly super cost-effective Rolex new entry watches.
  7. Zhangwenna1993

    Vintage Watch Update

    This update opens with a superb example of the Rolex Air-King Ref. 5500 with so-called “3-6-9” dial. Date stamped for the year 1964, this is one of the early variant Air-King dials. The watch is in outstanding condition, the dial has no visible signs of oxidation or light damage to the surface and the steel case retains excellent definition. Above is an Extract from a Rolex catalogue from 1963 which shows a very similar variation of the Air-King – the catalogue version has a printed Rolex signature, luminescent hands and accents above the numerals; by contrast, the present watch has a raised Rolex signature and is a non-luminous version. The 1963 catalogue watch was advertised with a leather strap at £40 and with bracelet at £43 10s which, interestingly, was just £3 less than a Rolex Explorer model in the same catalogue. Next is a rare Universal Polarouter wristwatch. The Polarouter was launched towards the end of 1954 but soon afterwards the model was re-named the ‘Polerouter’ and, consequently, examples with the ‘Polarouter’ name are especially scarce. The watch is a Ref. 20217-3 which has a lovely large and robust stainless steel case with ‘bombé’ lugs, which have a sinuous flow and a polished finish. The ‘Polarouter’ / ‘Polerouter’ are iconic models and the original versions were designed by Universal in conjunction with the famous watch designer, Gerald Genta. Above is a detail showing the 1954 Polarouter signature to the present watch and, to its right, the Polerouter logo from a Ref. 20217 -5 dating to 1955. Note the change in shape and design of the Universal shield and the subtle changes to the fonts and cross-hair. Polerouters were the official pilots’ watches of the Scandinavian Airline, SAS. In 1954, SAS launched a new route from Copenhagen to New York which flew over the North Pole. This new route exposed the planes to strong magnetic fields that could adversely effect the timekeeping of a mechanical wristwatch. The Polarouter was designed to counter these effects and provide precision timekeeping for the Scandinavian Airline. Shown next is a Tudor / Rolex Royal which is cased in 9ct yellow gold. This watch has a very unusual, textured, silvered dial. The dial’s background has a cross-hatched web-form texture which is overlaid with asymmetrically placed, ribbed, oval-form motifs. The effect gives the dial a unique wave-form appearance as the dial catches the light and provides a great sense of three-dimensionality. This watch is in excellent condition and is complete with its original Tudor presentation case and receipt of sale, which shows that the watch was originally sold by Alexander Clark Jewellers of Fenchurch Street, London, in 1961. Photographed above is a stylish Tudor Oysterdate Ref. 7992. This watch has a circular satin finished dial and multi faceted losenge and baton shaped indexes. The serial number of this watch indicates the year of production as 1966, however, the numbered jeweller’s guarantee paper that accompanies the watch is dated 17th December 1973 and therefore suggests that the watch was either a new/old stock item, or perhaps was sold as a second hand item at that time. Also just added to the website is a very handsome Omega Ref. 14387, which dates to circa 1960. The dial is blemish free and the original lacquer has a wonderful lustre. Cased in stainless steel, the watch has a polished chamfered bezel and down-turned lugs. Rounding off this newsletter is a large and unusual stainless steel, cushion form wristwatch with hooded lugs. Measuring 37mm in width and made in 1975, this is an Omega Genève Ref. 166.0170 with an automatic calibre 1022 movement. The fast-beat movement has a hack feature for time synchronisation as well as provision for quick adjustment of the days of the week and date.
  8. I'm kind of only interested in few specific brands, so i picked up three my best favorite 3 watches from the Baselworld Show. Actually, it is virtually impossible to come up with just three, as there are so many watches in this show. But i really appreciate the design and color combination. Here are three watches. Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000 Case: 904L stainless steel, 40 mm in diameter, helium escape valve, screw-down crown, unidirectional rotating bezel with Cerachrom bezel, guaranteed water-resistant to 1,220 meters (4,000 feet) Movement: Calibre 3135, in-house developed and manufactured, self-winding, COSC certified, 28,800 vph (4Hz), 31 jewels, 48-hour power reserve, Parachrom hairspring, Breguet overcoil, large balance wheel with variable inertia screws, regulating via four gold Microstella nuts Bracelet: Oyster three-piece bracelet with solid links, 904L stainless steel, satin-finished, polished edges, Oysterlock folding safety clasp, Rolex Glidelock extension system (20 mm in increments of 2 mm), Fliplock extension link (26 mm) Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Caliber: Omega 1861 Famous manual-winding chronograph movement that was worn on the Moon. Rhodium-plated finish. Power reserve: 48 hours Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides Case: Titanium - Sedna Gold Bracelet: Leather strap Dial: Grey Water resistant: 5 bar(50 metres / 167 feet) Tudor Unveils New Edition of Heritage Black Bay 41 mm steel case with polished and satin finish Unidirectional rotatable steel bezel, matt burgundy red disc Self-winding mechanical movement, TUDOR calibre 2824(Total diameter: 26 mm; Height: 4.60 mm; Jewels: 25 Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour; Power reserve: ~38 hours) Power reserve of approximately 38 hours Screw-down winding crown in steel with burgundy red insert and engraved with the TUDOR rose Domed sapphire crystal Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft) Aged leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch Size: Case Diameter: 42 mm
  9. Last year, Rolex launched Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II with blue and black ceramic bezels in Basel, which was the first two-color ceramic bezels and surprised to everyone. In 2004, Rolex published larger-scale contemporary significant watch – Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II with red and blue ceramic bezel . We always have expectation of Rolex in Basel. Though Rolex isn't involved in complicated watch area, it can still surprise us for the technology. It looks like the new Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II in 2014 just changing the color, but it is hard to imagine the effort they made. When we released the "blue and black bezel" last year, we have said no one had managed to discover a way of manufacturing a watch component in high-technology ceramic with bulk coloring in two distinct colors, no one before Rolex. There had bigger problem to "red and blue bezel" this year, red is an extremely difficult color to obtain and an unusual color for ceramic, then found a way to modify the chemical composition of each grain, and change the color of half the insert from red to blue, while ensuring a sharp delineation between the two colors. Rolex Cerachrom bezel unveiled in 2005, offering exceptional scratch and corrosion resistance. Its colors are unaffected by ultraviolet rays. 24-hour index in ceramic bezel is coated with a thin layer of platinum via a PVD. In addition, new Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II has been upgraded in material, the case and bracelet adopt 18 k platinum other than the previous style. The interior still adopted in-house self winding Cal.3186, provided date and GMT function, GMT hand circled the dial once every 24 hours. It is clearly to read the time.
  10. Chriseek

    Rolex FAQ

    1. Is this Rolex watch is a fake on eBay? We should be cautious when want to buy Rolex on eBay. The positive reviews from other Rolex transactions are just references; we still need to ask questions and know everything well of the watch. Please note that the referential pictures on the auction maybe not the actual pics of the watch. If you are not sure about the watch, post the auction’s information to the forum to ask other people’s opinion, lots of forum members like this kind of discussion. 2. How to judge your Rolex is authentic or not? Many members on forum are well known rolex and other brand watches, and most of they are able to identify fakes simply according the pics (clear pics), so you can try to post some photos to ask others’ opinion. But the only reliable way to distinguish the authority is to send your watch to the Rolex Service Center and let them make official identification or you can also send your watch to an authorized Rolex dealer and let them check it thoroughly. Some experienced watchsmiths can instantly know the authority by opening the caseback. If you simply inspect the watch from outlook, some refined fake watches sometimes can fool people, but the lower price of a fake, it easier to identify. So if you want to buy Rolex with any risk of buying a fake watch, the safest way is to buy it from the authorized dealers. 3. What is the Laser hologram label? What does it look like? The laser hologram label is a circular anti-counterfeit label, stickered on the caseback. Its function is to prove a brand new genuine Rolex. It is printed with “Rolex” logo on, it’s the laser hologram, so able to display 3d image under the irradiation of point light source, reference number of the watch is printed on the center and the surface is covered by a piece of transparent plastic with red lines. The function of the red lines is to protect the label that tends to be abraded when we wear the watch, so we can roughly estimate how long have this watch been worn through the degree of wear. Rolex was using a piece of green paper printed with reference number before the use of laser holographic label. 4. Should i tear off the laser holographic label? The answer is just as you wish. If you want to tear it off then do it, but if you want to keep it then don’t. However, this question is no longer a question because Rolex replaced the laser holographic label by a piece of green transparent sticker since July, 2007. 5. How can i get rid of the label? You can tear it off directly and rub it a while to remove the glue, the label so will be damaged and leave some traces on the caseback, this is also to ensure the label can not be reused. It was also said that if you tear it off carefully with a knife, it can be removed completely. But now, the green transparent plastic is very easy to tear. 6.The label has been taken off, how should i deal with it? You can stick it on your paper or throw it away. It depends on your own intentions. 7. Will the label influence the resale of the watch? If the watch is NIB (New in Box) or NM (Near Mint) and you will sell it in short term or you just buy it for investment purpose, keeping the label can increase the price actually. But if you will wear it even will pass down the watch to your children, then you don’t need to considerate the secondhand price, just wear it and leave it alone. Tear it will affect the second price but keep it will cause corrosion on the caseback, so this decision is totally depending on your own intentions. 8. where on the watch are engraved with the reference No. and the Serial No.? The reference number and the serial number are engraved on the 12 and 6 o’clock position between the lug, but you need to remove the bracelet to see that. The number between the bracelet and the joint is component number not the reference number. 9.The comparison between the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster We can not draw a conclusion curtly. Only you can make a conclusion when you have both of the two watches on hand. But these two watches are both superb anyway. 10.What are the Rolex watches appeared in the movies or on TV? This is a common question on Rolex forum. Here is the brief answer: what James Bond and Sean Connery wore is Rolex Submariner 5508 with gray NATO bracelet, called James Bond Submariner now; in <Live and Let Die>, what Bond equipped is the 5513 with a hacksaw bezel. In 2003, the Omega was the supporting role in the movie, they also published the 007 commemorative edition watch. The watch in <24 Hours> is also the Submariner. 12. Which Rolex watch should i buy? I have no instructional advice on this question. But most members in the forum will give advice like: 1) a watch can make you “smile” when you wear it 2) the prototype watch that the advertising spokesperson wears. 13. Is there any defect of Rolex bracelet? Rolex is always using the metal bracelet on the men’s watch, and changed very little since the middle 20th century. They replaced the hollow bracelet by solid bracelet, added the Jubilee commemorative bracelet and recently introduced a solid end-links, SEL bracelet. Common criticism is that other watches have adopted the more fashionable Deployant Style Clasps and using the integral machine parts, but Rolex bracelet are still stamping molded. But Rolex buckle is very strong, at least as strong as most other buckles. Compared with deployant style clasps, one advantage is that it is very convenient for Rolex buckles to adjust and change the length of the bracelet. Most folding clasp can only increase or decrease the entire length of the bracelet, while Rolex can move the connection core on the buckle to change the length of the bracelet. Personally i think Rolex bracelet are very lovely and comfortable. The latest bracelet are much more better and all watches are equipped with the solid bracelet now. 14. My Rolex always has clatter sound It is maybe from the bracelet, move the strap and see if it has clatter sound, because all the non-SEL straps have this nasty clatter sound. Some members of the Rolex forum bend the “wings” a little bit at the bottom of the bracelet to narrow the gap between the bracelet heads. 15. What is the SEL? The full title of SEL is the Solid End-Links, meaning a part of the bracelet that connect with the lug. They are folding metal sheet with little wings under it before the 1990s, but SEL is a whole piece of metal after milling machine processing. 16. How often should i maintain my Rolex? There are two answers to this question. Maintenance of modern watches should be done every five years, but for antique watches, the time better be shorter. On the other hand, some WIS think it is unnecessary to maintain the watch regularly, just repair it when it is damaged. 17. What’s the relationship between Tudor and Rolex? What is California Dials? A) the trademark You may have noticed at the Rolex official agents where often can see the logo of Tudor in its entrance, Tudor is also owned by Rolex and the position of Tudor in Rolex company is second-tier brands. In the past, the design of Tudor was always imitated from Rolex watches, from Submariner to Day-Date and the Oyster Prince DateJust and a lot of other watches. But Tudor also has some exceptional unique watches owned by themselves, such as Mini-Sub etc. Recently, they began to break this tradition and started to produce some watches differentiated with traditional Rolex watches, such as Tiger Chronograph. B ) the watchcase Tudor are using the Rolex Oyster watchcase, engraved with Rolex, which has not this sculpture used by Rolex watch (the SeaDweller is an exception). But Tudor use 316L steel while Rolex use more solid 904 steel. Moreover, a lot of crown guards of many Tudor watches also have Rolex crown logo. C) the movement Tudor is using the ETA movement not the Rolex movement. D) the collection value As a family member of Rolex, Tudor watches are more expensive than other brand watches that use the ETA movement. Some Tudor watches for military purpose are more collectible, the old Tudor with rose logo is more collectible than modern Tudor with crown logo and the hands of army watches are more collectible than mercedes hands. F) can i know the production year of my Tudor through the reference number ? it is obvious that the Rolex factory did not deal with the reference number of Tudor watch as the way of rolex. The only way to know the production year is to open the caseback and find out the date stamp. They are like: I/78,II/88,III/79 and IV/71. The Roman numbers stand for the quarter of the year and the Arabic numbers is the year of production. 18. What’s the meaning of T Swiss Made T, Swiss Made T-25 and Tritium? T means the watch uses the tritium as the luminescent material.Tritium is a little radioactive and can continue light for many years. It’s half-life is 12.5 years. Only the watch is broken, tritium would be harmful and it will only hurt people that frequently contact with it, such as watch maker and dial makers. The T maker means the tritium is sealed in box. T Swiss Made T is the earliest tritium mark that appeared on the dial. If the radioactive material is less than 25mm Curie, the watch will be marked with Swiss Made T-25. Watches marked with Swiss Made uses the no radioactive material, Luminova which can glow for hours after the light irradiation. Rolex only marked T-25 on the Luminova dial. 19. How old is my watch? (according to the reference number) Here is the answer: R000001 ---1987 1/2 R999999 ---1988 L000001 ---1989 L999999 ---1990 1/2 E000001 ---1990 1/2 E999999 ---1991 1/2 X000001 ---1991 1/2 N000001 ---Nov 1991 C000001 ---1992 S000001 ---1993 W000001 ---1994/5 T000001 ---1996 U000001 ---Aug 1997 A000001 ---Nov/Dec 1998 P000001 ---Jan 2000 K000001 ---Mid 2001 Y000001 ---Mid 2002 F000001 ---Mid 2003 D000001 ---Early 2005 Z000001 ---Early 2006 M000001 ---Late 2007 V000001 ---Late 2008 The english number inside the bracelet: 1982 G 1984 N 1985 J 1987 L 1988 M 1990 O 1991 1992 P 1993 R 1994 S 1995 T 1996 V 1997 1998 Z 1999 X 2000 AB 2001 DE 2002 DT 2003 AD 2004 CL 2005 MA 2006 OP 2007 EO 2008 PJ 2009 LT The numbers after the english characters represent the month. Such as PJ3 means March, 2008. 20. Is this watch too large or too small for me? I have no instructional advice on this question. But the watch diameter of present men’s sport watch is 44mm, such as SUB and that of the formal watch is about 35-38mm, such as DateJust. The style of women’s watch is more changeable. 21. Why the Rolex is so expensive? Rolex can ensure that every Rolex watch can be sold out at this price and customers are acceptable about the price, so they don’t need to reduce the price. No customer is forced to buy Rolex. It’s also suggested that Rolex is more valuable than other brands. 22. Why the introduction of the Rolex watch is so vague in the Rolex Website? Why my watch can not be found in the Rolex Website? There are two explanations: one is that Rolex hope buyers go to the agent stores to feel the watches in the flesh, so the few introduced details on the website is deliberate, on the other hand, every Rolex watch can be sold out, so there is no need to maintain the website. 23. What’s the difference between DateJust and Date? The size If not including the crown, the DateJust diameter is 36mm and the Date diameter is 34mm. And the Date is using the Oyster bracelet while the DateJust is using Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. The price of DateJust is higher but they are using the same movement. The diameter of New DateJust II in 2009 is 41mm. 24. What will come with a New Rolex? Oyster series The outer carton box; the inside box; a small pillow or clip to support watch; COSC painted brand; Swimpruf hang tag; certificate or COSC certificate; instruction book; Oyster manual. Submariner has an anchor besides above attachments and Sea-Dweller has an anchor and a strap tool besides above attachments. What’s the strap of the Sea-Dweller used for? Why only Sea-Dweller has it? This tool is used for adding or removing the extended buckles to make the watch suitable for wearing it on diving suit. This tool has two instrument heads and an aka fibre pin of the diver's extension links. The anchor was no longer attached since D series. The Sea-Dweller ref.16600 also stopped producing since V series and have been replaced by ref. 116660. 25. What kind of SS Rolex is using? Most watches are using 1.4435 or 316L SS while Rolex is using 1.4439 or 904L SS, a little different with 1.4435. The hardness of 904L and 316L is same but the nickel content of the steel of 904L is higher, it may cause the wearer which has sensitive skin to nickel allergies. But 904L is more resistant to corrosion. Considerate the price of the 904L is about 3 times higher than that of 316L, so there is no factory will use the 904L besides Rolex. 26. How many kind of the bracelet and the buckle have? Basically there are: Jubilee, Oyster, Oysterlock, Oyster Fliplock and President etc. Oyster: a basic folding clasp, snap on by pressure Oyster Lock: similar with the above-mentioned Oyster, but there is a safety buckle attached to the buckle to prevent accidental loss. If you want to open it you have to pull the safety buckle to the left firstly and then you can open the buckle to the right. Filp lock: similar with the Oyster Lock but added with diver’s extension. The buckle is also longer to cover the extension. President: The president bracelet is famous for the American president Dwight D. Eisenhower, he wore one of this bracelet when it first appeared in 1956. To celebrate the victory of WWII, Rolex gave a 18k DateJust to president Eisenhower (British Prime Minister Winston Churchill Churchill also has one) and this watch was changed with a new bracelet when it was returned to the factory to be repaired and be maintained. And this is why this bracelet is called President. Day-date is called president but objective speaking, this name is inferred to the bracelet. And the watch that president Eisenhower owned is actually a DateJust not today’s Day-Date. 27. How can i open the diver’s extension? The diver’s extension is an extended folding clasp on the Filplock bracelet. Expanding it can extend the length of the bracelet to meet the demand of wearing it on the outside of the diving suit. Submariner and Sea-Dweller are using the Flipclock bracelet. If you don’t know how to use it correctly , please turn to the Rolex dealer. SEL bracelet: there is an “O” shape button beside the buckle. Depressing it can release the extend buckle. The extend buckle may be rigid, you can try to fiddle it carefully. Non-SEL bracelet: open the buckle and pull the strap up until the extend buckle is full released. 28. What’s the He escape valve on the Sea-Dweller used for? Divers is always under a tremendous pressure in saturation diving, so the divers can extend dive time and stay in deep water for a longer time without going through decompression process. Because the helium molecules are very small, high-pressure gas (usually mixed with helium) can penetrate into the watch through the unfastened crown. This watch is designed to withstand external pressure rather than internal pressure, so the high pressure gas will explode the crystal when decompressing. There is a resilient valve on the case of Sea-Dweller and it will automatically open when the internal pressure is too large. Omega Seamaster also has a helium escape valve on its 10 o’clock position, but it need to manually unscrew. 29. The date change lasted over five and a half minutes at midnight. Is it a problem? It’s no problem. But if it takes more than one hour to convert date display, you should ask Rolex or other watchmaker to adjust it. 30. What is the re-dial? When the scale coating of an old dial is cracked, we clean it, paint it and write it again. If your watch dial is damaged (such as broken by soakage), just fix it through re-dial. Experts are able to find the traces of renovation, because the font is different after all. If your dial is very old, i suggest you don’t renovate it, because the renovation will reduce the collection value of an antique watch, collectors prefer the original and antique watches rather than the renovated watches. Of cause, if you do not intend to sell your watch again, and hope the dial looks very new, you can renovate it. But my advice is don’t be too stingy, because cheap inferior renovation will be very bad. 31. Why the preservation value of Rolex is better than that of other watches? One is that the brand acceptance is very high which resulted in a large secondhand watch market, on the other hand is Rolex design changes slowly, the old Rolex is not easy to be obsolete. 32. The fake Rolex There many fake Rolex watches in the watch market, even some cannot operate, and there are some watches equipped with ETA movement and good watchcase (the cost of these watches is almost as much as the price of a Rolex watch). My advice is do not buy them. Many members can identify the majority of the fake watch according to its quality or the differences between the true watch. The only way to confirm that the watch is a true Rolex is to ask a watchmaker to check its movement, the movement of Rolex watches is different with any other movements. There is no fake watches can fool a watchmaker that is very familiar with Rolex watch. There are also a lot of fake watches have box, certificates and other attachments. 33. What’s the polishing cloth used for? Where can i buy it? Most Rolex WIS do not use the polishing cloth. But you can buy it in Sales Corner or post WTB on eBay on search it on the internet. These attachments are very common, but usually expensive than other watch tools. 34. What the warranty paper looks like? Is there any new version? The background of the new warranty paper is diamond shape pattern. 35. Appearance problems A) my watch crown is not on a straight line Take it easy, it’s very normal. there are some scratches on my watchcase, how can i get rid of it? 1) Yes you can, but its unnecessary, many people will suggest that you should wait till it need to be repaired. The qualified technicians or Rolex factory technicians will polish it and making it looks like a new one, i mean looks like a new one. 2) Yes you can, there is an excellent guide on how to polish stainless steel Rolex written by Jocke. 3) Not recommended, if your watch is K gold watchcase, then don’t polish it because it will abrade it. C) how should i polish the watchcase? You can go to see these pictures that Jocke posted on the TimeZone Classics. He also has a great guid about how to make a mirror effect on the center link of the Oyster bracelet . How can i polish the acrylic watchcase? The Polywatch is particularly designed for polishing the acrylic watchcase. Some people also use the Brasso. I’ve tried on my Air-king, the effect is very good indeed. 36. Dose there any marks on the caseback of the Rolex? The Rolex watches are not carved with patterns except the Sea-Dweller, some women’s watches and most Tudor watches. But some Rolex watches, such as COMEX Submariner has and ref. 116660 and ref. 116400 is also engraved with patterns on its caseback. 37. Is there any transparent caseback of Rolex watches? Can i order one? Except the Prince watch, there are only two Rolex watches has transparent caseback, and James Dowling owns one of these two watches. If you see the other one, it is barely true. Of cause you can use the clock machine to make your own transparent caseback , but most people in our discussion area think its a bad idea, because it will not only destroy the precious waterproof performance, but also will let other people think its a fake watch. And frankly speaking, Rolex movement is famous for its performance, the decorative performance is not so well. 38. How can i clean my Rolex? If your watch is a Oyster watch, you can use water to clean. Before you wash it you should confirm that the waterproof of the watch is perfect (means that the watch is been regularly maintained, the crown has been tightened up and so on). But if your watch is Cellini or other non-waterproof watch, please don’t do that. And avoid the use of solvents and detergents to protect the gasket from corrosion. 39. What is the use of the laser etching logo? The sapphire crystal has been engraved with a small crown logo since 2002. This logo is on the 6 o’clock position, it’s needed a 10 times eyepiece or good eyesight to see. Its actually a security measure of Rolex, but not all the Rolex watches have this mark, the manufacturer use this measure on the production line gradually, just like all other Rolex changes. The logo with S on the caseback means the crystal has been replaced during the maintenance. Most of people think it’s very good-looking and it’s not important for collection value and secondhand price. The ref. 16622 in 1999 seems has used this logo, and most watches are using this logo now. 40. Serial number, reference number, certification and others What is the meaning of these numbers before the serial number? They are country code, which stands for which country or region this watch is shipped to. 010 - Switzerland 012 - Switzerland 013 - Switzerland 014 - Switzerland 015 - Switzerland 021 - Switzerland 022 - Switzerland 023 - Switzerland 025 - Switzerland 026 - Switzerland 033 - Switzerland 044 - Switzerland 045 - Switzerland 061 - Switzerland 100 - Germany 110 - France 112 - France 113 - France 120 - Austria 121 - Austria 123 - Austria 126 - Austria 128 - Austria 130 - Belgium/Luxembourg 133 - Netherlands 134 - Netherlands 135 - Netherlands 136 - Netherlands 137 - Netherlands 138 - Netherlands 150 - Spain 160 - England 170 - Italy 200 - Greece 201 - Malta 202 - Turkey 207 - Corfu 208 - Greece 213 - Portugal 217 - Portugal 218 - Portugal 226 - Denmark 228 - Denmark 233 - Denmark 237 - Iceland 241 - Norway 265 - Sweden 267 - Sweden 270 - Sweden 271 - Sweden 283 - Finland 321 - Czech Republic 325 - Serbia Montenegro 400 - Hong Kong 413 - Korea 430 - Singapore/Brunei 431 - Malaysia 440 - Taiwan 500 - India 505 - Pakistan 527 - Middle East 529 - Saudi Arabia 532 - Saudi Arabia 535 - Katar 536 - Abu Dhabi 537 - Dubai 538 - Oman 542 - Iran 548 - Israel 612 - Egypt 634 - Congo 666 - Singapore 668 - Mombasa 680 - South Africa 700 - Canada 710 - USA 720 - Mexico 722 - Mexico 733 - Honduras 741 - Bahamas 742 - Bermuda 752 - Jamaica 757 - Antigua 758 - Virgin Islands 761 - Netherlands Antilles 762 - Aruba 765 - Antigua 766 - Saint Martin 767 - Cayman Islands 768 - Panama 770 - Venezuela 780 - Brazil 781 - Chile 790 - Argentina 810 - Australia/New Zealand 818 - Philippines 828 - Taiwan 838 - China 842 - New Zealand 871 - Hawaii 872 - Alaska 874 - Hong Kong 873 - Guam 888 - Hong Kong 900 - Japan 902 - AAFES, Germany ---- The Army and Air Force Exchange Service 906 - Natex Retail, German NATO Airbase ---- Natex Retails 907 - Rheindalen, German NATO Headquarter ---- Rheindalen
  11. Chriseek

    Rolex OysterQuartz

    The Rolex Oyster Quartz maybe is a wrong product positioning in that competitive year, even at the time, Rolex promised that this company would step into Swiss watchmaking industry with overwhelming advantages of their electronic watches. In early 1950s, Rolex turned to do their own research of electronic watch and got their first patent on electro-mechanical watch design. In fact, the < The Best of Time > written by James Dowling, a Rolex collector, mentioned that Rolex applied for 50 patents between 1960 and 1990, of which 21 were for electrical watch. Rolex once applied for patent on a digital (LED) watch movement in 1970s, One such movement made it all the way to the prototype stage and was issued the reference number 7065 (didn't published officially). The Ref, 5100 Quartz Date was the first quartz watch commercially available by Rolex, in 1970, this watch was equipped with the famous Beta 21 quartz movement, just the same as other companies, such as the OMEGA and the ENICAR. Rolex only had produced 1000 of this watch before they started to develop their own quartz movement and the watch that would eventually become the Oysterquartz. In 1977, after five years of design, development and testing, Rolex officially published 5035 for the Oysterquartz Datejust, and the Cal. 5055 for the Oysterquartz Day-Date. The movement utilized the latest CMOS circuit technology with the 32khz oscillator and 11 jewels to analog thermocompensation so to meet up with the COSC criterions. In addition, what they have finished was the higher standard than that of former Rolex's mechanical movement. No exaggeration to say that even today, there is no movement produced by any company can compare to the 5035/5055. The Royal Oak IN 1972 Audemars Piguet published Royal Oak in 1972, which is designed by Gerald Genta. Many people think this being the best watch that he has ever designed. At that time, Rolex published the Rolex Oyster 50 anniversary watch: the Oyster Perpetual of the Ref. 1530 (S/S) and the Ref. 1630 (S/YG), and then published the Oyster quartz watch with the same appearance design in 1974. Many people criticized that Rolex was duplicating the AP Royal Oak. Strictly speaking, this criticism is unfair. Personally, i think many people had overlooked the Rolex Viceroy and Imperial Oyster case design, they are apparently the source inspiration of Oyster quartz. Rolex quartz Ref. 19018 The Oyster Quartz Date Just that Rolex produced for 25 years including Ref, 17000 (S/S), Ref. 17013 (S/YG), Ref. 17014 (S/WG), all gold Ref. 19018 (YG) and Ref, 19019 (WG). And the special editions of Oyster quartz contains diamond paved dials, bezels and bracelets, all demands are covered. It has been estimated that in all less than 25,000 Oysterquartz watches were ever produced. The last year the Ref 17000 appeared in the Rolex catalog was 2001, and this was also the last year Rolex received any chronometer certificates for quartz movements from the COSC. This means 2001 was likely the last year any Oysterquartz watches were actually produced. The steel/gold and all gold models continued in the Rolex catalog until 2003 when the stock of these last models was finally depleted.
  12. I know this can't be called as photography but I would like to be the first one post in this category, just registered and hello all!!!
  13. history of explorer I Until nowadays in many rolex watch fan’s mind, they might still think explorer I was released to commemorate a great task of human being by creating a record of climbing on May 29th, 1953 (team members including Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay etc), the fact somehow was partly true. We know that since 1933 rolex had been an official supporter of Himalayan expedition and later Everest expedition by offering each explorer with its wristwatch, but Rolex wasn’t the exclusive supporter, it said that when Edmund Hillary climbed up on the top of Everest, what he wore was a watch from British supporter Smith, and what Tenzing Norgay wearing was the Explorer. The Explorer was actually based on the already existing workhorse and durable bubbleback, rolex further revised and updated it for more suitable active and adventurous customer. First prototypes of Explorer to be used was reference 6098 and 6150 which both were used movement A296, but didn’t bear the name of Explorer at the time, two watches were design to be with white dials and leaf shaped hands. Actually you can see from the above pic, Tenzing Norgay was wearing the Explorer when climbed on Everest, the watch indeed had the typical black dial and 3 6 9 luminous Arabic number, though hands were not our well known Mercedes hands today (later showed up only in a small number of ref.6350) but a purely luminous straight hands, the luminous dot on center second hand were larger than today’s. Worth mentioning that on this Explorer whose dial was marked as word “Precision” rather than “Explorer”. Explorer Ref. 6350 These models were changed to reference 6298 and 6350 in 1953 when they were equipped with the iconic Explorer type of 3 6 9 Arabic dial and later applied with Merceded hands. Therefore, before Hillary and Norgay climbed on to the top of Everest, the name of Explorer wasn’t used. Rolex had registered the trademark of Explorer in Geneva on Jan 26th, 1953, so here came the name of Explorer after Hillary and Norgay climbing up the Everest, that is “Explorer” began to be added on ref. 6350 after the successful climbing of 1953. Anyway, ref.6350 was truly made for Explorers, it had a highly readable dial design, its case was also particularly strengthened and uses special lubricant to make the watch practicable between -20 degree to 40 degree. Ref. 6150 was discontinued in 1959 and replaced by ref.6610. advertisement of Explorer Ref. 1016 in 1975 an Explorer Ref. 6150 auctioned at Antiquorum an Explorer Ref. 6298 auctioned at Antiquorum honeycomb styled dial of Exoplorer Ref. 6350 In fact, ref.6610 and ref.6150 were majorly the same, yet ref.6610 was using the new cal.1030 movement and the back is more flat. After five years of production of ref.6610, it was replaced by ref.1016 which was the most famous edition with the longest production in all the Explorers until replaced by Ref. 14270, explorer 1016 somehow was like 6610 from semblance, but movement changed to 1560 and water resistance increased from 50m to 100m. During the production time, 1016 also changed quite often. First generation of 1016 made some changes in 1975, from cal.1560 movement updated to caliber 1570 movement with hacking, and oyster bracelet changed to solid steel bracelet. an Explorer Ref. 6610 auctioned at Antiquorum Explorer Ref. 1016 timeless Explorer Ref. 1016 In 1989, ref.14270 was grandly published on market with great expectation and surprise. In addition to keeping the name of Explorer and Mercedes hands, the conception of ref.14270 was fully different from 1016: movement cal.3000 with higher frequency, sapphire crystal, updated case and dial. These updates made the style of 14270 full of a feeling of elegance and modern, but the sporty and explorer style of 1016 was still unforgettable for most the rolex watch fans, plus with only a small amount, price of 1016 also skyrocketed, currently 1016 on market almost doubled the price than brand new 14270 14270 In 2001, the ref. 114270 replaced 14270 by using cal.3130 movement. Regardless of the antique Explorer ref.6350, 1016 or the previous generation of 14270 or the current 114270, rolex Explorer has always been the watch with simple and clean design both from appearance and function, steel bracelet, automatic movement, black 3 6 9 dial… it’s really not eye catching enough from first sight. But maybe right just because of its simplicity, the longer time you know Explorer you will find it with greater and greater attraction and charming. More surprised phenomenon is that not just male watch fans, though females are highly appreciated Explorer by its modern and sporty casual style. Many watch fans had asked questions like why Explorer such a simple watch is capable to be sought after by worldwide fans with such unexpectedly high price. But we just love it without reasons. Main difference between 14270 and 114270 Movement: 14270 – cal.3000, 27 jewels 114270 – cal.3130 31 jewels, both movements are excellent movements Bracelet: both use the same clasp, however, 114270 adopted solid end links on the bracelet Explorer I-214270 was debuted at Baseworld 2010 and increased size from 36mm to 39mm with cal.3132 movement. history of Explorer II Rolex Explorer II, sometimes it may be referred to as the “Steve McQueen” rolex, in spite of the fact we never see he wore one, however it being one of the most sought after wristwatches nowadays. First show up was in 1971, with the prototype reference as 1655 which basically was an addition new edition to GMT Master Ref.1675. The first Explorer II watch, ref. 1655, featured an extra hour hand (in a bright orange color) for a 24-hour notation. Rolex claimed that Explorer II was specially designed for Speleologist, cave explorers or some sort of adventurers, cause once got into the darkness cave without a ray of light, they might lose sense of direction quickly, without telling day or night certainly can’t tell it was 4am or 4pm. Plus cave adventure may inevitably ran into rocks around, the rotatable 24 hour notation relatively not reliable enough, so rolex changed it to fixed 24-hour notation in sake of security of these adventurers. Let’s just leave aside whether they gonna lose direction-sense or not, early release of Explorer II ref.1655, market welcome was actually quite flat, but rather popular among some professionals who need pay more attention on timezone changes like pilots. But however, Explorer II now is one of the most collectible rolex models. The movement used in Explorer II was exactly the same as movement used in GMT Master models, caliber 1570 and 1575 movements were used for ref.1655. during the entire production period of 1655, only some small details are changed by rolex, besides the different bracelet rolex used during the 1970s (riveted, folded and later on, solid), the second hand went from a straight shaped “needle” to a hand with two circles, one on long end and another on the short end. Also the color of 24-hour changed from orange to red-orange and the font on dial had some tiny differences on later models. Until 1984, rolex polished a new Explorer II ref.16550, updates including sapphire crystal, a caliber 3085 movement with double bridge and a white dial apart from the black dial model. Biggest change should be the shape of the hands, especially the 24-hour hand that was changed from a small red-orange arrow shaped hand to a long and sleek designed red 24-hour hand with a white arrow at the end. Somehow, 16550 had some issues, like the white paint on dial faded to a more creamish color, the black dial model also suffered issues as well, having cracks in glossy finish. Therefore, 16550 model is also referred to as a transitional model cause new model ref.16570 was launched in 1989. The 4-5 years production period of 16550 is a very short production time in rolex history. New model Explorer II 16570 applied with a rather new movement caliber 3185, apart from bracelet, can be found only one major update from previous model, and that is the use of black hour marker rings and hands on the white dial version. Similar with Submariner and GMT Master, new model of the cream-dial has white gold hour markers and hands. Since the emerge of Explorer II, it was like the addition version of GMT Master, however its popularity has never fall behind GMT Master, aside from the aesthetic reason, its name of explorer may let people full of imaginations, or affected by the popularity of its predecessor explorer 1655, or the vague legend of Steve McQueen, all these factors make Explorer II even more popular and welcomed. After all, simply depending on a tiny watch, you will have the experience of imaging yourself being an explorer or a famous star, which is just an irresistible temptation.
  14. vhjighi

    Rolex Milgauss history

    today I wanna share a historical rolex model with you guys, which was not a popular model once yet so far it has become one of the most welcomed watches, today my job is to tell its history. So here I’m about to begin. Birth of Milgauss ancestor Speaking of producing wristwatches, we all know rolex did its best bringing us some great wristwatches with highly collectible value, like submariner, explorer, GMT and so on, these are all very known rolex models, however, one series people may not well recognized and that is what we gonna to discuss here the rolex antimagnetic Milgauss. In rolex history, this series had always been a non hot-sale model, since 1954 to the previous generation of Milgauss discontinued in 1988, during its thirty years of production, Milgauss was not well sold all the way. Until 2007 at the Baselworld, rolex re-launch the fully new Milgauss and caused a sensation and now it being a most popular model in the world, but who knows it once had a bleak history. Let’s start from its name “Milgauss”, it consists of two Franch words, “mille” means 1000 while “Gauss” is a name of a German Mathematicians and physicists –Friedrich Gauss, meanwhile it also being an electromagnetic unit. In 1954, Milgauss debuted, was firstly planned to be made for staffs who need to work in labs or power station. This kind of job occupation requires working in high electromagnetic field often, while you know magnetic field is one of the major factors affects inaccuracy of a watch. Average watch will become unstable in situation of 60 oersted, over 100 osersted, movement will stop if it’s magnetized, but Milgauss can run accurate in 1000 oersted surroundings, I even heard people says Milgauss can withstand 5000 oersted magnetic, so we can see how rigorous the standard is for these rolex models. First Milgauss generation was under the name of 6541, with the requirement of Counseil European pour la Recherche Nuclearire, rolex produced its first antimagnetic wristwatch, the 6541 with 1030 movement, later changed to 1065M, 1066M and 1080, the screwed down case back had an extra cross-shaped accessory inside (called as Faraday Cage) which is the reason why Milgauss 6541 can bear high magnetic field. Outlook of 6541 was derived from submariner of the time, looked quite similar with Submariner, unusual feature of 6541 was its orange lightning-bolt second hand with a small red arrow at the top, and employed an oversized case and bezel, with twinlock crown, a riveted oyster bracelet. After 6541, another model was launched in 1958 and that was 6543, bezel was fastened this time, with 1065 movement, other aspects were almost the same as 6541, somehow been regarded as the affordable version of 6541, but said production of 6543 was so limited, only eighty pieces was made. So somehow we say 6543 was more valuable than 6541. Honeycomb dial riveted bracelet, no crown guard From left to right respective are 6541 with plastic bezel insert, 6543 with smooth bezel and later version of 6541 with metal bezel insert price at the time was much higher than explorer Until mid 60s, rolex released another antimagnetic Milgauss named 1019, with 1580M movement, an antimagnetic caseback, adopted linear hand instead of lightning-bolt second hand but still kept the red arrow. The case diameter of 1019 Milgauss was 38mm, 1019 Milgauss was anti-magnetic to 1000 Gauss, moreover water resistant to 50m. Milgauss 1019 was discontinued in 1980, during its whole production history, most particular and unique design would belong to the CERN dial produced in early time, it was exclusively customized for Counseil European pour la Recherche Nuclearire (CERN), by giving up the use of luminous material for sake of wiping out any radiation factor. Searched on internet, and found this model totally produced about 500 pieces and not an official watch model sold at rolex ADs, customers who want to buy it only will wait a later period, so we can CERN dial should be the most unique model of 1019. the CREN dial without any luminous material I mentioned above, at Baselworld 2007, rolex showed the world their new Milgauss, and released two models and three types, they were 116400 (two dial colors available white and black dial), 116400GV green crystal. 116400 with black dial 116400 with white dial 116400GV with green crystal New Milgauss adopted 3131 movement, Parachrom-Blu hairspring, with merits of antimagnetic, shockproof and temperature-resistance making this Milgauss very accurate in many extreme environments. In appearance, new Milgauss combined features of previous two generations, the missed lightning-bolt for years was back to the new Milgauss again, but this time with color of orange, very eye-catching. Although popularity of Milgauss can’t catch up with the Submariner, explorer or Daytona, its status in the whole watch industry can’t be neglected.
  15. vhjighi

    Rolex Sea-Dweller

    During the 1960s, the needs of professional divers working at great depths led to the development of the first 'ultra water resistant' tool watches designed for conducting safe diving operations at 300 m+ (1,000 ft+) depths. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000 (2000 ft = 610 m) that became available in 1967 was developed from the Submariner for the Comex S.A. industrial deep-sea diving company by increasing crystal thickness and was produced in several variations. It had a depth rating of 610 metres (2,000 ft) and its Rolex reference number was 1665. Most Sea-Dweller watches incorporate a helium escape valve for saturation diving. Early Sea-Dwellers did not always have the helium escape valve. The model is also distinguished by the absence of the date magnifier ("cyclops") present on most other Rolex models. The Sea-Dweller diving watch range has been standard issue for Comex divers since 1977. The Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000 watches had 2 red text lines on the watch dial which led to an unofficial "Double Red" designation under watch collectors for these watches. The Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000 models were succeeded by the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller 4000 (4000 ft = 1220 m) model with an increased depth rating to 1,220 metres (4,000 ft). The last Comex Sea-Dweller 4000 Rolex reference number is 16600 and this watch was issued to Comex divers since 1992. Several semi custom production runs of Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000 and 4000 models were produced with and without helium escape valves and differing watch dial patterns for the Comex S.A. company. These variants sometimes also had differing Rolex reference numbers. Some of these non standard Sea-Dweller watches had the Comex S.A. logo depicted on the watch dail which led to an unofficial "COMEX watches" designation under watch collectors for these watches. These watches were either issued to actual Comex staff members or served as gifts for business relations. At the BaselWorld watch and jewellery show 2008, Rolex introduced an updated Sea-Dweller model, named the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA. Its reference number is 116660. With an official depth rating of 3,900 metres (12,800 ft), the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA represented in its launch year the most water resistant mechanical watch in serial production. For obtaining this official depth rating the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA water resistance is tested to a depth of 4,875 metres (15,994 ft) to offer the 25% safety reserve required by the ISO 6425 divers' watches standard.[5] To test the water resistance of the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA, Rolex uses testing equipment developed for them by Comex. Normal surface air filled watch cases and crystals designed for extreme depths must be dimensionally large to cope with the encountered water pressure. To obtain its water resistance the Rolex Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA watch case has a diameter of 43.0 mm, thickness of 17.7 mm (domed crystal thickness 5.5 mm) and the case and bracelet weigh 220 g Standard features of rolex sea-dweller Waterproof to 1200 meters/4000 feet 40mm in diameter and 14.5 in thickness Ultra-thick synthetic sapphire crystal Unidirectional rotating bezel with a corrosion resistant anodized aluminum insert No date magnifier Helium escape valve which allows helium molecules to safely escape without popping the crystal off the watch during decompression Dive extension Triplock crown, the triplock system uses an additional rubber gasket (which is rather visible when the crown is unscrewed) beyond the triplock system used on many other rolex sport models like the old GMT Master 2 and explorer 2. Quick change and quick set date, quick change stand for the date will change over to the new day instantly at around midnight, quick set stand for the wearer can set the date while the crown is pulled out to the second position rather than having to change the time in order to change the date As sea dweller has a considerably water resistance of 4000ft, so it requires a thicker sapphire crystal to protect the dial and due to this reason, rolex gets rid of the use of Cyclops, actually my personally is more fond of the one without date cyclop, it looks cleaner and simpler. Because deep sea divers typically spend time in a decompression chamber, the Rolex Sea-Dweller employs an innovative solution to a unique problem discovered by COMEX divers back in the 1960's - helium pressure build up inside the watch case during decompression. Deep sea divers use a helium/oxygen mix in their air tanks while diving, and helium is also mixed into the air that divers breath during decompression (the amount of helium used in the mix is slowly reduced as their bodies are brought back to standard pressure levels while in a decompression chamber). Helium can permeate a watch crystal, and can build up pressure during decompression - early deep sea divers literally experience the crystal being blown right out of their watches as a result. Rolex solved this problem by integrating a helium escape valve into the Sea-Dweller case which will automatically release when pressure builds to a critical point. To accommodate the integrated valve, as well as the added reinforcement needed to enhance the Sea-Dweller depth rating, the case size of the Sea-Dweller is roughly 4mm thicker than that of the Submariner. The added thickness causes the Sea-Dweller to sit higher on the wrist than other Rolexes, and the watch feels noticeably heavier too. Like the Submariner, the Sea-Dweller also employs a dive suit extension link inside the Oyster bracelet clap which allows the bracelet size to be quickly and easily expanded to fit over a dive suit. The Sea-Dweller also shares the Rolex "Triplock" crown design feature. It's one of the keys to the amazing water resistance of the famous Rolex Oyster case. Not only is the screw down Triplock crown larger in size than the crown used on other non-dive watch Rolex watches, but it also employs special rubber gasket (visible in the picture below) which provides an added seal against water penetration inside the case. The Sea-Dweller is packaged a bit differently than the other sport models too. Included is a Rolex green leather wallet that holds a Buehlemann diving chart, additional dive suit links, and a marvelously handy link changing tool. The Rolex Reference 2100 double ended tool (screw driver on one side, fine adjustment pin on the other) is such a nice device for Oyster bracelet adjustment that I'm surprised (to a degree knowing Rolex's idiosyncrasies) that it isn't included with all Rolex watches. The 904L stainless steel Oyster bracelet is an object lesson in simplicity in design and functionality. The tapered links with their brushed finish give the Sea-Dweller a cosmetic appeal that is undeniable, yet also provide unprecedented durability. The Oyster on the Sea-Dweller was the first Rolex sport watch to receive the benefit of solid end links, which are not only more cosmetically pleasing, but also less noisy than the rattling hollow end links of the older style Oysters. Tough, comfortable, and easy on the eyes, the often copied Rolex Oyster bracelet has it's share of short comings, but there really is nothing quite like it. Inside the watch, Rolex has fitted the Sea-Dweller with the famous Rolex 3135 self-winding movement - the 31 jewel Rolex caliber (designed and manufactured entirely "in house" by Rolex) has been in service since 1989. The 3135 is a high-beat movement, and oscillates at 28,800 beats per hour (BPH). While I've written extensively on the 3135 in my other reviews, it is suffice to say that the in house designed and manufactured Rolex 3135 Movement is legendary for its accuracy (COSC certified) and robustness. The 3135's performance specifications make it an ideal match for the extreme demands that many deep sea divers will place upon the Sea-Dweller.
  16. Since the first rolex submariner debuted in 1953, first impression while mentioning about rolex is their iconic submariner that has never been surmounted during its fifty years of history. I believe not just me almost every watch fan are intrigued by submariner. Deep in my heart, no one particular watch ever found can take the place of sub that has caused such a great impact for the entire watch industry; no one diver watch ever found can reveal such beautiful charming like the sub does; no one particular diver watch ever found can attract the world’s attention just for a minor update or change. Each one submariner owner may have the feeling that it not just has powerful water resistance, accuracy, durability, and its outlook is timeless and everlasting, with great resale value that other watch brands can’t catch up with. Earliest Oyster water-resistant case was introduced in 1926, actually it was not the patent of rolex, but invented by two young German. While at the time when wristwatch was not prominent in horology, the two young German were willing to pay for the patent with a great amount of cash so to enjoy the profit brought by each sale of Oyster watch, we have to admit their older leader of rolex indeed have very insightful perspective. In 1927, Oyster case watch was published on The Times, the memorable female swimmer crossed English Channel with rolex watch attached had created a miracle showed the world how powerful reliable rolex water resistance was. Case diameter: 40mm Bezel: uni-direction with 60 indices (Cerachrom black ceramic bezel with platinum indices) Crown: triplock, adding a crown protection device – crown guard Water resistance: 300 meters Crystal: sapphire crystal, cyclop with anti-reflecting coating Dial: green dial/black dial Hands and marker: Chromalight luminescent material Bracelet: 904L stainless steel Type: Oyster bracelet Clasp: removable Rolex Glidelock Movement model: 3135 Date: instantaneous date Frequency: 4Hz (28800vph) Parachrom hairspring with Breguet overcoil COSC with 48 hours power reserve Submariner 6024, Produced between 1953-1956, cal.A260 movement, waterproof to 100 meters In 1953, rolex created the prototype of the historic classic sub: 6204. It already had the iconic appearance of today’s submariner have including the rotatable bezel and water-resistant case, but this wasn’t all rolex had improved, later added the already famous Mercedes hand in Bubble back time on 6200 in 1954, nothing but updated it into a slim version. So to speak, 6200 of the time was already very familiar with today’s submariner. From detailed, just only the differences on diameter measured 37mm and lack of shoulders. In 1955, 6536 emerged, on this sub, for the first time marked water resistance depth 100m on dial, which was truly an unbelievable water resistant number for divers watch at the time. Movement of this model also developed into the semi-open 1030 from the completely closed 260 in Bubble back times. 6200 first time applied with Mercedes hand, movement Cal.A296, waterproof 200m 5512 in 1959 was the real pioneer of modern submariner. Compared with previous models, rolex kept discovering problem in practice, so to improve the crown guard and use modern rolex classic COSC movement 1520. Later developments of sub have always adhered to the professional diver watches. As far as I’m concerned, due to the reason that divers and sporty watch were not the main products generalized at that time but slowly adjustment or exchange in the light of professional watch. So we can see 5513 to red rolex 1680 almost no updates or changes found basically. 5512, first time applied with crown guards, movement cal.1530(1570), waterproof 200m, COSC After 1980s, antique watches of rolex were crazily hyped by Italian and Japanese, from Bubble Back, Prince to later Daytona. Raise of Daytona brought a hot wave of sporty watches. 14060 launched in 1988 and later 16610 with date, both used newest 3xxx series movement and adopted never ever used sapphire crystal, which highly improved water resistance of sub, from early 200m to 300 meters, able to withstand higher water pressure and crueler external environment. By the way, I started liking rolex since this period. sub1680, movement cal.1575, waterproof 200m, COSC, first sub with date Let me be clear, though I’m in deeply love with rolex, I have to admit some entrenched weaknesses, like never updated steel spring buckle for decades, like not well connected bracelet always making some annoying noise, or like two impresses stressed out by long time use of the end links… all in all, we may inevitably feel regretful just for these tiny minor flaws. But this regret was finally compensated in 2008, a new gold sub was born, ceramic bezel improved the hand feeling, solid bracelet and solid end links and adjustable solid buckle, looks so elegant, attractive and impressive. But the price was way too high for me, gold version was not attainable for most of individuals and I’m one of these individuals… rolex green bezel, 16610LV After 57th birthday of submariner, rolex grandly release a totally new steel version: 116610LN Five improvements of new sub 1. Bezel material. Ceramic engraving and platinum filling makes the watch look more shinny and graceful. Shock-resistance and wear-resistance are stronger than early models. 2. Dial design. Hands and indices are used thicker design, let the watch more legible, adding a device to protect crown called crown guard, gasket wrapped on tube, under the iconic crown, highlighted three dots as a symbol of sporty watches, revised diameter to 39.5mm, adopted COSC cal.1570 movement. larger hands and indices 3. The appearance changes. Looks larger than previous models, arc of lug also changed with a thicker lug, better polishing and brushing 904Lsteel bracelet, rolex adjustable Glidelock links 4. The change of crown guard. New crown guard broadened and tougher, more solid and high class visually. Cerachrom black bezel, wider shoulders 5. Improvement in bracelet and clasp. Changed to solid end links, more sturdy and won’t cause impresses. Bracelet also changed to solid links and more comfortable in wear. beautiful thicker lugs, polished and brushed bracelet links
  17. considering whether i should get a leather strap to go with it, prefer leather strap it's more comfortable of wearing, bracelet is too heavy by some means, I'm not likely to be a sweaty person, so I assume wearing leather strap is ok in summer...
  18. I have been wondering whether should I write an article about Rolex which is being an awkward brand the same time, especially when involved in movement, the reason why I say awkward is because it after all is not a manufacturer specialized in producing movement, but I can’t resist the impulse to write something, while this impulse mainly come from three widespread sayings: 1. If only one wristwatch is allowed to purchase in whole lifetime, then it must be Rolex 2. If accuracy of Rolex movement only take second place in list, then no one dare to say they are the top one 3. Whether Rolex will develop complicated watch movement, is not just a topic watch fan care about, but also the breaking news for many top watch brands Have always been discussing about this brand with my friends, among these world famous watch brands, two brands worthy of mentioning most are PATEKPHILIPPE and ROLEX. The former one is recognized as the king in watch world, while value retention of later will definitely not fall behind the watch king. 700,000 pieces per year are provided around world market, but to my surprise, there are 700,000 amount of production, all of them can be sold out, like the hot sale model Daytona the situation reached up a higher level even though you would like to pay much higher the price for one but couldn’t find a piece available, which is definitely never happened in watch history. So in the regard, I guess even the watch king PATEK PHILIPPE will be jealous about. We usually make jokes: no matter people who are conversant with watch or not, Rolex has always been their first choice. That just makes me wondering: it’s just a simply wristwatch and can have such great sale record and keep this score for years, then it surely has superiorities that other brands don’t have. Then what are the advantages? The answer is quite simple- movement So today we will focus on Rolex movement, other information about Rolex please find anywhere to read about. Just like the beginning of this article, biggest advantage of Rolex making it keep prosperous to date is the stable, accurate and durable movement. Therefore, we are truly in dire need of taking a good at where are exactly the advantages of Rolex movement. Winding system: Occasionally read about the words regarding Rolex being the first movement factory to invent automatic winding system. I would say there must be some mistakes. As a matter of fact, truly first automatic movement like we seeing around today’s automatic movement is made by Harwood, while what Rolex did is just bought this already ripe automatic winding system. I have to admit Rolex indeed has the foresight in purchase. Funny thing is when the whole world was busy about developing their own automatic winding system whereas Rolex was focused attention on its own Oyster water-resistant case. So we can have the chance to see nowadays most famous two words on Rolex case “Perpetual” and “Oyster”. It is really not special for Rolex. While real winding advantage revealed in 1955 Rolex patent- red wheel system. Anyone who had experience of disassembling modern Rolex movement would see two special red wheels in movement, which is Rolex’s self-proudly patent- something metal material like aluminum alloy, surface coated on a special red coating. Whole winding system comprised of 7 components, rather easy to assemble and maintain. This bi-directional winding structure makes sure its normal functioning even when movement is out of repair for years or lack of regular oiled, that is why Rolex power reserve is longer meanwhile is also the reason why Rolex watch can drive the watch function with less movement. Super balance wheel: Balance wheel of Rolex is quite particular as well as its winding system - unique four balance arms and four tiny screws. Four balance arms have better stability than two, certainly, it requires higher standard for the machine that produces the wheel, good thing is Rolex did not hesitate to do that even with higher cost. Used Breguet hairspring on wheel, we all know, at nowadays, movement with Breguet hairspring can be counted as advanced movement already. It’s worth of noting that the four screws on inner surface of the wheel, this is the best useful weapon for fine adjustment. By adjusting one click to increase or decrease one second per day, that is what we hope to see. While only Rolex provide such balance wheel for us to adjust accuracy, speaking of accuracy, Rolex really makes us all dumbfounded. Remember once a watch fan did such an experiment: two Rolex Submariner are adjusted at exactly the same time, same hour, minute and second, then leave it on surface for 24 hours, guess what they have found? These two submariners were unexpectedly running the same time same hour, minute and second after 24 hours, what’s a miracle!!! Balance bridge: Maybe less people have noticed that original unilaterally contiguous bridge have utterly changed over to the bilaterally contiguous bridge since Cal.3130, do not belittle this subtle modification, for such wispy machinery like watch movement, very tiny vibration may cause big discrepancy. Note: before Audermas Piaget released Cal.3090 and Cal.3120, I guess Rolex is the only brand has such balance bridge. Instant date change: Early in 1945, Rolex has developed first wristwatch with date window for date display, and Cal.1560 released in 1960 equipped with its newly developed instant date change structure at 12 o’clock, while not all current date change was using this instant date change structure, in old date change pattern almost about 9pm, date wheel starts slow rotation, while result led by this is: around 11pm, due to date wheel happens to turn middle of two days, wearer can’t clearly read the current date. While instant date change just well solved this problem. By making full use of eccentric wheel and a drilled flat jewel realized date instant change at 12pm, so perfectly completed day’s alternation. Mainly wristwatches today provide instant date change function, but seem to have one common issue: if manually adjusting date between 9pm to 3am will cause date change inaccuracy. Fortunately, Rolex don’t have such problem, I have adjusted date during this time period on purpose and found no problem at all, this Rolex watch just went through date change still can correctly display date at second day. After getting known some advantages of Rolex movement, let see some famous movements in Rolex history. Cal.1030 Automatic winding Diameter: 28.5mm Height: 5.85mm Jewel No.: 25 Compensation balance Frequency: 18800vph Adjusted to five positions This is the quite older Rolex movement in Rolex history. Cal.1030 produced in 1950 is the first bi-directional automatic winding movement made by Rolex at that time. Adjusted to five positions, during that period without concept of COSC, adjusted to five positions is already somehow equal standard with COSC. Worthy of mentioning that before Cal.1030, there is another Rolex movement Cal.1000, but info. or record even can’t be found at Rolex’s database. Just like Cal.1000, Cal.1030 was the most popular 18000vph movement at the time as well as use of mono-metallic compensation balance and blue steel Breguet overcoil hairspring. Cal.1030 also features an unique rotor which is totally different with today’s, two prongs are hollowed on semi-circle, around the outer race engraved with word of “ROLEXPERPETUAL”, beneath is the word of “PATENTED” and the iconic patter of Rolex crown. By removing the rotor and upper plate, two big ratchet wheels are revealed, above Balance Bridge, is the noticeable regulator for adjustment. Most noted Rolex model equipped with this movement is Oyster Perpetual model Ref.6564 launched in 1956. Cal.1556 Automatic winding movement Diameter: 28.5mm Height: 7.0mm Jewel NO.: 26 Frequency: 19800vph Adjusted to five positions COSC standard Compared to Rolex Cal.3130, maybe the most famous Rolex movement should be Cal.1556. In 1965, Rolex launched this movement and immediately became the main ace of all Rolex movements, and installed in most expensive watch at the time - men’s gold Oyster. Cal. 1556 continues to use Rolex self-proudly bi-directional winding mechanism, meanwhile improved frequency from previously 18000vph to 19800vph, increased week and date configuration, also assembled red wheels, compensation balance, four balance arms and screws. Biggest distinction compared with previous Cal.1030 in appearance is the shape of rotor- rotor from Cal.1556 is already very close to our today’s Rolex rotor, also adjusted to 5 positions. Cal.3130 Automatic winding movement Diameter: 28.1mm Height: 6.3mm Jewel No.: 31 Frequency: 28800vph Adjusted to five postions COSC standard I have heard questions asked by my friends, what on earth is the difference among today’s AirKing, DayJust, Day-Date, GMT-Master and Submariner? I wanna say actually the biggest difference is not on movement. Cause in case of present Cal.31 series movement, Cal.3130 no doubt offers a best development platform, by adding date function so to form a new movement of Cal.3135, by adding date and week so to form the Cal.3185, and increasing a GMT function is the current Cal.3185, these transformed movements have made up the current strongest Rolex movement lineup. Officially released in 2001, Cal. 3130 is the main force of modern Rolex movements, having most basic function of hour, minute and second is powered by the 31J movement, on Cal.3130, Rolex applies with most advanced balance wheel with new four balance arms and screws, along with a Breguet overcoil hairspring that is secured by a full balance bridge, all these features prompt Cal.3130 to be the world most accurate and durable basic three-hand movement. Also many people said Cal.3130 is not the best, cause Cal.3130 installed in AirKing even didn’t pass through COSC, but for more cautious people will find that apart from AirKing, others like Explorer I Ref.114270 also having this movement installed, moreover, on this watch you can see big words of “superlative chronometer officially certified” on dial, therefore, problem solved: Cal.3130 is assuredly qualified by COSC. Meanwhile, Cal.3130 is full of extensibility and re-development ability. Thus we can find aside from the chronograph Daytona and artistic series Cellin, all Rolex series are applied with Cal.3130 or movement developed based on Cal.3130. Cal.4130 Automatic winding movement Diameter: 30.5mm Height: 6.5mm Jewel No.: 44 Frequency: 28800vph Adjusted to five positions COSC standard Chronograph watch can be called as the most complicated models in Rolex, however, special designed Cal.4130 undisputedly become the new most complex movement in all Rolex family. Speaking of the launch of Cal.4130, the story might be a little admirable: entirely designed and manufactured by Rolex really gives all watchmakers a great shock- so powerful self-produced chronograph movement, without any flaws found. Launched the same year with Cal.3130, Cal.4130 was planned originally by Rolex to replace Cal.4030 movement. New Cal.4130 keeps all strengths of olders, in addition, reinforces the device structure regarding chronograph. Calibre 4130’s performance stems particularly from the use of a vertical – instead of lateral – clutch to activate the chronograph. This new solution functions on the principle of two discs, one above the other, which work together by direct friction contact and offer significant advantages – extremely precise starting and stopping of the perfectly smooth running chronograph seconds hand as soon as the pusher is pressed; and the capacity of the chronograph to function for long periods of time with no negative impact on the precision of the watch. Cal.650/Cal.651 Manually winding movement Diameter: 20.8mm Height: 1.75mm Jewel NO.: 18 Frequency: 18000vph (Cal.650)/21600vph (Cal.651) Adjusted to five positions Folks always dwell upon dimension of Rolex with great relish. No matter the early Cal.1030, Cal.1556, or today’s Cal.3130, Cal.4130, you can invariably find the trace of some Rolex movement which are installed in Rolex artistic series – the Cellini, and also takes a significant spot being the only existed ultrathin movement in Rolex product line, while Cal.650/Cal.651 is one of these members. Developed in 1960, with thickness of 1.75mm, Cal.650 resembles with Cal.21 of Frederic Piguet, a manually winding movement with 18j. Compensation balance wheel, blue steel Breguet overcoil hairspring, 18800vph low frequency, the later upgraded version of Cal.651, has made a new improvement to adjust to five positions, though had not sent to COSC use, but as a matter of fact, it does can meet up with the standard of COSC. Same dimension between these two, but frequency changed over to 21600vph, and Cal.651 movement majorly are installed the ultrathin Midas series which is no longer in production by these days, certainly, there still a small amount of them are installed in average Cellini watches. Cal.1601 Manually winding movement Diameter: 20.8mm Height: 2.3mm Jewel NO.: 19 Frequency: 19800vph Adjusted to four positions Cal.1601 is similarly the entirely developed and manufactured ultrathin movement by Rolex, also installed in the artistic Cellini series. Cal.1601 is the upgrade edition of Cal.1600, produced about around 1970, compared with Cal.1600, 1601 offering frequency of 19800vph and a moveable hairspring stud holder, 19J, and the others almost same as 1600. Practically, reform and renewal speed of Rolex ultrathin movement is much slower than other Rolex movements, like today’s most Cellini watches are still using manually winding movement which are considered lack of modern sense. But just like Cal.1601, self-develop and produced ultrathin movement born durable, never heard of someone said its inherent defects, so such movement can easily survive for at least 50 years in near future.
  19. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman watch Rolex started to release its chronograph watches since 1937 by using Valjoux movement, but it didn’t cause great market impact also sales was not hopeful at the time and even the later extended decade years. In 1960, Rolex redesigned its chronograph and changed over its name as Oyster Cosmograph Daytona (ref.6239, used Valjoux movement), most significant difference in appearance is directly imprinting tachymeter onto the outermost circle on bezel rather than the conventional way of on dial. Cosmograph inherited varieties complex functions of modern professional sporty watches, including oyster water-proof design, integral chronograph movement, oyster deployment buckle and the instantly readable average lap speed design on bezel, so the speculation among racers immediately goes viral, thus Rolex named this series as Cosmograph Daytona on basis of the racing resort in Florida - the Daytona Beach. Another more credible version of the derivation of Daytona is: when the time assembled Oyster Cosmograph chronograph was exactly the opening of American Daytona racing event, so Rolex decided sending out Cosmograph to rival the designation of appointed timing instrument and so acquired the selection, therefore for commemorating this achievement Rolex named the series as Daytona. Early Rolex Cosmograph Daytona all have the special color which is also the Exotic dial we called by these days: white dial with three black subdials, or black dial with three white subdial, moreover the markers inside the subdials are pretty noticeable by the square marks. Features of later chronograph watches different with modern Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona also contains: manually winding movement (1988 ref.16520, used EL Primero automatic movement of Zenith), stainless steel non-Oystercase, non-screw-down pushers (later 6263 and 6265 both used screw down pushers), and crown is also not the same triplock crown as later’s. All the Daytona watches with these features are called as Paul Newman watches, collectable value is way higher than later models. Therefore, we can always see someone claims only ref.6239 and ref.6241 is the lineal Daytona Paul Newman. The reason why Daytona with Exotic dial is called Daytona Paul Newman, the saying still varies on different opinions to date. Most romantic and widespread discourse is that Paul Newman starred in the movie Winning in 1969 wearing Rolex Daytona (Paul Newman). However, writer of “the best of time: Rolex Wristwatches” Dowling and Hess had a different statement that: Paul Newman didn’t wear Daytona, but the name attributed to a film poster that Paul Newman wearing Daytona, once the poster was out, firstly got the attention of Italy watch fans and ending up with a snag up of this model, afterwards carried on a worldwide Daytona fever. More interesting thing: Paul Newman has never officially admitted or negated these rumors, after all, these rumors made this story full of mystery and attraction. By all possible means, one thing for sure is that Paul Newman indeed was truly in love with Rolex Daytona, and used to wear Daytona on numerous occasions. Countless stars on this planet, however, how many of them can really create this much told story like the way of Paul Newman and Rolex Daytona did? Topic back to the Cosmograph Daytona watch itself, even though Rolex already have the ability to produce self-made movement, the 1988 facelift launched Daytona Ref.16520 somehow used the industry-famous EL Primero chronograph movement produced by Zenith. In order to achieve a more stable and precise chronograph performance, Rolex particularly changed the EL Primero movement of originally oscillation by 36000 vph to 28800 vph, and sales and expert evaluation of future market also confirmed that Rolex’s unique foresight for marvelous movement and their unique fine tuning capability, and by the way, Ref. 16520 was extremely popular, especially after 1990s, sporty watch was on the rise around the worldwide, with more intense sporty feeling and speedy model of Rolex, Daytona 16520 had become one of the minions and caused an irresistible hot wind of panic buying. Even at 2000, Rolex released a new redesigned the successor model of Ref.116520 by using self-made Caliber 4130 movement, the buying wave was still eagerly gone up among watch fans, has formed up a never ever happened grand situation that the new watch model Ref.116520 was barely to get even simply a piece, especially stainless steel version. New come out Daytona 6239 in 1970, can not be regarded as best-selling watches though, and later launched 6263 and 6265 in 1976 also faced up a slowly sale score. These elaborately decorated Valjoux72 watch, features a militant look and exceptionally reliable to use, but only when it’s on sale, people are willing to spend money on. By analysis the reasons, guessing the main problem should be ascribed to the emergence of quartz and automatic watches. People who bought the watch didn’t have the patience to manually wind it day by day. However, Rolex did not mean standing still. Just right about the same year, automatic Daytona was exhibited in display window at Basel. Models respective are 16520, 16523 and 16528 (a different case material), all applied with 4030 movement and further improved water resistance up to 100 meters. 4030 came from Zenith’s EL Primero movement which has begun to re-production in 1986, but the high quality EL Primero movement at that time still did not get too much satisfaction of Rolex。 Firstly, as far as the Rolex artificer was concerned, 36000vph balance wheel was way too high, so accuracy of 1/10 second chronograph may not be successfully indicated at the small watch dial. Secondly, the infamous rumor about the imperfect date display and also the placement lead an aesthetic compromise on vision. So resulted in a thorough makeover of 400 movements by Rolex artificers, the final product only were reserved less than half of Zenith components. Biggest improvement was naturally the train wheels, oscillation of balance wheel slowed to 28800 vph. Although the second hand ran a click per 1/8 second on this new watch, outermost indices still have set up 5 frames per second, in favor of people’s usual view way. For other aspects, Rolex also made a great effort on, some Rolex commonly used and proven to be as quite reliable device were installed in 4030 movement. Changed hairspring to particular Breguet hairspring, 4 Microstella screws were fixed at inside edge of balance wheel to accord with time. Diameter of balance wheel was slight larger than original Zenith’s, outer end of hairspring clamped in a triangular pin to protect end of hairspring stay where it’s. Other improvements include the iconic alloy Rolex rotor, polished and brushed screws and so on. Smart watch fans rapidly felt its charm. At an extended period since its release, it has always been in high market demand especially in mid-early 1990. The stainless steel version 16520, we can often see some fans would like to spend twice the price to purchase one. Persisted in self-producing movement, somehow used other factory’s work. No matter how thoroughly they changed the movement, just can’t get rid of the shadow of Zenith. In the history of more than 80 years of watch making experience, Rolex has been using other company’s movement, only one exception, the Zerograph watch made in 1938 (model 3346), which can’t find the regular subdials at this watch, second hand also not like other chronograph watches staying at a certain index. But due to its rareness (only one or two were made), its value can reach up to 40,000 or 50,000 dollars. New chapter of Daytona should begin in 2000. Early before this time, rumors of Rolex will finally produce its own movement has been spread for ages. But as usual, Rolex keeps silence on rumors neither denied nor affirmed. Difference between 16520 and 116520 Dial difference: subdials at 6 and 9 position are exact the opposite way on two models, hour indices and hands are in different thickness. Case difference: lug polish is better and sheen, solid bracelet links, looks higher quality, particular the mid row, solid design makes it less chance to wear out. A 16520 weighs 125.95g, whilst the 116520 weights 142.68g, the 16.73g difference is the weight of mid link, but taking turns by these two watches, due to the improvements of the 116520 clasp, the extra weight won’t cause any discomfort. Clasp difference: from the appearance, the new clasp has a better feel of integration, especially after removing the gap of end link, makes it look more coherent. Movement difference: is the first Daytona to use Rolex self-made movement, using its own 4130 movement rather than applying with the reformed Zenith 4030, which can be regarded as the biggest step forward of new Daytona, 116520 is truly a watch entirely made by Rolex, somehow we can say it do has compensated the regret 16520 had (using other company’s movement).
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